Water in Cylinder on Volvo 3.0

[wgcdc]

I have several issues I need help with:<br /><br />I have a 1996 Regal 258 Commodore with twin carbureted Volvo 3.0 GS engines with about 380 hours on each engine. The STBD engine’s raw water pump shaft broke and the engine overheated. After the pump was replaced the engine started and ran as though nothing had happened to it. <br /><br />After several uses the starter failed. I replaced the starter. Then the engine was very difficult to start or wouldn’t start at all. I removed a spark plug to find it was wet with what I thought was gasoline. I turned the engine over with a single plug removed to verify spark. When the engine turned over, about a teaspoon of water came out of the spark plug hole on each stroke. I checked the oil and it had that creamy look to it. After reading your forum it looks like there is a good chance that it is a cracked manifold or leaking head gasket. <br /><br />My questions are:<br /><br />1) One of the forum’s notes mentioned to water test the manifold. How does one do this? How can I verify that the manifold is not the source of the leak?<br /><br />2) I assume that if the manifold is not the source then the cylinder head or gasket will be the source? How does one verify this?<br /><br />3) Another un-related issue is that the engine starter circuit does not always work. I have jumpered out the ignition switch and the neutral lock out switch without success. I have also replaced the Hella starter relay. I assume the issue is between the neutral lock out switch and the starter solenoid? Any words of wisdom on how to trouble shoot?<br /><br />Thanks in advance for your help

 

[Walt T]

Re: Water in Cylinder on Volvo 3.0

First of all do a compression test. That may show a problem.<br /><br />If the manifold is more than 4 years old in salt water-replace it. 10 years for fresh. You can try testing it by filling it with water and trying to see where it leaks. But that doesnt always work. A marine shop may be able to pressure test, but that isnt a perfect test either. <br /><br />If you have a crack in the head or engine, you can't really find it until you take the engine apart, and even then you may not find it.<br /><br />Starter problems are diagnosed by verifying power and ground is where they are supposed to be. If you turn the key and the lead on the solenoid lights up but the big lug doesnt, you have a bad solenoid or bad ground. If the big lug does light up then you have a bad starter or no ground. If the little solenoid lead does not light up then you have to trace that back and find out why.<br />Verify good clean connections at the battery and verify good clean ground on the block where the cable is bolted. By verify I mean take them apart and clean them.

 

[wgcdc]

Re: Water in Cylinder on Volvo 3.0

Thanks DieselWalt. The manifolds are 8 years old and used in salt and fresh. I will try your recommendations.

 

[wgcdc]

Re: Water in Cylinder on Volvo 3.0

I have completed the compression test and the results are as follows:<br /><br />Cylinder Pressure<br />1) 210 psi<br />2) 225 psi<br />3) 170 psi<br />4) 210 psi<br /><br />This seems high; I assume #3 is normal. There is water in the cylinders so I assume that is why 1, 2 & 4 are high? My Clymer manual doesn’t state what compression should be. I am going to start taking the manifold off. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[wgcdc]

Re: Water in Cylinder on Volvo 3.0

I just got the manifold off. Intake ports on cylinders 1, 2 & 4 are rusty. Intake ports 1 & 2 are very rusty (remember the 3.0 has the carburetor on the manifold so it is both intake and exhaust on one manifold). Exhaust ports have very little rust. I am going to try and pressure test the manifold with water. I assume since the intake ports are rusty my problem is the manifold? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[fireship1]

Re: Water in Cylinder on Volvo 3.0

Hello, I would try to clean up those rusty valve stems with PB Blaster. Try and get all of that rust out of there! But when you say they were VERY rusty this don't make me think happy thoughts If they are rusted bad enough you might have to pull the head and have the valve train cleaned up at a machine shop. Rusty valves are usually sticky valves. Try cleaning first and see how it goes. You say that the exhaust valves have very little rust....Even very little is too much for me. Dump that manifold...8 years is overdue, If running in salt water it should be replaced. Good luck! Keep posting!

 

[wgcdc]

Re: Water in Cylinder on Volvo 3.0

Thanks Fireship1. I pressure tested the manifold and it definitely has a crack on the inside of the exhaust header. The exhaust header must have filled with water and the water drained into the cylinders while starting. I will order a manifold, clean up the heads and check compression. When I removed the manifold, I noticed that there was not a flapper valve. The shaft is there, but no valve. Should I be concerned or do some engines not use a flapper?