What now?

[jhodge]

86 3 cyl 60hp engine Ser#931265
Engine would not start when I bought it. Misfire only. Checked the stator and found it defective. Replaced the stator and at the same time cleaned the carbs. Found the main jet missing in the top carb. Replaced it. Checked and cleaned wiring, trigger, fuel enrichment solenoid. Got it all back together today and tried starting. Backfired once and misfired several times. When I enriched the carbs there was no misfire or backfire,just uninterrrupted cranking. Shut it down and checked the stator and it is ok.
When I replaced the stator the old stator was a CDI with the open coils and the new one was a Sierra was the encapsulated coils, so not sure that the new stator was in the same exact position as the old one. How can I determine the correct position for the stator, I just kinda put it so the wiring worked for hooking up to the switch box (blue and red wires). Is the stator position critical, since its only ignition function is to send an AC charge to the switch box, which is rectified and stored in a capacitor?
I am guessing now, but the flywheel position is critical for the triggers to be in time. Right? I check this by using a dial indicaror in #1 cyl and locating the .464 inch mark? The manual says to move the pointer, but if way off I suspect that I need to move the flywheel. Is this correct? Am I missing something? Thanks JH

 

[jhodge]

Re: What now?

Any help with my timing question? If it were my ole chev 283 I would know what to do, but this two cycle capacitive discharge system is foreign to me and am not sure about just how it works and what to look for if way out of time. Thanks JH

 

[jhodge]

Re: What now?

Did some more reading of the manual last night and see that I should check out the coils. Also read Jasons thread on his 9.9 Merc problem. Makes me feel good, that those with obviously more smarts on this topic, to be a bit stumped with some problems. I see that he used a timing light to check out the timing of spark on #1 cylinder. Can I do that also with this 60 hp 3 cyl engine? I don't have a dial indicator and can't seem to locate one locally, without selling my firstborn for the price. Going to Portland this weekend and will see if HF is open for a cheapie.
Reed valves? Exactly what are their function? Stop pulses back into the carbs from the crankcase? How do you check them out? Also with this 3 cyl 2 carb setup what is the intake manifold setup like? Does both carbs serve all three cylinders or is there some sort of a split between the carbs and cylinders? I noticed that the main jets were slightly different between the top and bottom carbs, so am assuming maybe the one with larger jet serves two cyls, but really have no idea. Thanks for any info. JH

 

[jhodge]

Re: What now?

Ok, problem solved. The timing was ok. I can say that because after checking the wiring diagrams against the engine I discovered that the switchbox to coil wires had been switched for the #2 and #3 cylinders. So #1 was firing and #2 and #3 were misfirng. Now it runs fine. Still need to do the timing, link and sync procedure to get it in top shape. But first, I think I need to replace the impeller. With muffs on water squirts out the exhaust around the prop and a bit sputters out of two openings just under the power head, but nothing out the pee hose. At idle, I let it run probably 30 seconds. Is that long enuf, and fast enuf for water to reach the top to come out the pee hose? Will start a new thread on this topic after doing a search. Been nice talking to myself. Have a good day. JH

 

[James R]

Re: What now?

You were going in the right direction without any help. Good job.
If the impeller was not replaced very recently then replace it. Impellers are the Achilles heel of outboards. Bad impeller or water flow, blown motor.
Running a water flow test using muffs does not tell if the pump is working correctly. You are using faucet pressure. Need to immerse the lower in a tub past the pump level. Tell tale nozzles and hoses get blocked frequently. Take a piece of trimmer line and feed it up the nozzle with the motor running. This and the pump pressure usually clears the tell tale.

 

[jhodge]

Re: What now?

Thanks James R. I have already done as you suggested, as per my next thread on 'Telltale'. I have a new impeller on hand and was going to install it but the tank test of the impeller showed good flow although variable flow when very low rpms. I appreciated your response. JH

 

[James R]

Re: What now?

You should get a continuous flow even at idle. Scoring of the pump baseplate or the cup is often ignored and this causes bad pump pressure. Poor sealing of the pump housing or a bad watertube seal at the pump outlet are also possible issues. If at anytime an impeller fails, pieces have a habit of blocking the water ways in the block.

 

[jhodge]

Re: What now?

OK James R, I get the picture. I do have a new impeller on hand but would have to order any additional parts. As soon as I get the timing, link and synk and lower unit lube changed, I will check out the impeller and make the needed changes. One question that no one has answered is if the sputtering of water from the two rectangular holes just below the spark plugs on the aft of the engine is normal. Its not a lot of water, kinda like a mist but gets the garage floor wet when running in a 30 gal trash can. Thanks JH

 

[jhodge]

Re: What now?< Follow up>

Re: What now?< Follow up>

Its running good on muffs and in a tank. Gonna take it out tomarrow afternoon to do the final check on the max spark advance. Been seeing some recommendation to set the max spark a couple degrees back to help compensate for the ethanol in the fuel. Can make that adjustment under actual operating conditions.
So, either the exact position of the stator is not critical or I was lucky and got it in the right position when I installed it.
When the telltale was fluctuating with engine speed, the engine was idleing at a very low rpm. Now that the carbs are adjusted and set to a normal idle speed there is a consistant flow. Still need to change the impeller and lower unit oil. Then look out salmon here I come. Thanks to those that have replied to my various threads. Also I would recommend that if you plan on keepding your engine, buy a manual preferably the Mercury one. Kinda expensive, but will save you in the long run and makes a nice addition when you do sell. Have a good day JH