Volvo penta 5.0 gl not sucking water

Mikecaldo

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Sep 5, 2019
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Started to winterize the boat yesterday. On the muffs it was not exhausting water. Got up to normal temp, still nothing so I shut it down. Changed impeller(the old one looked fine to me). Still nothing. Pulled hoses and there is no water even getting to the pump. Filled a trough with water and submerged the drive. Still nothing. Not sure what I did to it. Where should I be looking now? Thanks for any hints!
**** and yes, I am certain the hoses are hooked up properly to the pump!
Thanks
Mike
 

Scott Danforth

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look at the fitting at the front end of the drive where the hose connects. early ones were white metal and corroded off, later ones were plastic and broke off

also, never ever ever ever attempt to draw water from a bucket or trough for an I/O. you will smoke the impeller

anyway, to winterize the boat, you dont even need water. you need to drain the block, manifolds and hoses
 

Mikecaldo

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look at the fitting at the front end of the drive where the hose connects. early ones were white metal and corroded off, later ones were plastic and broke off

also, never ever ever ever attempt to draw water from a bucket or trough for an I/O. you will smoke the impeller

anyway, to winterize the boat, you dont even need water. you need to drain the block, manifolds and hoses
I followed all the hoses back and everything seems snug and connected. Might have to suck it up and let the dealer have a crack at it. I’ll bring my checkbook.
 

Mikecaldo

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I followed all the hoses back and everything seems snug and connected. Might have to suck it up and let the dealer have a crack at it. I’ll bring my checkbook.
With regard to the winterization… started it on the hose first to get warm so I could run antifreeze through it.
 

Mikecaldo

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Is there any chance I need to prime it? When I changed the impeller everything drained into the bilge. Would that matter? If so, would I just fill the “in” hose back to the intake and then reconnect?
 

alldodge

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With regard to the winterization… started it on the hose first to get warm so I could run antifreeze through it.

Don't do this ever. The thermostat opens and closes with temp. Once warmed up it "does NOT" stay open. Soon as cooler water comes in contact it closes back off. You will "never" replace all the water with pure AF.

Drain fully and your now winterized. After that it you want to add AF for more protection, go for it

Scott, is saying "remove" the fitting which the hose is connected to and see if it "IS" clogged
 

Scott Danforth

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With regard to the winterization… started it on the hose first to get warm so I could run antifreeze through it.
this is the most quick way to buying a new block.

cold anti-freeze hits the thermostat, it closes, and maybe your exhaust gets antifreeze, however your block doesnt

drain fully and you are winterized.

if spending $30 on antifreeze and pouring into your motor makes you warm and fuzzy, then do so, like the manual states. with a funnel thru the thermostat housing
 

Lou C

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First of all do you have an AQ series or SX series, there is a difference in the AQ uses a metal water hose fitting that can rot out and not seal, but the SX series used a plastic fitting in the pivot housing that can crack and leak water (inherited from the OMC Cobra design).
Make sure your muffs fit well, some do not and leak so much air in that the pump has trouble priming. Remember on any engine that has an engine mounted impeller the water being fed by the muffs must travel UP about 18" through the transom mount and then approx 3.5' forward to the impeller housing. The impeller cannot suck water, with air in that line. It can only move water that is present in the impeller housing. This is why while Volvo brags about their engine mounted impeller, when it comes to running on the water hose an Alpha or OMC Cobra will prime more easily due to the pump being in the outdrive. So for a Volvo, or Bravo you need to use good fitting muffs and have good water pressure.
When the boat's in the water, it's totally different because hydrostatic pressure fills that whole hose with water because its below the static water line.
So you can see why you will never get it to prime in a trough. That works only on outboards, where the lower unit can be submerged enough.
 

Mikecaldo

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Sep 5, 2019
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this is the most quick way to buying a new block.

cold anti-freeze hits the thermostat, it closes, and maybe your exhaust gets antifreeze, however your block doesnt

drain fully and you are winterized.

if spending $30 on antifreeze and pouring into your motor makes you warm and fuzzy, then do so, like the manual states. with a funnel thru the thermostat housing
First of all do you have an AQ series or SX series, there is a difference in the AQ uses a metal water hose fitting that can rot out and not seal, but the SX series used a plastic fitting in the pivot housing that can crack and leak water (inherited from the OMC Cobra design).
Make sure your muffs fit well, some do not and leak so much air in that the pump has trouble priming. Remember on any engine that has an engine mounted impeller the water being fed by the muffs must travel UP about 18" through the transom mount and then approx 3.5' forward to the impeller housing. The impeller cannot suck water, with air in that line. It can only move water that is present in the impeller housing. This is why while Volvo brags about their engine mounted impeller, when it comes to running on the water hose an Alpha or OMC Cobra will prime more easily due to the pump being in the outdrive. So for a Volvo, or Bravo you need to use good fitting muffs and have good water pressure.
When the boat's in the water, it's totally different because hydrostatic pressure fills that whole hose with water because its below the static water line.
So you can see why you will never get it to prime in a trough. That works only on outboards, where the lower unit can be submerged enough.
I see. It’s an SX. Maybe I’ll bring it to the dock and back it in, see what happens.
 
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