Where to buy CSM & epoxy in MD?

[Jack2048]

Hi All,

I am doing some floor board repair on my 1994 runabout. I am looking to buy some epoxy and CSM for this repair.

Can anyone recommend a local retailer from which to buy?

I am in the Silver Spring, Maryland area.

Thanks.

 

[Woodonglass]

I'd prolly use these guys...http://www.fiberglasssite.com

They're in Edgewood.

 

[jbcurt00]

CSM isn't typically used w/ epoxy, what repair and do you plan to use cloth too?

 

[Woodonglass]

Nice Catch JBC. This is True. Epoxy only uses Fabric NO CSM. What kind of layups are you doing?? Got any Pics??

 

[Jack2048]

Ok, pics attached. I had to crop and compress alot to get under the 200k limit.
I am new to the rehabbing thing. Did alot of engine work, with one problem left, but that is another story.
I only started reading up on how to deal with the floor board problem yesterday.
I took the boat out yesterday and noticed the chair was listing to starboard quite a bit.
I have cut out a replacement floor for the section in the picture. I am going out Saturday w/friends.
The rest of the flooring is solid, just bad in this one area. Trying to figure out what I am going to need to do the complete work.

So, since I am new, sorry for mixing the CSM and epoxy, hadn't caught that in my readings. But thanks for the heads-up.

 

[Woodonglass]

Ok, It's best to use a free web photo account like Photobucket and then load your pics from there. It will autosize your pics for you. Just copy and paste the IMG Code into iBoats. The pics are Soooo big it's impossible to really tell what you're doing. You don't HAVE to use epoxy. Your boat is made from Polyester resin and you can use Polyester resin to fix it. Then you WOULD use the CSM and Fiberglass Fabric. It's cheaper and works just as well. My best guess from what I CAN make out is you'll be using some 3/4" plywood and some resin and glass to patch it back in but... you could have other issues below the deck too. Is this and I/O or and Outboard powered boat??

 

[Jack2048]

This is a 1994 Caravelle Interceptor w/ 5.0 V8 Volvo Penta I/O

The full, untouched images are now at Photobucket.

http://s284.photobucket.com/user/defenderjim/library/boat?sort=3&page=1

>you'll be using some 3/4" plywood

Have that and cut out to form.

>.. you could have other issues below the deck too.

You mean the stringers?

Some of the stringers are soft to crumbling, just in this area. Port side feels solid.

 

[Woodonglass]

Like I said, use the IMG Code to paste your pics right into your iBoats thread...







IF, BIG IF, you're absolutely sure this is the only area where rot is occurring in the boat then this is how I'd recommend you proceed. I'd also be checking the Transom and motor mounts for soft spots while you're at it.

Remove all the rotten stringer then sister in the new portion of stringer using 3/4" ext. grade plywood. 1st saturate it with polyester resin and encapsulate it in CSM. Bed it in Thickened Resin (Resin and Cabosil mixed to the consistency of creamy peanut butter) Tab it to the hull with 1708 biaxial fabric. Cut out the rotten deck area and then install cleats under the good portion of the deck so they extend out 1 1/2" around the perimeter. Cut the new piece of decking to fit the hole. Looks like it was a pedestal seat soooo, I'd recommend doubling up the plywood to make it 1 1/2" thick and using SS T-nuts to mount the pedestal with. You'll never have a problem again. Coat both sides with resin and CSM and then screw it to the cleats. Fill the crack with the "Peanut Butter Filler" and then lay down another layer of CSM over the entire patched area. This link will illustrate the procedures...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

 

[Jack2048]

Woodonglass,

>Like I said, use the IMG Code to paste your pics right into your iBoats thread.

Yes, you did say that, got it, ok three lashes...

>if BIG IF, you're absolutely sure this is the only area where rot is occurring

Well, that's the trick. This is the driver's side is the only area that feels soft.

>I'd also be checking the Transom and motor mounts for soft spots while you're at it.

I have just had the engine out for a rebuild, everything in back is solid.

>Looks like it was a pedestal seat

Yes, and the best part is that now I get to put it in a better position.

>SS T-nuts
I already had thought of the T-nuts, but I like the idea of doubling up there.
And doubling up will be needed with the torque of a taller pedestal, since I replaced the three inch pedestal w/a 14". I just can't see anything / don't like looking through the windshield.

Thank you for your advice. I will follow. I really appreciate it. Now I know how to proceed.





For suppliers, I have found these recommendations:

http://www.ebay.com/usr/polymerproducts?_trksid=p2047675.l2559
http://www.fiberglasssite.com

 

[Woodonglass]

Polyester resin is considered hazardous material and shipping is HIGH!!! You want to find the best price on shipping you can. Also be aware that Resin DOES have a shelf life as well as the MEKP so you want to try and buy from a reputable dealer.

 

[Jack2048]

>Polyester resin is considered hazardous material and shipping is HIGH!!!
I remember when the haz-mat fee used to be $10. No more.

>Also be aware that Resin DOES have a shelf life as well as the MEKP so you want to try and buy from a reputable dealer.

Ok, I remember reading that. Thanks.