water in gear case

kbert1171

Seaman
Joined
Feb 5, 2017
Messages
71
pulled the plug on my 70 6R70 6HP to change the gear lube and a trickle of water followed by milky sludge oozed from the hole. opened the gearcase to clean out the sludge. no when i put it back together, do i use a sealant of some sort?
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,454
Are you installing new seals on driveshaft and propshaft ?-------New o-ring on the shift rod ?----------Keeping water out is critical for the bearing above the pinion gear !
 

Vic.S

Rear Admiral
Joined
May 4, 2004
Messages
4,719
As above replace the driveshaft, propshaft and shift rod seals

Rebuild using a new spaghetti seal between the gear case halves and new gearcase head O ring

Also fit new seals on the oil drain and level screws.

Sensible also at this time to fit a new water pump impeller

You will find a manual that covers you motor at http://boatinfo.no/lib/evinrude/manuals/1956-1970johnsonevinrude.html#/0
It tells you where sealant is required when re-assembling the gearcase unit
 

boobie

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 5, 2009
Messages
20,826
After you're all done be sure to pressure and vacuum check it.
 

kbert1171

Seaman
Joined
Feb 5, 2017
Messages
71
ok. i ordered a seal kit for the gearcase. so while im waiting on that, i have another question. what is the best way to get the spring onto the float valve? it didnt have one on when i tore it down and ive been trying to assemble it and i cannot keep the spring to stay in place. the manuals i have do no tgive any help on the matter.
 

kbert1171

Seaman
Joined
Feb 5, 2017
Messages
71
oh, and i also need to know how to pressure and vacuum test the gear case
 

boobie

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 5, 2009
Messages
20,826
Take it into a dlr to have him pressure and vacuum test it. Shouldn't cost much.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
On that little clip for the carb float valve -- need the newer needle with the indentation at the top end (comes in a carb kit). The small clip end goes on the needle and the larger one slips over the float arm.
 

kbert1171

Seaman
Joined
Feb 5, 2017
Messages
71
That's what I have been trying, but it keeps coming off the needle. I'll keep trying. Thank you.
 

kbert1171

Seaman
Joined
Feb 5, 2017
Messages
71
Thanks. Figures it out. Now I'm just waiting on the parts for the gear case.
I appreciate all your advice.
 

WhiskeyGun

Cadet
Joined
Jun 30, 2016
Messages
10
If you have on of those attwood gear lube pumps from walmart, all you need is a bike air pump with a gauge that you stomp on. You can modify the air pump to fit the gear lube pump hose and fitting.

Ensure the gearcase has been drained of oil. Attach the gear lube pump fitting from your homemade pressure tester to the drain plug. Pump it up to like 3-4lbs. Your manual might have a specific pressure to test at. Anyways, it should hold at the recommended settings. If it doesn't, fill a clean trash can or tub full of clean water and submerge the gear case past the top of the water pump. Let all the air work itself out until water is calm. Then pump up the air pressure again to to 3-4 lbs. Watch carefully for bubbles. It will reveal the location of where it is leaking. Do not over pressurize as the seals may not seal correctly.

Make sure the drive shaft and anything shaft is smooth where it seals. A pitted drive shaft can still leak with new seals.

Disclaimer:
You may still need to do a vacuum test even after pressure testing it. After running the boat on the lake or bay, you still may develop a leak. Beware some cheap walmart air pumps might leak in its own pump housing.


Air pump I used: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Zefal-Bigfoot-Foot-Pump/24291526. Worked great when I needed it.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
^^works. I use a Mityvac for vacuum testing, and that seems to work fine too.
 

boobie

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 5, 2009
Messages
20,826
Yes, Mityvac does work good. I've always had the Stevens pressure and vacuum testers tho'.
 
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