TL : DR - I’m rebuilding a VP 5.0GL-C and am looking for tips/tricks/recommendations from folks who have done it before. Mostly I’m wondering what parts HAVE to be the proper “marine” versions, and which parts it’s OK to use the automotive equivalent of.
Full story - I suffered a valve strike in the #2 cylinder last season due to water intrusion from a bad exhaust manifold riser. I pulled the heads and sent them to a machine shop with the hope of just getting away with a top end rebuild but decided to pull the whole thing since it’s been sitting for almost a year now and the bores need to be honed. I also figured it’ll give me a chance to inspect the lower end to make sure the valve strike didn’t cause damage to the rod or bearings. Since I’ll have it out I figure I should replace most of the trouble spots. Here’s my plan so far, let me know if there is anything I’m missing/omitting/overlooking, or if some of this stuff doesn’t need replaced and I’m wasting my time with it.
Carb rebuild
New distributor/cap/wires/plugs
Intake manifolds and risers
Water pump
Raw water pump housing/impeller
Front cover gasket (apparently integral to the front cover itself?)
Obviously I’ll also be replacing the head gaskets and all of the other gaskets I come across. Is there anything I’m neglecting here? Is replacing the front cover overkill? Based on the look of my bilge I figure there’s a slow oil leak somewhere. The oil pan is coming off so I’ll be replacing that gasket, should I do the oil pump too?
What about adhesives/sealants? I bought a new set of head bolts from ARP and they came with their own sealant. I’ve heard good things about Permatex #59235 for other sensors/bolts that need sealed. Is Permatex’s “the Right Stuff” good for places I’d use RTV? What about their copper “Spray A Gasket” for the head gaskets and exhaust manifolds/risers?
Lastly, I’ve pulled plenty of car engines but never one from a boat. I’ve got a gantry crane, hoist, and engine stand. I have the VP service manual and see it says I need 6 inches of clearance in the front to be able to remove the engine without taking the outdrive off. If I pull the water pump while it’s still in the boat that should give me plenty of room. Once I have the weight on the crane will it just slide forward and disengage from the U-joint or is there something back there that needs to be disconnected? It’s a VP SX-M outdrive if that makes a difference.
Any other tips/tricks/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help.
Full story - I suffered a valve strike in the #2 cylinder last season due to water intrusion from a bad exhaust manifold riser. I pulled the heads and sent them to a machine shop with the hope of just getting away with a top end rebuild but decided to pull the whole thing since it’s been sitting for almost a year now and the bores need to be honed. I also figured it’ll give me a chance to inspect the lower end to make sure the valve strike didn’t cause damage to the rod or bearings. Since I’ll have it out I figure I should replace most of the trouble spots. Here’s my plan so far, let me know if there is anything I’m missing/omitting/overlooking, or if some of this stuff doesn’t need replaced and I’m wasting my time with it.
Carb rebuild
New distributor/cap/wires/plugs
Intake manifolds and risers
Water pump
Raw water pump housing/impeller
Front cover gasket (apparently integral to the front cover itself?)
Obviously I’ll also be replacing the head gaskets and all of the other gaskets I come across. Is there anything I’m neglecting here? Is replacing the front cover overkill? Based on the look of my bilge I figure there’s a slow oil leak somewhere. The oil pan is coming off so I’ll be replacing that gasket, should I do the oil pump too?
What about adhesives/sealants? I bought a new set of head bolts from ARP and they came with their own sealant. I’ve heard good things about Permatex #59235 for other sensors/bolts that need sealed. Is Permatex’s “the Right Stuff” good for places I’d use RTV? What about their copper “Spray A Gasket” for the head gaskets and exhaust manifolds/risers?
Lastly, I’ve pulled plenty of car engines but never one from a boat. I’ve got a gantry crane, hoist, and engine stand. I have the VP service manual and see it says I need 6 inches of clearance in the front to be able to remove the engine without taking the outdrive off. If I pull the water pump while it’s still in the boat that should give me plenty of room. Once I have the weight on the crane will it just slide forward and disengage from the U-joint or is there something back there that needs to be disconnected? It’s a VP SX-M outdrive if that makes a difference.
Any other tips/tricks/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help.
