continued from here:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=235510
I finally got some free time to start working on this again. I was able to get the two old seals out and put in the new ones with no trouble. I did notice that the two old oil seals were both installed with the spring facing the top of the drive. The manual states that the bottom one should face down, and top one should face up. Maybe this was part of the reason for the leak?
This is the orientation of the two old seals relative to each other.
Next, I replaced the yoke seal and found out that there was indeed a groove worn into the yoke. Ordered a new yoke, nut, tension washer, and u-joint. I pounded out the old seal, and pressed in the new one as per the manual. that old one was a bugger to get out, there was some blue glue holing it in (loctite maybe?)
I put the drive shaft back together (yes, with the worn yoke) to get a feel for setting the rolling torque. I overtightened the locknut which caused the rolling torque to jump to 10 in-lb. I did check it before taking anything apart and verified it was 5.25in-lb.
I think the next step (after the new yoke and other parts arrive) is to press the bearings from the gear, reassemble, and not tighten the lock nut as much.
Hopefully by the first weekend in April the whole thing will be reassembled and leak free.
In addition to the new parts I also ordered the two gear shimming tools to check the position of the drive and driven gear in the upper. For $100, it's much cheaper to check and make sure the gears are spaced properly than it would be to replace them...
Ryan
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=235510
I finally got some free time to start working on this again. I was able to get the two old seals out and put in the new ones with no trouble. I did notice that the two old oil seals were both installed with the spring facing the top of the drive. The manual states that the bottom one should face down, and top one should face up. Maybe this was part of the reason for the leak?
This is the orientation of the two old seals relative to each other.
Next, I replaced the yoke seal and found out that there was indeed a groove worn into the yoke. Ordered a new yoke, nut, tension washer, and u-joint. I pounded out the old seal, and pressed in the new one as per the manual. that old one was a bugger to get out, there was some blue glue holing it in (loctite maybe?)
I put the drive shaft back together (yes, with the worn yoke) to get a feel for setting the rolling torque. I overtightened the locknut which caused the rolling torque to jump to 10 in-lb. I did check it before taking anything apart and verified it was 5.25in-lb.
I think the next step (after the new yoke and other parts arrive) is to press the bearings from the gear, reassemble, and not tighten the lock nut as much.
Hopefully by the first weekend in April the whole thing will be reassembled and leak free.
In addition to the new parts I also ordered the two gear shimming tools to check the position of the drive and driven gear in the upper. For $100, it's much cheaper to check and make sure the gears are spaced properly than it would be to replace them...
Ryan
