Yes, plugs out but boots on plugs and plugs grounded and you should have the "kill-wire" grounding by ignition-key in off position./ safety-switch disconnected
Thanks, guys. How come when I look up compression tests for electric outboards videos online, it shows the guy removing all boots, then all spark plugs, putting spark plugs aside, and then just cranking the engine going one by one with a compression gauge? I don’t see any grounding or anything.
Grounding the spark plug leads keeps the voltage from going high enough to damage the insulation of the coils. Probably will be OK, but if not and the insulation tracks or cracks then you just have to replace the coil, module or whatever else is damaged.
Probably OK...
Thanks, guys. How come when I look up compression tests for electric outboards videos online, it shows the guy removing all boots, then all spark plugs, putting spark plugs aside, and then just cranking the engine going one by one with a compression gauge? I don’t see any grounding or anything.
Procedure: Using the key to turn the motor,
Pull all plugs and ground the wires.
Jump the neutral safety switch.
Push the throttle all the way forward, wot.
Install a screw in gauge and activate the key.
Let it turn over until the gauge stops going up.
Repeat on the other holes.
Results: the actual # can be anywhere around 150#- 180
or as low as 110# depending on the motor ??
The end result should be all cyl. even or close.
5%
The gauge makes a difference, cheapo Harbor Freight
tools can give really horrible results.
