Volvo AQ130 ballast resistor question

[elv_1986]

In my workshop manual the wiring diagram for my AQ130 shows only one wire from the ignition switch, through a ballast resistor to the coil.

Should there not be two wires? One from the run position on the switch, through the ballast resistor and to the coil feeding 9v for running, then another from the start position on the switch directly to the coil feeding 12v for easier starting?

Thanks,
Louis

 

[Bondo]

Re: Volvo AQ130 ballast resistor question

then another from the start position on the switch directly to the coil feeding 12v for easier starting?

Ayuh,.... That wire usually comes directly from the Starter, 'n is only Hot, when the starter is engaged...

 

[Don S]

Re: Volvo AQ130 ballast resistor question

My guess is Volvo didn't use another wire. Engines that did use the hot start wire did not have the wire coming from the switch, that is only for the starter. It typically came from the I terminal on the starter solenoid (if it has one) and went to the + terminal on the coil.

 

[elv_1986]

Re: Volvo AQ130 ballast resistor question

hmmm, it looks like it shouldnt have one then.

Is there anyone with a AQ130 who could clarify this?

 

[sqbtr]

Re: Volvo AQ130 ballast resistor question

I can only say my AQ130D did not have the bypass wire hooked up originally. I have since changed to an internally resisted coil, electronic ign, Delco 10Si marine alt, did away with the ammeter and used that circuit for more helm power.

130's are loaded with obsolete technology, but, are easily updated to todays standards.

 

[dennis461]

Re: Volvo AQ130 ballast resistor question

A more approriate question would be...
Do I need a ballast resistor bypass on MY boat.
These boats are getting old, passed around, resold.
The wiring is probably different from the new condition.
If you have a good starting boat for your location (warm weather versus Oregon)
Use a ballast resistor, do not use a bypass during starting.
The original boat may have had a bypass, as my starter which appears original, has the extra trerminal.
These boats had simple wiring, so I doubt very much the ignition switch was used for a bypass, you'd need an extra relay in the circuit.

BUT

Euopean wiring was different from USA wiring.
The bypass terminal may have been used in Europe, but not here.

When I bought my boat, it had no bypass, no ballast resistor, and burned out points each time I took it out.
It now has a resistor, no bypass, and starts fine.

Good Luck

 

[elv_1986]

Re: Volvo AQ130 ballast resistor question

My wiring is brand new, I have just completed a full rewire following my Seloc manual so we should be okay there. The distributors have been refurbed too with new advance springs, points, condensers, rotas and caps.

* I have upgraded to a delco 7si alternator too, which I am hoping will be better than the original.

If you were burning out points with no resistor then it must be designed for a 9 volt feed. My wiring diagram actually shows the one wire with the resistor in the line so I only have 9v at the coil.

I should add, I'm in the UK. I also have the terminal on my starter but there was no wire on it when I ripped out the remains of the old wiring?