Volvo Penta Outdrive SX-A - Stripped threads on oil fill/overflow hole - proper way to repair?

vetting

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Trying to help a buddy who has a stripped oil fill/overflow hole on his Volvo Penta outdrive. With the high cost of a Volvo Penta outdrive failure, we would prefer to do this the most proper way possible. Is the correct way to remove the housing and take it in to get a proper helicoil or time-sert? Drill and tap and find a larger plug? If removing that housing, what does it all entail and is there any realignment procedures?
Thank you in advance for your help.
 

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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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you should be pulling your drive every year to inspect the bellows, u-joints and the gimbal, and checking alignment

two choices on the hole. original size is 3/8-16 tap. can jump up to an M10 plug, or run a helicoil.

you can do the repair in-situ if you use the grease trick on the tap, then clean the grease/chips out.
 

vetting

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Dec 9, 2012
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you should be pulling your drive every year to inspect the bellows, u-joints and the gimbal, and checking alignment

two choices on the hole. original size is 3/8-16 tap. can jump up to an M10 plug, or run a helicoil.

you can do the repair in-situ if you use the grease trick on the tap, then clean the grease/chips out.
I did some internet searching and still dont know the difference between a helicoil and a timesert. Being that the housing is aluminum, im not sure just tapping it to a M10 plug is the way to go since Volvo upgraded the drive later to have a metal insert. Granted I dont know a lot about some of the mechanicals, but I want to do this the safest way possible due to the cost of "if things go wrong".
 

Mc Tool

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A metal insert would be to stop ham fisted wallys from strippin the thread 😁 . A 10mm screw would be the go , just supposing you can find one in America 😁
Drill the hole and cut the thread by hand with grease applied to drill and tap , just make sure you get it square .......not the hole , well yeah the hole but not a square hole, ..... the hole must be square .....like 90⁰ to the surface
 

vetting

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A metal insert would be to stop ham fisted wallys from strippin the thread 😁 . A 10mm screw would be the go , just supposing you can find one in America 😁
Drill the hole and cut the thread by hand with grease applied to drill and tap , just make sure you get it square .......not the hole , well yeah the hole but not a square hole, ..... the hole must be square .....like 90⁰ to the surface
Im just a little concerned about cutting new threads in to aluminum - then putting another SS plug or bolt into it. Just really hesitant overall due to the cost of something goes wrong with a Volvo Penta drive.
 

Mc Tool

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Im just a little concerned about cutting new threads in to aluminum - then putting another SS plug or bolt into it. Just really hesitant overall due to the cost of something goes wrong with a Volvo Penta drive.
Well ya gotta do something ! 😁 And everything involves machining that hole . The stainless/aluminium thing doesnt really matter as the sealing washer will stop any water getting in to that union and there will be oil on the inside of the seal where the threads are.
Use only sharp drills and taps , even if you buy 2 new drills ( drill the hole to tapping size in 2 stages ). You have to figure out away to hold the drill bits, easiest is to grind a couple of flats on the drill shank end and hold it in the tap holder.
An assistant is very helpful in assuring drill is at right angles(90⁰) ,get them to hold a square and eyeball the action while you turn the drill ......same deal for the tap .
If you took that housing to an engineers shop this is pretty much what they would do.
End of the day its a fill hole not a main bearing stud hole and if you #uck up the 10mm hole theres alway 12mm or 7/16, 1/2 inch and them holes are to blimmin small anyhow .
Screenshot_20250424-180919.png
These types of screws are ideal ( couldnt find an image of a 10mm one ), the o ring has a bit of "give" . Dont over tighten . Peeps tend to think of the damage if it does come out on the hop , and ya aint gunna know till she chunders.......so they lean on that screw extra hard .....dont. 6 f/lb is plenty🙂
 

MrMarty51

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Im just a little concerned about cutting new threads in to aluminum - then putting another SS plug or bolt into it. Just really hesitant overall due to the cost of something goes wrong with a Volvo Penta drive.
Get some nickel base anti seize compound and apply that to the threads of anything stainless steel.
The nickel base anti seize is made when dissimilar metals are in contact with each other, and, it will prevent the stainless steel threads from galling and busting the bolt or plug and stripping out the threads once more.
 
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