update on problem with 1995 9.9hp no full throttle

jrdplowing

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Aug 28, 2011
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latest on this motor problem is, tried new coil no difference,checked spark plug wires,OK, took out for test run and found that i can touch 1 of the spark plugs, they are both hot but lower cylinder is cooler,and found that if i close the choke there is one sweet spot that the motor will run full throttle, iam not shure about the mixture screw on this motor thou,is screwing it in lean or rich,any help would be greatly appreciated,
 

OptsyEagle

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Re: update on problem with 1995 9.9hp no full throttle

Part of your post indicates a non-firing cylinder and the other part wants to lead a person to a carb problem. Remember, your carb feeds both cylinders so if you had only a carb problem, why would the bottom cylinder be cooler? If you problem isn't the carb, why does choking it seem to help. See what I mean.

Anyway, did you ever try my test of running it at a fast idle and pulling one spark plug boot at a time (with insulated pliers) to determine if both cylinders are actually running? These motors will run very well on only one spark plug, but of course you will not get any top end power. If the motor dies when you pull a plug boot you then would know that the other cylinder was never firing or was very weak.

As for the choking the motor. Choking a motor will enrich the motor. Usually choking a warmed up motor will kill it so if it makes it work better then most likely you have some crud in the main jet of the carburetor, leaning out your gas to air mixture.
 

jrdplowing

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Re: update on problem with 1995 9.9hp no full throttle

thanks iam going to go thru with your test sequence for the the cylinder fireing,and then possibly rebuild the carb,but i have already compleatly disasembled the carb and cleaned and blew out with compresed air, and reset float drop and level,do you know if turning in mix screw is lean or richening on this motor, or could there be a problem with the reed plates, thanks
 

OptsyEagle

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Re: update on problem with 1995 9.9hp no full throttle

The mixture screw on your motor will only adjust your slow speed jet on your carb. The slow speed jet is basically used for idling and trolling speeds. Clockwise turning will reduce the gas to air ratio providing a leaner mixture and counter-clockwise will increase the gas to air ratio, providing a richer mixture to the cylinders. As you may know, there is an optimum balance of gas to air that creates the best combustion. When you are sure the motor is operating properly you can simply warm up the motor and bring it to a slow idle in neutral. Slowly turn in the mixture knob clockwise about 1/8th of a turn. Give the motor about 10 seconds to respond. If the idle RPMs increase, reduce the throttle back to a slow idle and turn the knob in another 1/8th of a turn. Keep doing this until the motor sneezes, coughs and wants to stall. At that point, turn the knob counter-clockwise 1/4 turn and leave it there for good. You can reset the knob so that it points 1/2 way between rich and lean. Your slow speed jet is now set.

In any event, if you are having problems at the top end it is unlikely that the carb's mixture knob will have any effect. It could be other things to do with the carb but personally I would do that easy test I suggested before I did the harder job of cleaning a carb, probably to find out later my carb was fine. If you have an external spark tester, it would be good to know if each cylinder's ignition can jump a minimum of a 3/8" gap. If you have a compression tester, knowing the cylinders compression would also be very valuable. If you don't have either, at least confirm if both cylinders are running.

It is rare that the reeds create problems but if they do you will most likely see it in the single cylinder test I suggested. If you are only running on one cylinder, don't waste your time cleaning the carb. The carb feeds both cylinders so either your motor will be working fine or both cylinders would be acting up or dead.
 

OptsyEagle

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Re: update on problem with 1995 9.9hp no full throttle

I will add one more test. If you pull a spark plug boot and the motor dies, confirming that the other cylinder was not firing or was weak, do one more test. Switch the spark plug boots to the alternate spark plugs and also switch the clips that also connect those coils to the flywheel wires and run the single cylinder test again. What you want to know is if the problem cylinder stayed where it was or if the problem has now moved to the other cylinder. This information will allow you to rule out or confirm the coils as the culprit.
 
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