Volvo sx trim sender

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89retta

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Looking for the resistance value of the trim sender. Thanks for any help
 

Augoose

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My sending unit from my sx-m drive reads 0 to 626 ohms on the bench. I don't know what the range should be from full trailer position to full down position however. Hope that helps.
 

89retta

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My sending unit from my sx-m drive reads 0 to 626 ohms on the bench. I don't know what the range should be from full trailer position to full down position however. Hope that helps.

​Thanks. Just so I understand correctly when you turn the nut on the back one direction you get 0 ohms and 626 when you turn it the other way to full stop ?
 

Augoose

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Yes, it's basically a potentiometer so it runs the full range from 0 to 626. If you turn it slowly you should see the resistance slowly change. I don't know what values would indicate what position but the gauge should read the resistance and the needle would represent the approximate position of the drive. The wires on my sending unit broke off near the base last year and so I cut away the rubber housing of the sending unit, repaired the wires and then made a new base with epoxy. I haven't reinstalled it yet but on the bench those are the readings I got for resistance. How the resistance relates to the gauge is just a guess. Good luck!
 

89retta

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Mine is going from 0 to infinite. Does that mean its no good ?
 

Augoose

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Are you getting any other values when you spin the knob or does your meter just read infinite? Are you sure your meter is good? What type of meter are you using- Digital (DDM) or analog?

How are you measuring the resistance? Do you have a three wire or two wire sending unit? Not to insult and for the benefit of anyone else who comes along looking for answers, an infinite resistance reading suggests an open circuit, ie a broken wire, meaning the meter doesn't know what to read because there is no signal coming back to complete the circuit. A broken wire is the most likely scenario followed by a bad sending unit, which is basically just a potentiometer or pot.

Are you reading resistance from the dash or is the sending unit on the bench? Did you insert your multi meter into the circuit as close to the sending unit as possible so you can rule out a break in the wire between the dash and the outdrive?

Depending on where you are in the troubleshooting, you can try splicing the wires which run from the dash to the outdrive together at one end and then using your DMM to check for continuity at the other end across the leads- disconnect the ends at the gauge first however. If no continuity then you have a break which is great and easy to fix.
 
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89retta

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Its a 2 wire and my wires broke near the sender. I'm using a DDM and just thought I would check it while I have it off the boat. But what I did was when I turned the nut on the back when it reached the stop I kept turning so it went past. So now I don't know if I screwed up the calibration. Full down is 11 ohms from what I've found out would be nice to find out full up
 

Augoose

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If you have a starting point of down in terms of resistance, full up really doesn't matter as long as your sending unit can show incremental readings. I've spun mine all around as well several times and it still works as a pot should - not to say that's the right thing to do but if turning the pot changes your resistance readings you might be ok.

Are you able to spin the pot slowly until you get 11 ohms? If not and you are still getting infinite, I'd say the ends of the wire you are using to connect the leads of your DMM still have a break closer to the pot itself. I had to dig mine out quite a bit to get to where the wires connect to the terminals on the pot itself and then sort of restore with epoxy the plastic housing of the sending unit I dug out. I figured a new one is $200 plus and I can't break mine anymore than it already is, so why not tear into it?

If you can get to 11 ohms by slowly turning the pot, I would just put the lower unit at full down and hold the pot in place hovering it outside of where it mounts to the side of the drive in the proper orientation. Then with a helper watching the dash, rotate the knob slowly on the pot until the gauge reads where the drive is - then secure it and you are done- it will take some trial and error most likely and be sure to have power to the dash.

Good luck
 

89retta

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Yes I have it set at 11 now. Will put it back and see how it goes. Thanks for your help
 

tfpkrman

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I put a new sender in and the gage stays at full up. When I rotate the pot the needle goes down. Unfortunately the pot only moves about 1/8 turn when installed and gage does not change. The pot only moves the needle when its turned 1/4 turn. Ohms never go to zero. Ohms are 16 to 404. If i start at 404 and lower the drive the ohms only drop like 50 ohms. Is my NEW SENDER BAD?
 

dypcdiver

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The way I do mine when I replace it is to get someone in the boat watching the gauge set the outdrive with the cavitation plate parallel to the boat keel, then remove the sender and rotate the hexagonal nut/plastic bit until the person in the boat tells you it is set at '0' degrees, then replace it in the pivot bolt and fine tune it to '0' degrees again and tighten the screws.
Have fun.
 
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