1995 Four Winns, 5 liter Ford, Volvo SX Drive runs only fresh water, and back on trailer after outing.
In about 2 days the drive had gone down about 1/4 inch maybe a bit more, in about 5 to 7 days it was down about 3 to 4 inches. (is this what is referred to as drifting??) There are no visible leaks of oil around the rod where it comes out of the cylinder.
I see there are 2 vendors on eb*y that sell rebuild kits for lift cylinders.
Any one any experience with doing rebuild and/or these kits?
1. I understand it can be done on the boat in the driveway?
2. No hydraulic lines need to be undone?
3. Bleeding is just raising and lowering the outdrive? (in my case I need to put the trailer wheels up on some board to get full down clearance for the drive)
4. An adjustable Pin Wrench (used for small angle grinders) is what is used to take the caps off the prop side of the cylinders?? THIS IS A CONCERN, AS THOSE WRENCHES ARE NOT TOO STRONG???
5. On another note my riser on the driver side of the boat is about 30 degree Fahrenheit warmer than the passenger side I point to the boss mark that is about 3 inches round on each riser. If I remember one is 167, other 124, temp on dash 160.
6. Another note trim gauge is erratic, I assume water has got to the sender on the outdrive, and it reads funny. I just go buy sound and how the boat is planning. Is this a hard fix? I read somewhere it can be done without pulling the drive of the bell housing?
I could use all the help I can get, can't afford trip to shop, too many other things spent any extra $$. The boat is showroom condition, as you see from the drive photos.. just age getting these parts??
Also I looked here but link is not opening:
14. Drive leaks down, trim system does not hold pressure.
This Service Bulletin applies to: - All DP-290 with Power Trim.- All SX, DP-S drives where the shield designation starts with ??SX-M??. Previous shields had a different type of pump and pump house.
http://forums.iboats.com/attachment....9&d=1312641139
Thanks for the long read
ron3033
In about 2 days the drive had gone down about 1/4 inch maybe a bit more, in about 5 to 7 days it was down about 3 to 4 inches. (is this what is referred to as drifting??) There are no visible leaks of oil around the rod where it comes out of the cylinder.
I see there are 2 vendors on eb*y that sell rebuild kits for lift cylinders.
Any one any experience with doing rebuild and/or these kits?
1. I understand it can be done on the boat in the driveway?
2. No hydraulic lines need to be undone?
3. Bleeding is just raising and lowering the outdrive? (in my case I need to put the trailer wheels up on some board to get full down clearance for the drive)
4. An adjustable Pin Wrench (used for small angle grinders) is what is used to take the caps off the prop side of the cylinders?? THIS IS A CONCERN, AS THOSE WRENCHES ARE NOT TOO STRONG???
5. On another note my riser on the driver side of the boat is about 30 degree Fahrenheit warmer than the passenger side I point to the boss mark that is about 3 inches round on each riser. If I remember one is 167, other 124, temp on dash 160.
6. Another note trim gauge is erratic, I assume water has got to the sender on the outdrive, and it reads funny. I just go buy sound and how the boat is planning. Is this a hard fix? I read somewhere it can be done without pulling the drive of the bell housing?
I could use all the help I can get, can't afford trip to shop, too many other things spent any extra $$. The boat is showroom condition, as you see from the drive photos.. just age getting these parts??
Also I looked here but link is not opening:
14. Drive leaks down, trim system does not hold pressure.
This Service Bulletin applies to: - All DP-290 with Power Trim.- All SX, DP-S drives where the shield designation starts with ??SX-M??. Previous shields had a different type of pump and pump house.
http://forums.iboats.com/attachment....9&d=1312641139
Thanks for the long read
ron3033
