VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

[dacarter]

I recently purchased a '03 Larson 274 Cabrio that has a bad oil leak through corrosion in the pan. I was going to have a shop do the work, but after getting a $2200 estimate, and some serious attitude, I picked the boat up and decided to tackle it myself.

I have found at least one individual online that posted he was able to swap out the pan without removing the engine, so I'll try that first, but understand I may have to at least lift the engine. There is a lot of room around the engine, so I should be able to get to all the bolts on the pan, and my pump/float switch is in front of the engine, so I may get lucky. I also plan to replace the seals/orings on the dip stick tube.

The Volvo pan is now over $400, so I ordered the GM (10242245 ) pan for about $76 which other's here have said is identical to the Volvo pan. I'm going to spray the pan with bed liner to give it extra protection from the salt water.

I was very happy to find the shop manual on this site, which says if I have at least 6" in front of the engine, I don't have to remove the outdrive. I have a foot or more in front of the engine, so if I do have to lift it, should be fairly easy.

Since this is a large boat with the engine down under the floor, I'm thinking I could build a structure that rests on each side of the boat, spreading the load on carpeted 2x4's. I would only need to raise the engine a foot or two to get the pan replaced. I would need to slide the engine forward to raise it, so not sure this design would allow for that. May have to build a larger structure that rests on the ground, where the boat can be moved to slide the engine forward. The shop manual doesn't show any bolts connecting the engine to the outdrive, looks like it's just wires, exhaust, fuel lines, hoses, and the two motor mounts.

Any tips or tricks would be appreciated. I'm fairly mechanical and have done engine swaps in cars before. Might do a YouTube Video how to since there doesn't seem to be a good one out there.

 

[Don S]

Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

I was very happy to find the shop manual on this site, which says if I have at least 6" in front of the engine, I don't have to remove the outdrive. I have a foot or more in front of the engine, so if I do have to lift it, should be fairly easy.

You may not have to take the drive off to remove the engine, but you have to take it off to install the engine. There is no other way for you to check the alignment.
Might as well get used to pulling the drive every year, that is the only way you can grease the coupler splines.

 

[dacarter]

Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

The manual states that you don't need to worry about alignment if you are not changing the mounts, or replacing stringers.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

The manual states that you don't need to worry about alignment if you are not changing the mounts, or replacing stringers.

Which manual says that?

I changed a pan once on a 305 not pulling the engine. I spent so much time that it would have been faster to pull the engine.

Will be interesting if your pan drain opening is the same threads as what you take off.

 

[dacarter]

Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

The Volvo Penta factory workshop manual online at this site. Makes sense really, if you are not doing anything to change the height of the engine, should go back with the same alignment.

Others on this forum have verified that the threads are the same.

Here are two snips from the manual (click thumbnail to read)

 

[Don S]

Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

I wouldn't follow that advise if I were you. It's not very smart, unless you sell couplers.

It's one of those things from the old OMC joint venture things that just never gets changed in the manuals. Much like the wrong timing info for the EST ignition system.

 

[dacarter]

Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

Ok, thanks for the input. Even more reason to try the pan without engine removal.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

Ok, thanks for the input. Even more reason to try the pan without engine removal.

Why? Alignment is easy and you should l be doing it annually anyway. You get an alignment bar for $50 and check it. If you don't need to do any more adjustments, that's great. If it does, you just saved yourself a $300 coupler and taking the engine out again. It's your money so take your chances.

You do realize that it is almost impossible to get the pan to clear the oil pump without lifting the engine somewhat so you are going to have to check alignment whether you remove the engine completely out of the boat or not and the drive will be coming off no matter what you do.

 

[dacarter]

Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

Bruceb58,

I'm confused, in a previous post you said you did the pan job without removing the engine, now you are saying it's next to impossible?

First I've heard that engine alignment is yearly maintenance. What would cause engine alignment to change after installed?

I'm not opposed to getting the tool and learning how to align the engine, in fact I may do it just for the learning experience, but it's hard for me to ignore what's in the manuals. I've been out of VP for 20+ years until I bought this boat a few weeks ago.... do we have a rash of coupler failures due to alignment problems and it's just general knowledge in this community that factory recommendations are wrong?

 

[Bondo]

Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

Bruceb58,

I'm confused, in a previous post you said you did the pan job without removing the engine, now you are saying it's next to impossible?

First I've heard that engine alignment is yearly maintenance. What would cause engine alignment to change after installed?

I'm not opposed to getting the tool and learning how to align the engine, in fact I may do it just for the learning experience, but it's hard for me to ignore what's in the manuals. I've been out of VP for 20+ years until I bought this boat a few weeks ago.... do we have a rash of coupler failures due to alignment problems and it's just general knowledge in this community that factory recommendations are wrong?

Ayuh,.... The Usual cause is Wood Rot....

Checkin' it as part of the annual service, gives ya a heads up of things comin' yer way...
'n as far as the job at hand,...
Pullin' the motor, 'n resettin' it, even usin' the same boltholes, Doesn't necessarily mean it's still aligned...

 

[bruceb58]

Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

I'm confused, in a previous post you said you did the pan job without removing the engine, now you are saying it's next to impossible?

Its next to impossible without lifting the engine up. I lifted the engine up enough so that the pan would come out. If I ever had to do it again, I would remove the engine completely out of the boat and that is what I am recommending for you to do. Depending on how much room you have, getting the pan seal on correctly at the back of the pan is difficult if you can't see it.

You may have more room in your engine area than I did since your boat is larger so maybe it will be different for you.

do we have a rash of coupler failures due to alignment problems and it's just general knowledge in this community that factory recommendations are wrong?

I check my alignment every year. When I first bought my boat it was around 3 years old. I had to readjust the alignment a lot that first time and a little bit a few years later.

 

[dacarter]

Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

How far can I lift the engine with the outdrive in place without moving the engine forward or damaging the coupler?

 

[bruceb58]

Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

How far can I lift the engine with the outdrive in place without moving the engine forward or damaging the coupler?

Zero!

 

[Don S]

Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

Why not spend the 10 to 15 minutes and pull the drive. It's the easiest part of the job.
Of course it will be doing the job correctly, instead of half azzed.

You could have had the engine out, the pan changed, and back in, in the time you have spent asking about it.

 

[saintlee]

Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

Just completed the same job you are starting. Pulled the outdrive as part of yearly maintainance. I used a 4 by 4 sistered by a 2 by 4 on each side resting on side walls of boat. I put two 20 inch 2 by 4s on the wall on top of a shop towel to prevent scratching. After removing all wires, hoses, and fuel lines i lifted with a 1/2 ton come-a-long about 10 inches. Easily used my shoulder to slide top 2 by 4 forward about 8 inches. At this point it made sence to me to change my transum seal and y-pipe oring. I ordered a after market 305 truck oil pan, fel-pro pan gasket and the drain threading was different. A local shop brazed on the correct metric nut on the inside for 20 bucks. All worked well.
i have pics if you need.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

A local shop brazed on the correct metric nut on the inside for 20 bucks. All worked well.
i have pics if you need.

That is basically what I found years ago when I did mine.

Make sure you paint that pan with really good paint before you install or you will be doing it again in a few years.

 

[saintlee]

Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

I painted with engine high temp red. Easy to see any oil leaks with the red.

 

[dacarter]

Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

saintlee, PM sent.

According to this thead http://forums.iboats.com/volvo-penta-i-o-inboard-gas-engines-outdrives/5-0-gl-oil-pan-replace-volvo-385778-299-359-gm-10242245-98-a-487601.html , the GM pan has the same 12mm x 1.75 theads, we'll see...

Having trouble just sucking the oil out now...

 

[bruceb58]

Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

Having trouble just sucking the oil out now...

You using a pump that threads into the top of the dipstick tube?

 

[dacarter]

Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

Yes, but couldn't get it to work. Maybe an air leak at the connection. Going to try a small hose down the dipstick tube next.