What order for gasket & wear plate on '68 engine 75HP water pump

[DocForker]

The kit I got from Franz looks like this one (it is not the '68 original): http://www.ebay.com/itm/NIB-Force-7...-1-Outboard-/291195117495?hash=item43cc94dfb7

1. Gasket goes between the wear plate and the water pump body (it does not fit well here as it does not seal align near exit port and it would seem to interfere with the impeller - I don't think this is the correct location).


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- or -

2. Gasket goes between gearbox housing & wear plate (this is where it fits best - but I don't see the point for sealing this side)

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Also additional questions:

1. where should I use the 847 sealant? (I'm thinking metal to metal and metal to gasket joints - gearbox to gasket to wear plate & wear plate to Water Pump housing)
2. where should I use Evinrude Gasket Sealing Compound? (I'm thinking water pump bolt threads)
3. Is there something (like Aladdin 631 Magic Lube teflon compound) that I should wipe the inside of the pump housing that will soak into the cast metal and make it slick? Even though it is brand new cast metal it just feels dry and not slick.

 

[CApTaInGoOfy]

I just resealed my lower as well as a new impeller and housing on a 83 45hp. I bought the whole water pump kit impeller housing and all and didn't have a gasket like that. Even when I replaced it before never had a gasket. There is a sticky on this forum a detailed step by step impeller change you should check it out if you haven't.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi.../237589-step-by-step-impeller-change?t=231685
Good luck and definitely don't forget anti-seize on those bolts.

 

[Nordin]

Doc.... use antisize compound at the bolts (if Evinrude gasket sealing compound is antisize .....yes).
I do not know what purpose this product have but it sounds to me it has the same as the 847 (gasket sealing compound)


About the impeller housing, gasket between the LU and the stainless steel wearplate then you use the 847 sealant at the surface between the wearplate and the impeller housing.
Countning from LU, first the gasket, then the wearplate then the impeller and then impeller housing with gasket sealant at the surface of the housing to the wearplate.

Lube the impeller with soap just to make it easier to fit into the housing.

 

[jerryjerry05]

IF??? your in salt water??
​Anti-seize turns into perma seize.
​Use grease on the bolts as you want them to be able to come back out.
ANY sealer will cause trouble.

Gasket under the wear plate.
IF?? it doesn't fit? don't use it.
​A bit of silicone and smear it around the edges will seal the plate.
No need to use any sealers.
I grease(marine grease) the vanes of the impeller and a bit on the inside of the housing.
The water acts as lube once you get it going.

Grease the seal on the top of the pump.
Grease the splines on the shaft.

 

[DocForker]

Great info - thanks so much. Yes the bolts that came out we're pretty nasty. In fact the entire had heavily corroded/seized bolts with lots of salt kreep.

I've read in these forums that the Evinrude compound is non hardening and helps prevent seizure - but you say if I'm in saltwater (Seattle) to just us grease?

Here were the bolts: https://goo.gl/photos/ABUcDcWhapqubS7K8

 

[jerryjerry05]

I use grease on all bolts even head bolts.

But you also need to prep the screws and the holes before reassembly.
Bought a thread chaser kit from Snap On back in the mid 80's $30
​It's one of my most used tools.
It takes a few extra minutes(sometimes hours) but well worth the aggravation.

 

[DocForker]

That's just a tap and die set right? I just need to make sure I pick the correct thread/size.

 

[jerryjerry05]

It's like a T@D set.
​I think the pump bolts are 1/4-20
On most parts diagrams, when you look up the bolts it usually has the size listed.

 

[DocForker]

What's the recommendation for parts diagram and service guide for this engine. So far I've just been using forum and YouTube, but I think I'm going to have to pull the piston to loosen a stuck ring.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Finding a factory manual for something that old????
That's not gonna be easy.
​I have trouble finding parts diagrams for the older ones too.
The good thing is they didn't change much through those years 60-mid 70's
​The mechanical end(pistons etc) were all about the same.

​The electronics were where they made the changes.

If you take anything apart, take lots of pics and mark the parts.

​Since it's a 60's model??? the screws and bolts have been in there a LONG time and might be hard to remove.
​If you don't need to don't remove the exhaust chest the screws holding that on will probably twist right off and cause a TON of work.

 

[Nordin]

For parts diagram and service manual check Ebay. It might show up there now and then.
Another source is the Chrysler crew website, but there will be more money for it there.

Jerryjerry is right about the changing during the years mecanic not so much (I know they change the pistons and rods late 60:es. Early had three rings and later two and the rod bearing in the piston).