Volvo-Penta trim cylinder rebuild questions

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GTGeek88

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I have an 18 ft. Four Winns bowrider with the 4.3 GL-A engine and the SX-M outdrive. I've got a leak in the starboard side trim cylinder and have purchased a rebuild kit. When getting ready to start, I noticed the port side seemed to have some sort of leak, too. But it was different. I did get a drop of hydraulic fluid on the floor of my garage on that side, but couldn't find any significant fluid on the underside of the cylinder (that is the case with the starboard side - it does seem to be leaking out of the cylinder). What I noticed was that on the port side there was some fluid pooling at the point where the hoses attach to the cylinder. That would seem to indicate to me some sort of problem at the connection point (I hope it might only need an o-ring replacement there). The starboard side is dry in that same attachment area, which reinforces the idea that it's a problem in the cylinder. Here are my questions:

I'd like to use a flair cap to cap off the hoses to avoid losing fluid. I think they may be 7/16, but I'm having trouble confirming that (and I'm also not seeing that size at Home Depot or Lowes). Can anyone point me to some specs? I find diagrams with no problem, but they don't detail this or other sizes.

It seems refilling the cylinder with fluid before reattaching the hoses is good practice, but I'm wondering what the easiest way to do that might be. I happen to have a syringe with a curved end used to clean a socket from a recent tooth extraction and realized that might work well. It doesn't have a large capacity, however. I was also thinking I could locate some small diameter tubing that might help but still need a way to feed the fluid into the tubing. Any suggestions would be appreciated (and if you've done this job, any general tips would also be appreciated).

I'm going to try to attach two pictures. I hope it works. Another site disallowed that for me, a new user, so hopefully I'll have more success here. The one with the oil pooling is the port side and the other one is the starboard side.

Thanks in advance.
 

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dypcdiver

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Don't worry too much about loosing fluid, it self bleeds in no time.
Replacing the seals is easy. However there is a supplier online who uses rotary seals instead of dust seals in the end caps, that might work but after only one season the garter springs have rusted.
The correct seal is AR 7979-PT. I got mine from a Yamaha agent!
Below is the spanner I made to remove the end caps.
 

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GTGeek88

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 9, 2022
Messages
30
Don't worry too much about loosing fluid, it self bleeds in no time.
Replacing the seals is easy. However there is a supplier online who uses rotary seals instead of dust seals in the end caps, that might work but after only one season the garter springs have rusted.
The correct seal is AR 7979-PT. I got mine from a Yamaha agent!
Below is the spanner I made to remove the end caps.
Well, I got the job done. I'm not sure what you were saying. Rotary seals? Dust seals? I'm lost. I got the rebuild kit here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/334476790602
I got the job done and then may have screwed myself over at the very end by accidentally stripping the threads on the lower hose port. I'm trying to see if I can get them repaired/reshaped/whatever good enough to get the hose reattached so that all my work so far is not wasted.
 

ZLJUANN

Cadet
Joined
Aug 3, 2020
Messages
21
Hi, did you ever figure out the thread pitch? I am in the exact same predicament and also have stripped threads. I am trying to figure this out before I buy a new 800 dollar cylinder.
 
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