For a change, this isn't something I've stuffed up. Yet.<br /><br />I'd like to know the right way to do this instead of creating another problem when the drill bit wanders off centre and bites into the surrounding material and leaves the shank in etc etc. Or I break the screw extractor (also known absurdly as an Ezy Out), which is harder than any bit, and there's no meat left in the shank to work with. Now I'm stuffed, so I just ruin everything drilling and hacking it out and hope JB Weld and/or helicoils will perform their usual magic.<br /><br />A lot of the problem is that I can't get heat onto the shank, which is flush with or below the surrounding material, without risking melting the alloy around it. Also I can't get any penetrating fluid in there. So I'm trying to budge a frozen shank.<br /><br />I've got a stainless steel 1/4" shank left in the hole of an alloy gearcase where the head had broken off before I got it. <br /><br />Can't put it in a drill press so it'll be a hand held power drill. Or maybe I should start with a hand drill for better control?<br /><br />This is what I normally do but it ain't always successful.<br /><br />I have a spring centre punch that puts a tiny hole on mild steel (and less on stainless) but do it a few times and it puts a bigger hole there, which I then make bigger with a normal punch hit with a hammer. About this stage we're often already starting to wander a bit off centre as the hammer hit punch seems to move a bit sideways.<br /><br />Then a thin bit about 3/32" (I usually break them if they're much smaller no matter how careful I am) for a pilot hole and then a bigger bit.<br /><br />I use a cobalt bit.<br /><br />Then the screw extractor, which has a good chance of breaking and now I'm stuffed again.<br /><br />Anybody got any advice on how I could do it better?