pcrussell50
Petty Officer 1st Class
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2008
- Messages
- 296
just going through this engine i bought before i put her into service. pretty much doing the "awakening a sleeping outboard" in the FAQ here.
the motor is a '78 or newer v4 crossflow. the reason i don't know for sure, is it was cobbled together by a performance shop somewhere in the minneapolis area. i just know that it has the '78 and newer gearcase, based on the raked skeg shape, [i also have a '75 135hp for reference], and the tilt/trim setup with the dual-ram trim, and separate motor and reservoir. there are wiseco piston stickers around it, and i was told it was originally a 115, but that it was built by the shop to 140hp specs. i have no way of verifying this except that there is at least a "bubbleback" on it, which the 140's had and the 115's of the era did not, as far as i know. [later on, when prop rating began, 115hp was the top dog, and it had the bubbleback]. it is not so new that it has a primer solenoid though. it still has a good old fashioned choke.
anyway, i fired her up for the first time, this morning and she fired right up, even on year-old fuel. there must be sta-bil in it or something. BUT after nearly 5 minutes of running time, the strong telltale stream was still cool. on my yamaha 40, it becomes at least lukewarm in just a couple of minutes. so i felt around the heads with my [finely calibrated instrument], hands and they fell hotter than i was used to, but by no means, too hot to touch.
the odds that both thermostats are bad seem slim to me, yet if even one was opening, i'd have thought the telltale water would be a little warm. it is possible that it just simply was not warm enough to open them idling in the driveway on muffs?
i am certainly going to try "pour hot water down the tubes" trick in the FAQ. but i also just realized that i have a nice infra-red temperature gun that i could try on the heads. what temp should i see as "normal", idling on muffs, and when should i shut her down, due to heat worries?
-peter
the motor is a '78 or newer v4 crossflow. the reason i don't know for sure, is it was cobbled together by a performance shop somewhere in the minneapolis area. i just know that it has the '78 and newer gearcase, based on the raked skeg shape, [i also have a '75 135hp for reference], and the tilt/trim setup with the dual-ram trim, and separate motor and reservoir. there are wiseco piston stickers around it, and i was told it was originally a 115, but that it was built by the shop to 140hp specs. i have no way of verifying this except that there is at least a "bubbleback" on it, which the 140's had and the 115's of the era did not, as far as i know. [later on, when prop rating began, 115hp was the top dog, and it had the bubbleback]. it is not so new that it has a primer solenoid though. it still has a good old fashioned choke.
anyway, i fired her up for the first time, this morning and she fired right up, even on year-old fuel. there must be sta-bil in it or something. BUT after nearly 5 minutes of running time, the strong telltale stream was still cool. on my yamaha 40, it becomes at least lukewarm in just a couple of minutes. so i felt around the heads with my [finely calibrated instrument], hands and they fell hotter than i was used to, but by no means, too hot to touch.
the odds that both thermostats are bad seem slim to me, yet if even one was opening, i'd have thought the telltale water would be a little warm. it is possible that it just simply was not warm enough to open them idling in the driveway on muffs?
i am certainly going to try "pour hot water down the tubes" trick in the FAQ. but i also just realized that i have a nice infra-red temperature gun that i could try on the heads. what temp should i see as "normal", idling on muffs, and when should i shut her down, due to heat worries?
-peter
