Re: What do you see with my tore down motor?
.02 is in reference to how much the cylinder has enlarged due to high usage. A 4.3L or 5.7L engine start off life with a 3.99" bore (most people round it up to 4.00"). If you honestly intend on re-using this engine, a machine shop can measure the bores to determine if standard sized pistons can be installed after the cylinders are re-honed, or if an overbore is needed. You can usually get a visual for the condition of the cylinders by checking 2 things. Are there still crosshatches in the cylinder walls from the factory honing? Is there a ridge of metal at the top of the cylinders? In any case, if you really intend on reusing this engine, it will need a trip down to the machine shop for a professional check over. Here are the prices from my favorite machine shop. Your prices may be a little less since you have a V6.
Oven Clean, Shot Blast & Mag Block
$100
Bore & Hone Block with Torque Plate
$325
Deck V-8 Block
$150
Align Hone Main Line
$150
Resize V-8 rods (per 8)
$150
Install pistons on rods v-8 (8)
$50
Crank Work:
Grind V-8 Crank
$225
Balance V-8 Full Assembly
$350
That's a total of 1500 bucks for just the lower end work, even if you were to shave $500 off because its a V6, or you find a cheaper machine shop, that's still allot of money! That doesn't even cover the price of pistons, rings, bearings, oil pump, camshaft, lifters, timing set, core plugs, harmonic balancer, water pump, hardware, gaskets, etc.
Next after you have all that lower end work done, do you really want to bolt a set of worn heads with questionable mileage on the engine? Here is a ball park on head work cost;
Oven Clean, Shot Blast & Mag Heads
$40 Each
V-8 Three angle Valve Job, blend bowls
$225
Deck Head up to .010" cut
$75 each
Install New Guides V-8 Heads (16 guides)
$120
Assemble v-8 heads and set up spring heights
$80
That comes out to $655, again V8 prices, so say you take 150-200 bucks off. Your looking at 450-500 in head work, not including parts.
I don't know what you have seen for prices on a long block, but considering you may be dropping well into 2K if not 3K for parts and machine work to put this engine back together right with no warranty in the end, a long block with a warranty would be the way to go!
As for the manifolds, flappers, hoses, etc. If they are in rough shape, or questionable then replace them as necessary. A long block comes with heads. If you were getting a short block, that would mean it was a lower end with out heads.