used boat purchase question(s)

[alandchris]

2005 bayliner 18' bowrider 3.0 merc I/O
wants 8k for it - boat and trailer
primarily used in freshwater
always trailered
no bottom paint
pretty clean looking boat
has between 200 - 250 hrs (they guess) on motor - apparently no hour meter on boat
supposedly maintenance done each year

i see nada is retail about 8k - 9k (no trailer)
questions are: is it almost the time for the change of exhause mans and risers?
if so about ? cost to replace them
boat's registration is not in effect, technically can't take a test run - how can i get comfortable with the motor if can't test drive - is it safe to see how the engine runs and throttles and shifts with a hose on the outdrive ?

thx for any advice.

 

[wifisher]

Re: used boat purchase question(s)

If you can't drive it, don't buy it. The NADA price is RETAIL, not private party. If you are buying it from a private party, I would consider a fair price to be about 50%-70% of retail. And that includes the trailer. I also would be skeptical of any hour estimate without a meter. (Don't trust the meter 100% either) Just my opinion. Worth exactly what you paid for it.

 

[haley]

Re: used boat purchase question(s)

I just went through this. Looked at a lot of boats. Ended up with something I never knew existed but met most of my needs (remember, any boat will be a compromise). A few thoughts:

I used eBay to get an idea on value. That is a very popular boat you mention. Search on eBay. If you have an eBay account you can see completed auctions and see what real people are actually paying for that boat.

Boat US offers a free valuation service on their website. I used this too. Usually lower than eBay market value.

To me a trailer is expected for a trailer size boat - no extra increase in value. Without a trailer is a big decrease for me. To many headaches. If the seller gripes, call the local Bayliner Dealer. I am pretty sure the sell the 175 and 185 with a trailer as a package.

I had the owner do a "compression test" on the motor. It involves pulling the a plug, attaching the gauge and starting the engine. Usually I would ask if they had a trusted mechanic that I could pay to do this. If they do not have a trusted mechanic that sends a message right there. The appropriate readings on the gauge differ but all cylinders on same motor should be close.

I asked for a sea trial. The seller replied that he had six other callers interested in the boat. I offered $100 to do the sea trial. He countered that it had to be right away. We did it and we were both happy. That $100 is cheap insurance. I highly recommend a sea trial. With that said I was boat shopping through the winter. A sea trial would just not be possible up here. So I was leaning on the compression test and an inspection by a mechanic. I paid to have this done for two boats that I walked away from.

Both sea trial and mechanic inspection were after an offer was agreed upon. I made it clear that I was not trying to nickel and dime him. If something was found that was small, that is part of the joys of boat ownership. Something big was a walk away.

I used www.craiglook.com to search local craiglists across the country. Great for seeing what other people are trying to sell that model for.

If it was a dealer I asked about a warranty. Several offered 30 days from purchase. One offered 30 days from launch or Memorial Day, whichever came first.

Hope some of this helps.

 

[cr2k]

Re: used boat purchase question(s)

After the very cold winter we have just had you need to run on hose at the very least, look for any exterior leaks (freeze damage). Check the oil noting the level and color before and after you run the boat. If oil level rises or turns milky; Run away. Should be NO shaking or noise from the transom area (gimbal/u-joints) or the drive. Also pull the bottom plug to inspect the drive oil (before running) if any water comes out may have problems or just need reseal. If seller balks at any further inspection run like hell. The only person who will lie more than a fisherman is someone selling a boat.

Re: others coming to look, hey they probably want to know the same as you anyway.
The price is on the high side unless it is pristine. Bayliners are entry level boats not high end that demand higher prices. As far as trailer goes, Bayliner trailers are not great quality anyway so don't let them tell you it adds value.

Whatever boat you buy you need to replace the impeller at a minimum, regardless of what they tell you. The middle of the lake is not the place to find out that was a lie too.

Hours mean nothing, maintenance is everything. Was it winterized and can he prove it???

 

[sschefer]

Re: used boat purchase question(s)

Here's the right way to go about it. Have it surveyed by a pro. If it comes up clean all the way to the title then make an offer you feel is fair. The survey will run you a couple of hundred bucks and that's cheap compared to buying a messed up boat.

If you can't make a deal, see if they wan't to buy the survey report. A real honest seller would likely appreciate you offering it. I had a buyer do that to me then realize that the boat was worth more than I was asking. He didn't have the money but offered me the survey so I paid for it.

Just do it, don't become a member of the "Bring On Another Thousand" club

 

[scooper77515]

Re: used boat purchase question(s)

you probably wouldn't be happy with a 3.0 on an 18' boat. Mine is 4.7 and wishing I had 5.0

 

[emoney]

Re: used boat purchase question(s)

I'm gonna agree with most, and say, DO NOT BUY THAT BOAT IF YOU CAN'T TEST DRIVE IT. The fact that a)it's not registered and b)they can only "guesstimate" how many hours on a boat that's only a few years old seems very odd. It can run great on the muffs, and then shut down own you as soon as you get away from the ramp, after you've handed over the cold,hard cash. Now, in defense of the owner, I'd never ask for a water test until I was all but ready to fork over the dough, because otherwise it's a "joy-ride" and nobody's got time for that. Plus, there's lots and lots of 8K boats out there, so you don't have to feel any pressure whatsoever. If he does the, "I've got somebody else..." routine, then congratulate him and hang up. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[jkust]

Re: used boat purchase question(s)

That is my favorite line of all time. I have several people coming to look at it. Even the car dealer tried pulling that one on me this winter when I bought another tow vehicle. It was 20 below and nobody was out yet he had 4 "appointments". My only thoughts to offer on all of the above is that here in Minnesota the NADA numbers are wishfull thinking on crack in bizaroland. Nobody is going to sell their boat for NADA generally speaking. The numbers are so low they simply don't make sense in the real world in MN. I don't know how things are in NJ but I do know that cars are much cheaper there than here. I will also second the fact that running on muffs can mask substantial issues that a nice long water trial can reveal. You also say "apparently no hour meter on boat". If and when you fully speak the language of boats you will laugh that you said apparently. Of course there is no hour meter on that most-basic-rig-money-can-buy-bowrider. Nowdays many even cheepo boats come with them but in 05, you need to go premium brand down to some mid level models to get an hour meter.

 

[Chris1956]

Re: used boat purchase question(s)

If it was used in fresh water the risers and manifolds are probably still fine. I got 8-10 years out of mine in saltwater, and I never flushed it. Do run it and check the oil as was suggested. You are primarily looking for improper winterization. I don't think that is a bad price, however, since it cannot be test driven, I think you deserve some consideration. Test compression on each cylinder and have a look at the gear oil. if the gear oil is clear, and the compression is good and everything else checks out, you might offer them a lower price and see what happens. My 1988 Alpha 1 outdrive lasted until I got rid of the boat in Dec 2006, and I used the heck out of it. My neighbors 1993 Alpha I outdrive went bad by 2000, and he only used it 2-3 times per year.

 

[444]

Re: used boat purchase question(s)

you probably wouldn't be happy with a 3.0 on an 18' boat. Mine is 4.7 and wishing I had 5.0

That's what I was thinking too. A 3.0 is rated at what, 130hp? That's not much power for an 18' bowrider once you fill it up with fuel and people.