What To Prime/Paint Out Drive With

[jws123]

Recently picked up a boat with a bavo 3 drive owner didnt take care of the drive paint wise. It has a lot of corrosion i sanded it all down cleaned it up has 1 scary spot on lower unit near prop beginnings of a small crack from corrosion but its not thru and thru yet and does not leak. I will be slipping the boat salt water so i need to know what to prime it with and paint it how many coats ect. I want to do it right so i dont destroy whats left of the drive when i slip it in summer.

 

[jws123]

Just ordered primer with zinc but looking at other threads/sites everyone has their own opinion on what to paint it with.. lmk what u guys have used/like.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Just use something of quality. Once you have a solid base coat you are golden.

 

[RaceCarRich]

I researched this to death last season. There is a mercruiser recommended method which includes multiple coats of expensive and hard to source chemicals.

I sanded my B3 (tedious work), hit it with green zinc phosphate primer followed by black outdrive paint. After a season in brackish water followed by power washing it still looks lousy. Primer showing in a couple small spots, barnacle rings that will probably take the paint with them if sanded, etc.

I don’t think there is an easy resilient solution that will look good for years. Everything on a boat is in a state of constant decay.

If I were to do it again, I would put anti fouling paint on top of the outdrive paint.

Noodles of knowledge that others can expand upon:
Only use sandpaper with aluminum oxide grit.
Primer any bare aluminum within an hour or so of sanding as the bare aluminum develops a film (oxide?) when exposed to air. I did a quick final sand of any bare areas followed by cleaning with a prepaint prepping (cleaning) agent repeating until the wiping towels stayed clean.
I believe some recommended filling deep pits with Marinetex.
Leave as much of any sound factory finish as possible.

 

[jws123]

I researched this to death last season. There is a mercruiser recommended method which includes multiple coats of expensive and hard to source chemicals.

I sanded my B3 (tedious work), hit it with green zinc phosphate primer followed by black outdrive paint. After a season in brackish water followed by power washing it still looks lousy. Primer showing in a couple small spots, barnacle rings that will probably take the paint with them if sanded, etc.

I don’t think there is an easy resilient solution that will look good for years. Everything on a boat is in a state of constant decay.

If I were to do it again, I would put anti fouling paint on top of the outdrive paint.

Noodles of knowledge that others can expand upon:
Only use sandpaper with aluminum oxide grit.
Primer any bare aluminum within an hour or so of sanding as the bare aluminum develops a film (oxide?) when exposed to air. I did a quick final sand of any bare areas followed by cleaning with a prepaint prepping (cleaning) agent repeating until the wiping towels stayed clean.
I believe some recommended filling deep pits with Marinetex.
Leave as much of any sound factory finish as possible.

thanks i was to thinking of fixing a few areas with marine tex before paint. Probably will do it this way then prime it good paint and then i guess use anti fouling looks expensive tho $40 a can but if it works..

 

[Scott06]

Look into PPG DP 90 epoxy primer. You need a gun to shoot it but should be available at auto body supply houses

msd58 May have some tips for you -
google bravo 3 corrosion its more than just paint the crack you see down by your bearing carrier is likely from corrosion.

i think he added a second mercathode with transom pucks and that solved issue of electrolysis due to stainless props on aluminum drive

 

[jws123]

Look into PPG DP 90 epoxy primer. You need a gun to shoot it but should be available at auto body supply houses

msd58 May have some tips for you -
google bravo 3 corrosion its more than just paint the crack you see down by your bearing carrier is likely from corrosion.

i think he added a second mercathode with transom pucks and that solved issue of electrolysis due to stainless props on aluminum drive

Thanks and yes it is due to corrosion i will look into a mercathode never needed one tho what one should i get?

 

[msd58]

You want the puck style that go on transom. You may be able to use the existing head unit that comes standard. It really helps. It will also help preserve your transom assy. In addition only use Quicksilver brand anodes. In addition - of you don't have prop nut anode get one

 

[tank1949]

Recently picked up a boat with a bavo 3 drive owner didnt take care of the drive paint wise. It has a lot of corrosion i sanded it all down cleaned it up has 1 scary spot on lower unit near prop beginnings of a small crack from corrosion but its not thru and thru yet and does not leak. I will be slipping the boat salt water so i need to know what to prime it with and paint it how many coats ect. I want to do it right so i dont destroy whats left of the drive when i slip it in summer.

We learned decades ago to never leave aluminum ODs in saltwater, since they don't like electrical currents. No matter what you paint on it, stray currents, vibrations, dings, etc., aluminum ODs will cause you nightmarish expenses if left in salt water. OMCs were the worst. Please dry store it or go purchase and extra drive. I am sorry!!!!!! Good luck and make sure that you weld up crack. My experiences in welding heavily salt water exposed aluminum cracks has not been good.