Water jacket cover/ baffle plate install tower of power

[Jhoppy]

Long story short I?m going back together with a 1971 1350 and want to know what is safe to use as gasket sealant on the water jacket cover that fits around the exhaust ports as well as I have read some ware in this form that a two part thread locking epoxy should be used on the bolts when installing this. I would like to know

What to use as gasket sealant on the water jacket cover around the exhaust ports

What to use as thread locker on the bolts for the water jacket cover around the exhaust ports

Am I correct in thinking this should be torque to 150 inch pounds center out

I was thinking of using permatex ?the right stuff? rated for 450degrees continuous as gasket sealant and locktite blue rated at 300 degrees as thread locker what has worked for you? In this area should I be looking for a sealant that has gasoline resistance or would the normal oil resistance type silicone sealant stuff work?

Thanks

Jason

 

[Faztbullet]

Re: Water jacket cover/ baffle plate install tower of power

The inner waterjacket/baffle plate does not use ANY sealer..the gasket goes on dry. I only use the Resiweld epoxy on a rebuild and all holes are cleaned and chased. I also wipe down all the bare aluminum with acetone in the exhaust chest area. You can get resiweld at grainger or use the Hi-Temp Bonder epoxy by Loctite. Also I torque at 125 in lbs on NEW bolts......

 

[Jhoppy]

Re: Water jacket cover/ baffle plate install tower of power

Thanks Fazbullet,


I appreciate your input, I was however hoping to find a locally available or more common thread locking compound to use

anyone out there used red locktite or something similar?

Also the inner water jacket cover that fits around the exhaust ports is warped about .060 in the length of it and was hoping to uses some gasket sealer of some kind to increase my chances of it sealing,

Anyone out the use any black or red silicone on this inner water jacket cover, how hot dose this part get? I do have a mercury gasket to go back together with.

I understand that in a perfect world on a perfect part no gasket sealer is required on most gaskets but I am looking to increase my odds a little? And yes it would be nice to find a new straight part but i have been unable to locate anything better,

Some of the long story is the original water jacket cover was cracked and warped .125 and I took it to down to a local welding shop to have the crack repaired along with the baffle plate to have them fill in some of the corrosion and what I got back was a more of a mess than what I started with so after two months of looking, I found replacements on eBay for the inner water jacket cover and baffle plate and have them in hand hoping to make them work, the baffle plate looks grate just slight warp in the water jacket cover. this headache is getting costly :facepalm:

Water jacket cover part number is 55200

Thanks you

Jason

 

[CharlieB]

Re: Water jacket cover/ baffle plate install tower of power

NEVER use red locktite into aluminum, you will almost have to MELT the alum to get it to release without pulling all the thread out of the block.

Silicone can be a great sealant, the problem is most use way too much and put it together too wet. ANY imperfection in the parts and the gasket spits out like a tiddly-wink, tearing and ruining the gasket, and leaving those huge goober-looking blobs of silicone hanging in and out of the motor. Yuck.

IF, you elect to use silicone, spread it on the gasket a THIN as possible, and I mean barely enough to see. Both sides of the gasket, then let it hang and dry for at least 20 minutes or more before installing. This way it will still have enough 'give' to fill in imperfections in surfaces, yet not be slick.

The inner plate of the exhaust is covered with water on one side, exhaust on the other, it should never even reach boiling temps.

 

[Jhoppy]

Re: Water jacket cover/ baffle plate install tower of power

Thanks Charlie B

That was kinda my thought to on the Inner plate should not get very hot and 400 sealant of some type would be enough to do the job.

 

[Texasmark]

Re: Water jacket cover/ baffle plate install tower of power

If these two guys don't steer you in the right direction, no one can, not even me.....big ha ha. Seriously listen to them.

Mark

 

[Texasmark]

Re: Water jacket cover/ baffle plate install tower of power

Thanks Charlie B

That was kinda my thought to on the Inner plate should not get very hot and 400 sealant of some type would be enough to do the job.

Posting this after the credits I just posted: This is not like the exhaust manifold on an automobile. Air cooled, they could run 400F or so. This sucker has exhaust on one side and cooling water on the other, across a piece of alum about 1/4" thick. Cooling water is like whatever the ambient water temp is plus a few degrees, ok, on a hot summer day say it's 130 max. Across the alum plate you aren't going to see more than 10 or so degrees, so you are dealing with 150F. Water boils at 212F at sea level. Do we have a bench mark established?

Mark

 

[wired247]

Re: Water jacket cover/ baffle plate install tower of power

The Right Stuff works just fine for that application.

 

[Jhoppy]

Re: Water jacket cover/ baffle plate install tower of power

Thanks to all I now have it up and running with no signs of water getting back into the cylinders

I did use a thin coat of right stuff gasket sealer on the inner water jacket cover, new stainless steel bolts and lock washers red locktite as i am not to worried about removing it, torqued to 137 inch pounds as my book says 150 and the forum said 125 I split the difference started at the center and worked my way out.

On the baffle plate I laid it on the block with no gasket as a test fit and found it to high center on the inner water jacket cover so I sanded the baffle plate down to the point it no longer touched the inner water jacket cover as I have read that expansion of the aluminum in this area can cause the baffle plate to push away from the block and it will leak around the perimeter or the baffle plate. The baffle plate and cover were then installed with high tack to position the gaskets and were torqued to 150 inch pounds with blue locktite

Thank you all

Hoppy