U-joint yoke removal from tp gearcase

[MotorheadTed]

According to my VP 280/duoprop manual ( I have a DP-C2, but can't find a manuall for that) all I should have to do to separate the yoke from the upper gear housing is to remove the 4 allen head bolts that hold the clamp ring to the housing, and remove the shift mech/cover. Done that, yoke and clamp ring are loose, but only move out a few thousanths. don't want to force it, what am I missing ?

 

[billbayliner]

Re: U-joint yoke removal from tp gearcase

Ted, which transmission do you have? You say 280, but also mention DP-C2.

Give this a read;

The A and later transmissions will use the integral bearing box/clamping collar.
It is all one piece similar to this (seq # 12).

The 270/280 style uses a steel BB (also seq #12 here) and separate aluminum clamping collar (seq # 35).

Be sure to use heat (to help with corrosion) on the main gear case housing when removing the four bolts.

Once the four bolts are out, we should be able to remove the entire BB and main drive gear out forward from the gear case.
We then loosen the aft-most cap screw from the male yoke in order to pull the universal joint assembly from the main drive gear.

The 270/280/285/275 etc is shim control for the BB rolling torque. If the seal surface washer is replaced, the rolling torque value must be re-set.
The A transmission and later will use a crush sleeve rolling torque control.
You'll want to use the correct re-assembly procedure for the transmission model.

For V-8 power, you may want to remove the gear from the BB and look at the bearing condition.
Many of the V-8 transmissions with some time on them, will be in need of main drive gear bearing replacement.




Ted, if you have gotten this far and the yoke does not want to come out of the gear, you'll want to use mild force on it. Might be a small bur or a twist in the splines. Try a brass punch but with light blows.
There should be nothing keeping it from coming out.

 

[MotorheadTed]

Re: U-joint yoke removal from tp gearcase

Hi Bill, thanks for the reply. I have a DP-C 2 duoprop. The manual I have (factory) is labeled "Aquamatic 280 / Duoprop" and its printed in 1983, so it's not quite correct for my 1992 drive, but close, the diagrams in it match the lower drawing in your post.
My drive matches the upper( larger) drawing, with the tapered top cover and the "backward slanting" shift cover.
What is the "BB" you refer to ? THe bearing housing ?

 

[billbayliner]

Re: U-joint yoke removal from tp gearcase

yes BB is Bearing Box or the main drive gear bearing housing.

Ted, are you having trouble removing the male yoke from the main drive gear?
As said there should be nothing keeping it from coming out unless the splines are twisted or there is a bur somewhere.

You'll need the right OEM manual for the DP-C2 drive.
Don can point you in the right direction for a down load.

 

[MotorheadTed]

Re: U-joint yoke removal from tp gearcase

Success !!!!!!
The secret is 2 whacks to the clamp ring (on the angled part where the steering pin goes) with a dead-blow hammer. The O ring on the bearing housing was holding it. If a manual doesn't say to use force or a special tool, and I not familar with what I'm working on, I'm very hesitant to use force, and only do so after reviewing all info available to me to make sure I'm not missing something.
Bill: re: proper manual; I tried to download one from 4share on this site. Wouldn't work, Screen came up " navigation to this page cancelled" .
I started a thread on this forum, no replies yet.
Thanks for your help.
Ted

 

[billbayliner]

Re: U-joint yoke removal from tp gearcase

Ted, I thought that you were having trouble removing the yoke from the gear. It now sounds like you were having trouble removing the BB.
Once you find the correct manual and specs, the yoke will be reinstalled and the rolling torque will be checked and set.

There is a spec for "run in" bearings which means used bearings. If you don't replace the 2 bearings that is the spec you'll use.
The manual will suggest a new crush sleeve, but you can give the old sleeve a try by torqing the bolt down, and check the rolling torque.
It may come in at the right value.