Where do I start?

[rch105]

2001 185BR Sea Ray, 4.3L, all stock. Low hours (under 250) Always fresh water.

We've had the boat since new and I've winterized it the same way for each winter season. No issues when we I winterized it last September. Fresh oil filter, oil, and fuel/water separator to start this season off.

Went on vacation, July 14th, and upon start up it, seemed to take a little longer to run. Upon pulling from the dock area power was bad. Couldn't get to plane. Went about 300 yards and made a loop back to launch site as she was starting to labor. As I approached dock I saw the bilge was running and it was a chocolate milkshake coming out the bilge. Shut down immediately. Pulled cover to find the milkshake was spewed all over the top of engine, etc. It appears to have forced it's way back up the hoses connected to each side of the arrestor. Thoughts anyone? I've been researching it and I have a few reasons for this but would appreciate anyone's input. TIA!

 

[nola mike]

Sounds like you know what the problem is...how did you winterize it?
water in the oil like that is often a cracked block. Could get some water in there after sitting for a while from manifold leaks, but less likely,esp on a fresh water boat. I guess maybe head gasket, but more likely getting combustion gasses in the cooling system in that case.

 

[danhenke]

I had a very similar experience this spring. Turned out better than I thought. I did have to have the cylinder head replaced, but my block was fine. Hopefully you dont have the same. Definitely sounds like a crack somewhere in the engine.

 

[nola mike]

I think danhenke that's the first time I've seen a thread where there was an isolated head crack.

 

[danhenke]

I think danhenke that's the first time I've seen a thread where there was an isolated head crack.

Yeah man, I got soooooo lucky. Well, it cost $1200.00, but I’m the bigger picture, it was way cheaper than a long block replacement. I have the head hanging in my garage to remind me not to be a lazy @ssho!e in the future. Popped the valves for 2&3 cyl’s completely out of the head. HUGE piece of the head pushed out and moved itself on top of the head.

 

[Bondo]

and I've winterized it the same way for each winter season.

Ayuh,...... Welcome Aboard,..... How, Exactly, do ya winterize,..??

My guess is yer effort last fall was a failure,......

 

[nola mike]

danhenke Hey, it happens to many (except us 470 owners )

 

[danhenke]

danhenke Hey, it happens to many (except us 470 owners )

ive been concerned that there may be a crack in the block that hasn’t shown itself, but we’ve put 6 hours on it this season, and no problems. Oil is clean, no cooling issues, zero leaks and plenty of power. Only had an ignition short due to a crushed plug on the coil, obviously from the tech blindly smashing the fitting in the coil.

the OP might get lucky, not all of these threads end in a nightmare. I’m a sunny side up kind of guy. Wanted to share my “success” story with him to keep his chin up!

 

[rch105]

I remove the 5 blue drain plugs and let gravity drain what it can. I unbolt the thermostat housing. I then take compressed air and blow it into that opening using a plastic bag and a shop rag to help seal that opening. I blow the air until I have no water draining. I also turn the engine over (without starting it) to help remove any residual water that might remain , then compress air it again.

What I didn't do was pour in RV antifreeze. But I haven't done that for many, many years. Perhaps that caught up with me. If this dang rain will stop long enough, I'll degrease the engine, then start the tear-down to see if I can find the crack(s). Suggestions???

 

[Bt Doctur]

what you didnt do was poke the holes to insure the rust that was not clogging the drain hole.
easiest to just pull the drive and pull the engine ,pull the manifold and see the large cracks in the lifter valley

 

[achris]

Sounds like the air may have rushed out the manifold but not the bottom of the engine block. Left enough water in to produce a crack.

Chris. ......

 

[Rick Stephens]

I agree with Bt Doc. The block is most likely cracked, heads are most likely not cracked since you drained and they are up high.

Note, I do my winterization basically the same. Run it till up to temp, pull the drain plugs (both sides engine, both sides manifolds, drain plug I added next to the oil cooler cause I didn't like undoing the hose) pull the lower hose off the water pump. Probe the holes. We go from 70 degree days to single digit night in the winter. And like you I never antifreeze. The only trick to your's and my method is making sure all the water came out.

 

[tpenfield]

Where to start . . .

1) Cylinder leak test. This will indicate if (or not) there is a head gasket failure.

2) Cooling system pressure test. This will indicate if there is a crack (or similar opening) in the cooling system that would let water into the oil.

3) Let us know what you found.

 

[Scott Danforth]

start with a pressure test....

look at the bright side....with a new motor, you can upgrade to closed cooling

 

[Bt Doctur]

a quick test is to remove the therm housing and just pour water into the opening. If it goes down quickly you have a crack
verses going down very slowly past the rings from a bad head

 

[Benny67]

When I had my 5.7 I use to pull the water pump hoses as well. You would be surprised in the amount of water leftover in those. I'm not familiar with the 4.3 but I believe it's just a small block with 2 cylinders lopped off. Maybe the water in there caused it?

 

[rch105]

THANKS everyone!!!