Wanted: Bravo III Lower Unit

[floydff]

Well, after the Marina having my boat for almost 3 months, I may soon be getting it back with ANOTHER engine (the last one they installed lasted for about 7 hours). But, the 1996 outdrive is VERY pitted/corroded, especially where the stainless steel props join the gear housing. Does anyone have suggestions on where they have gotten parts, and if anyone has taken the old guts and put them in a new housing? After reading the articles on the corrosion problems on this assembly (yes, I now know that I need a SECOND Mercathode and special anodes), I really don't want to dump a BUNCH of money into an outdrive on a boat I haven't even gotten to use yet. Thanks for the advise!!

 

[tommays]

Re: Wanted: Bravo III Lower Unit

floyd i would try like i said before to get the problem under control with the old drive<br /><br />you can repaint the drive with a merc kit that will reseal the case<br /><br />then get the corrision system working after you get it under control the drive may last a long time i dont think you want to know what a case cost it will be a big bunch of money close to a motor<br /><br />tommays

 

[floydff]

Re: Wanted: Bravo III Lower Unit

My concern is if ADDITIONAL damage will be done to other parts of the outdrive if a hole goes the rest of the way through the gear housing (and getting stranded and spending ALL day with SeaTow again). I'd hate to lose the entire outdrive if the lower unit fails (this game is expensive enough!). I've told the marina to replace the anodes (although they say it won't make any difference at this point) and was planning on putting the proper paint back on the bare spots (although they say they won't do any sanding). The Marina says it may only last a few more hours, but it won't last another year. I don't have any problem adding a second Mercathode unit; with an electrical background, that part I understand. <br /><br />I thought it might be worth the effort to get the guts out of this lower unit, if they are still good, and put them in a new housing if the labor wasn't too extensive. My understanding is that once the hole works through (and I don't know exactly how thick the metal in the casing is), the oil will be replaced by water and the bearings and gears will fail due to lack of lubrication. I could send someone a close-up picture if I ever get this thing back. Thanks again for the comments!

 

[steve n carol]

Re: Wanted: Bravo III Lower Unit

Mr Fasking, Having an electricl background, couldnt you perform a 'pulse' testing or sonogram to check the thickness of the cases where they are pitted?<br />Is the Bravo III prone to corrosion? my out drive, while it dosen't sit in salt water, has been used for 30+ years in the salt, yes it is pitted, but I believe a long way from scrap.<br />I have seen bravo III cases on e-bay. personally, I rather a boat junk yard. should be alot of them down your way. or a little further south...sl

 

[tommays]

Re: Wanted: Bravo III Lower Unit

floyd<br />i feel your pain but<br /><br />even if you put a brand new lower on your boat and do not fix the root cause of the problem the new lower will get damaged very quickly<br /><br />remenber the case is not the problem it is only the end result <br /><br />i dont no how close it is to leaking but if it was refinished correctly and the correct anti corrison parts are used there should be zero further corrison<br /><br />unless you can poke a screwdriver through the case right now it should not be to late if it is that bad you should have the boat hauled<br /><br />the marina does not seam to want to fix it <br /><br />every outdrive needs to keep the finish in good condition or one time on some sand and we would all be changeing are cases<br /><br />i am trying to give you the cheapest way out of a bad thing<br />tommays

 

[floydff]

Re: Wanted: Bravo III Lower Unit

Thank you for the advise. I will try the "screwdriver test" when I do get the boat out from being a hostage. I heard today that they wasted another day troubleshooting the 3800 rpm problem, just to find out at the end of the day that the new knock sensor was also defective (ugh!).<br /><br />I will also look into how to verify the Mercathode is working properly, and will probably install a second one since I've seen that recommended. I will also have new anodes installed and the proper paintwork done by someone who knows what they are doing.<br /><br />I believe that the boat stayed in the water at one time, but that will no longer be the case. So, hopefully, that will lesson future corrosion problems.<br /><br />I've had them install a "Guardian System" to help flush the engine, since I've realized how critical the manifolds are to the possible destruction of an engine.<br /><br />I'll be keeping my fingers crossed that I get the boat home this time (it died on the way home after I had just bought it with only seven hours on the last engine they put in, and has been in that "Premier" Mercruiser marina since JUNE!!