What type of oil should I use?

shermanator83

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6cyl mercruiser .. Looks like the original engine. Boat is a 1970 Newman. Weather is Southern California climate.
Was wondering if anybody had any recommendations on what type of oil should be used? I can't remember how many hours were on this engine prior.. Any recommendations?
 

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Scott Danforth

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10w-30, 10w-40, 15w-40, 20w-50, makw sure you get an oil that has zinc. I use Rotella T4 15w-40 diesel oil
 

Scott Danforth

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there are thousands of oil threads on this site so not to start another one.

current automotive oil is not for flat tappet cams like your motor has, so no, you cant just go to wally world and grab any old oil. I use the diesel oil because it still has zinc. oil with zinc you can use on an old flat-tappet motor with non-hardened valve seats and guides
 

Lou C

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The only stuff I'd use, is:
Merc 25/40, formulated for marine engines, great stuff, I have a story about this and corrosion or lack of the same
Delo or Rotella in 15w/40, also better than normal car oil, I'd like to see a test between this and the Merc stuff, to see which one holds is viscosity better over time.

Any of the other car based lower vis oils I would not consider using in a marine inboard. The later models with roller cams are more tolerant of oil, but still they are running at high revs all the time.
 

QBhoy

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Oh jeez...there are many answers...most correct, but you won’t go wrong with quicksilver synthetic blend oil with that engine. Personally I’m not a fan of the standard quicksilver 25/40, having tested it through oil analysis lab after a season of 75 hours. It’s break down was horrendous.
Over here in the U.K...rock oil MP oil is about the best there is marine wise.
 

Lou C

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Interesting, I tested the Merc 25/40 oil vs Delo straight 40 and it performed as well, on a Blackstone analysis.
 

HT32BSX115

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Cool Thanks .. There's a difference between this oil and regular automotive oil too? Correct?

Howdy,

Welcome aboard!!


In general there's not a huge difference. At least, for SAE since they don't actually certify marine oils. Marine engines aren't really much different (internally) than an automotive engine so the oils don't really change much.

If you want to read a little about the actual NMMA 4-stroke "Marine" engine oil certification process, go to

https://www.nmma.org/certification/oil/fc-w

NMMA FC-W oil is really intended for marine engines (and 4-stroke outboard motors) that will be literally left in salt water year round. They actually have an additive package and formulation that is "better" (in a moist, salt environment) than regular automotive oils.

But, since marine engines usually die for reasons other than oil.........(as long as you change it) .......nearly every brand and type of automotive oil has been tried with generally satisfactory results.

If you want to be a "purist" then by all means, for a Mercruiser, use a Mercruser or other branded FC-W oil.

Regardless of what you use, change it once a year or so and you'll be just fine!

Cheers,

Rick
 

Lou C

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Rick you've already heard this story, but I found the superior corrosion resistance to be a good thing. Two blown HGs, in salt water.
 

HT32BSX115

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Rick you've already heard this story, but I found the superior corrosion resistance to be a good thing. Two blown HGs, in salt water.

I will agree with you on this one of course...... FC-W oils were designed specifically to help with corrosion!

But I think fogging might be better at preventing corrosion in the HG's where they're exposed in the combustion chambers over an engine oil....I would hope there's not a lot of engine oil in the cyls after shutdown....
 

Lou C

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Yep if you are in a damp climate as I am where condensation is a big problem, you really have to fog an engine left outside not used for 6 months. My yard equipment I keep garaged and in a shed so I don't have to fog them. When I took the old heads off I found two stuck valves.
Here's the interesting thing. Before the HGs blew, the last oil analysis I did in the fall showed a bit of salt (from cooling water) in the oil but very little. Well that spring, I heard a backfire thru the carb, when starting up, it ran a bit rough then smoothed out. I bet that was the beginning of the leaky head gaskets and may have caused some valve stem corrosion over the winter even tho it was fogged as usual. It ran fine, till I got water in a cyl at the end of Aug '16. But when I took it apart, very little corrosion anywhere. In this pic of the starboard head taken off, you can see one valve stuck open (its flipped around, the odd thing is the cyl what had water is the front one # 2, those valves were not stuck, it was the exhaust valve on #6. Just light rust in the combustion chamber of the head on #2, cyl walls and pistons were clean.
 

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