Water on piston (Hydrolock)

[billbayliner]

I am usually the one helping but my issue has me finally ask other mechanics their opinion so I can get a fresh point of view...

2000 Maxum 4.3 VORTEC Bravo 2 (Fresh water boat)

Issue... Water in cylinder 1, 3 and 4.... NOTHING IN OIL...
Issue originated 3 years ago after purchasing the boat when I wet to start and was hydro locked. No water in oil and with my experience on the issue, as 95% of the time the exhaust manifolds need replacing..... Seems fine for the rest of summer.

2 Summers ago:
Tore the exhausts, risers, and elbows out again for inspection and had the risers machined to make sure they were square and reinstalled with OEM gaskets. "SEEMED" to do the trick. Pressure tested the engine cooling system and held leak down test

LAST SUMMER:
Bummer of a summer with COVID locking up the borders no boating and was in storage.

Spring Start Up:
Muffs on drive just so the impeller was not raw and went to turn the engine over to get some oil pressure before starting..... hydrolocked!!!

Now I am worried...... Was the water in the cylinders for over a year?...... Today I tore the engine down to a short block and was relieved that the cylinders were fine but a cup of water in cylinder 1, 3 and 4.....

So now I go through everything and see absolutely no signs of where the water was coming from.... All gaskets showed no evidence of leak by.... Heads are true and flat... ETC....

Question for all you Techs as I have never run across a bad intake manifold being an issue of water intrusion but maybe someone has? There was a Bulletin on intake manifold but it was crack in valley and water incorporating into the oil pan...

Once again, sometimes you need some other opinions as sometimes the problem is staring you right in the face...

 

[tpenfield]

Since you tore the engine down, there is not a lot that you can tell beyond visual inspection.

Intake manifold is a possibility as are valve guides (maybe). It is interesting that the engine held a cooling system pressure test a couple of years ago. It would have been nice to see if it still held pressure before you tore it apart

Since you have water on both sides of the engine, I'd suspect the intake more than the heads or exhaust at this point.

 

[Scott Danforth]

agree with Ted, since you tore it down and didnt pressure test prior, all you can do now is visually look

bad elbow joint manifolds?
heads rusted thru?

was there water in the exhaust passages of the exhaust manifolds?
are the valves/exhaust ports nice and black from soot or rusty?

 

[Rick Stephens]

Any possibility you had rain water get in via carburetor?

 

[billbayliner]

Well i'm in a jam!!!! That's putting in MILDLY.....

Put a table in the back today and got my magnifying glass lamp out along with LED lamp.....

Intake is indeed cracked in the valley...... AGAIN WTF.... I immediately went into the engine compartment and AGAIN checked the oil and was clean...

Do a better inspection of the cylinder walls with LED magnifying lamp and Fck.... I have to pull engine and bore cylinders....

Would be easier just to buy a rebuilt long block because I am past the age of, once again, getting excited over rebuilding an engine.... Best option would be picking up a Michigan Motorz new engine for $3300... (great price!)

So now I need everyone's help once again......
I am locked down in Canada because of COVID ..... I usually spend my time between Canada and the U.S.... This means my options are limited being here in Canada.... Cannot find an engine under $9000 so am going to rebuild as I can ship in kits from U.S.....

AGAIN... I do NOT want to bring a block to a machine shop.... Hot tanked.... Magnifluxed .... and bored over....

Does anyone know an engine reman company that ships across the border?

Another question..... I know many in the forum are engine nuts, and have so much knowledge regarding which engines can be swapped from automotive vehicles to marine.... Any ideas? (2000 Merc 4.3 Vortec engine in my vessel)

I took a look at RockAuto as they ship over here but I cannot find the long blocks many talk about.....

I am all ears to everyones ideas...... (Already checked for used engines and I am not a fan of used engines)

Let me give an example of the issues I face..... It would take me days just to get assembly lube because of lockdown.... I ordered a timing light yesterday for curbside pickup and still not ready to be picked up...

NO IDEA IS A BAD IDEA......

Worst case scenario, I will purchase a master rebuild kit from the U.S and dig in....

 

[Scott06]

Well i'm in a jam!!!! That's putting in MILDLY.....

Put a table in the back today and got my magnifying glass lamp out along with LED lamp.....

Intake is indeed cracked in the valley...... AGAIN WTF.... I immediately went into the engine compartment and AGAIN checked the oil and was clean...

Do a better inspection of the cylinder walls with LED magnifying lamp and Fck.... I have to pull engine and bore cylinders....

Would be easier just to buy a rebuilt long block because I am past the age of, once again, getting excited over rebuilding an engine.... Best option would be picking up a Michigan Motorz new engine for $3300... (great price!)

So now I need everyone's help once again......
I am locked down in Canada because of COVID ..... I usually spend my time between Canada and the U.S.... This means my options are limited being here in Canada.... Cannot find an engine under $9000 so am going to rebuild as I can ship in kits from U.S.....

AGAIN... I do NOT want to bring a block to a machine shop.... Hot tanked.... Magnifluxed .... and bored over....

Does anyone know an engine reman company that ships across the border?

Another question..... I know many in the forum are engine nuts, and have so much knowledge regarding which engines can be swapped from automotive vehicles to marine.... Any ideas? (2000 Merc 4.3 Vortec engine in my vessel)

I took a look at RockAuto as they ship over here but I cannot find the long blocks many talk about.....

I am all ears to everyones ideas...... (Already checked for used engines and I am not a fan of used engines)

Let me give an example of the issues I face..... It would take me days just to get assembly lube because of lockdown.... I ordered a timing light yesterday for curbside pickup and still not ready to be picked up...

NO IDEA IS A BAD IDEA......

Worst case scenario, I will purchase a master rebuild kit from the U.S and dig in....

I bought a partial engine package ( new base plus intake carb ignition) from michigan motorz six years ago. That was the way to go, its run great since then no issues. They also sell reman engines as well, but for a single engine not much cost differnce between reman and new

 

[Scott Danforth]

Any company can ship to canada. Just have to pay customs charges. However, i would pull a longblock from a S10 truck

 

[Bobzen]

that's exactly where i'm at, water leaked thru intake manifold,got CyL 1,3,5 locked
all the rest is absolutely fine but rebuild is not my 1st choice, so basically looking for a short or long block & put the rest of my parts on it

 

[billbayliner]

Well I broke down and bought a remaned long block..... Needed the piece of mind....

On another note..... I have a top end gasket kit for the 4.3 but am going to require a lower. Anyone know a lower gasket kit part number that includes a pan gasket along with timing cover, water pump gasket, etc?

Thanks everyone

 

[Bobzen]

find what matches your block & I would highly recommend Fel-Pro. truly the best i've seen so far !

 

[Scott Danforth]

Well I broke down and bought a remaned long block..... Needed the piece of mind....

On another note..... I have a top end gasket kit for the 4.3 but am going to require a lower. Anyone know a lower gasket kit part number that includes a pan gasket along with timing cover, water pump gasket, etc?

Thanks everyone

any 4.3 gasket set for the 1996 and later 4.3. preferably felpro

 

[billbayliner]

You still one of the best Scott..... Glad your still hanging around the forum...