Weird issue - Engine (I/O Merc 3.0) won't turn over

FlatBlack

Cadet
Joined
Apr 16, 2013
Messages
15
I've created an impressive mess of issues, this will be a long post.

I have a 1986 Sunbird I/O bowrider 175 that runs awesome. It's been super reliable for the past 4 seasons. We took it out yesterday and had a pretty good day on the lake until the engine stalled while towing a wakeboarder.

I put a brand new deep cycle marine battery in the boat a few months ago, and I've only been out twice since I did that.

Nothing was wrong with the boat all day until the ignition switch loosened up the nut that attaches it to the dash and started spinning when we'd turn the engine on. The dash wiring is pretty janky, so we were having some intermittent electric cutouts on the dash gauges, but besides that everything was running fine. When I went to ride with my wife driving, the engine started cutting out (I'm 95% sure that the ignition switch connection caused this) and then died. She said it felt like it was running out of gas (we had half a tank left)

The boat wouldn't start up even after I messed with the wiring, it cranked a few times then sounded like a dead battery. We got another boat to give us a jump (and eventually tow us in) but the engine just completely stopped turning over, like the battery was completely sapped.

So today, I take the dash apart and fix the rats nets of spaghetti wires, and try to 'bench test' starting the boat with the dash still apart. I fixed the intermittent power issue, but the battery still is acting dead. I put it on the slow charger, and get the battery out of my car. It's doing the same thing where it sounds like it's dead, it just cranks a little bit, not even a full engine rotation, even though the battery is 100% good. I used the old shadetree mechanic trick of jumping the post of the battery to the solenoid, and it did the same thing. The engine isn't spinning over anymore.

I fear that somehow the engine is trashed, even though it was running like a champ all day yesterday.

I check the oil, it's fine - then I pull the spark plugs (they are about two seasons old). The plugs look nice and there isn't any water on the pistons. I pulled the starter and turned the engine over with the flywheel, and it's not seized. It's a little tougher to turn over than I'm expecting, though.

I ordered a new starter, I'm hoping that's the culprit but it seems super odd that it would fail at the same exact time as the other issue. Hopefully I won't have to pull my head but if the new starter doesn't work I guess I'll have to have a look inside.

Any advice or tips are appreciated.
 

FlatBlack

Cadet
Joined
Apr 16, 2013
Messages
15
I did not. The gearcase oil was changed last season but I didn't think about that. It's easy enough to remove I guess. Shouldn't it be disengaged in neutral though?
 

Pete104

Lieutenant
Joined
Apr 30, 2011
Messages
1,439
I did not. The gearcase oil was changed last season but I didn't think about that. It's easy enough to remove I guess. Shouldn't it be disengaged in neutral though?

You want the shifter in forward gear.
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,344
everything down to the pinion gear in the lower unit is always turning with the engine. Check the drive oil level and condition
 

FlatBlack

Cadet
Joined
Apr 16, 2013
Messages
15
I was able to drain the outdrive before work this morning. There was lots of gear oil in there and no water came out, but the oil had some crap in there. I'm not sure how to describe it - it had the honey color of new oil sometimes, but sometimes it would get dark and I put some on my fingers to check it and there was some darkness to it. It wasn't metal shavings or anything chunky, so maybe it's just normal use. I have two seasons on that gear oil.

I suppose that my next step (if the starter isn't bad) is to pull the outdrive and see if it'll run without it. If that's the case I'll pull the OD apart to see if the lower unit is salvageable.

Thanks for the advice everyone. Does that sound like normal used oil for an outdrive? I work on cars mostly and I've never really seen differential fluid that looked like that.
 

Starcraft5834

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 2, 2013
Messages
1,677
best practice to change your gear oil at every season's end.. or at least pump fresh through it to drive out water/oil mix.. "honey color" is indicative of water intrusion... will that cause lower to blow up? unlikely given your explanation... outdrives that give out usually accompanied by a noise you wont forget.. grinding, clicking, crunching... your starter is probably shot is all...
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,344
Before you drained it did you check the level? Should have draind about 1 -1/2 Qts of oil
 

Alumarine

Captain
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
3,738
"honey color" is indicative of water intrusion...

I think it depends on what type of honey you're refering to.
Liquid honey would look clear and golden while creamed honey would look like oil with water in it.

In any case, it doesn't sound like the OP is using Mercury gear oil.

Maybe take the starter in to a parts store that tests that type of thing.
Don't buy a car starter though. Only marine rated.
 

FlatBlack

Cadet
Joined
Apr 16, 2013
Messages
15
Bought a marine rated starter (It's a short/long bolt Mercruiser type) that should arrive this week.

https://www.amazon.com/Mercruiser-Marine-Starter-Long-Short-Mount/dp/B00KGIBXZM

Honey might not have been a good descriptor. It was blue tinted and 'normal' like what we put in the outdrive, minus the new dark stuff. It was probably due for a change. My oil pan was empty this morning, so I'll go drain it into an empty oil quart bottle. If I had to guess there had to have been at least a full quart.
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,344
But did you remove the upper oil level plug to see where the oil level was.?
 

FlatBlack

Cadet
Joined
Apr 16, 2013
Messages
15
I removed the plug but only so the fluid would drain more quickly. If the outdrive failed catastrophically I would assume I'd see metal shavings and really junky oil.
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,344
If oil did not come out when you removed the plug and you did not insert some type of measuring device(wire,weed stem,straw, etc) to see where the oil level was you could have been quite low and started to seize the upper bearings without destroying them to create metal particles.
 

FlatBlack

Cadet
Joined
Apr 16, 2013
Messages
15
Yall had me genuinely concerned that I had trashed my outdrive :lol:

Threw the new starter in there and it fired right up.

I put new Mercruiser (Quicksilver) blue outdrive oil in, but it wouldn't even take a full quart. Is that normal? I had an ounce or two left in the bottle but oil was coming back out of the fill hole
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,082
I put new Mercruiser (Quicksilver) blue outdrive oil in, but it wouldn't even take a full quart. Is that normal? I had an ounce or two left in the bottle but oil was coming back out of the fill hole

Ayuh,.... Ya pump it in from the bottom, til it comes out the top,...

Should take just over a qt, 'n 1/2,....
 
Top