Which Outdrive Is This?

[WalleyeSniper]

I know this is probably been addressed 100x, and I've seen many explanations and comparisons on the forums. But, for the life of me, I cannot decipher which outrive I have on my new (used) boat.

The best I can come up with, is that it's more than likely "R/MR Alpha One". But, even if I'm correct, I still don't understand the R/MR part or the difference between an Alpha One and Alpha One GEN 1. The way I understand it, is that R and MR are different, so I'm kinda confused as to why it comes back as R/MR when running the serial #. (Serial: 6930159).

Any help on exactly what I have would be greatly appreciated!

The reason I'm asking, is because when the drive is
trimmed up a little bit while running, there's a slight "clinking/looser sounding" noise near where I think the U-Joint or Gimbal area is, and I'm trying to figure out what I should be looking at addressing to get rid of the noise. Just Ujoints? Or should I go ahead and get a new gimbal and ujoints? Just looking for
opinions. When it's trimmed down or only part way up, it runs, sounds, and operates beautifully.

 

[Bt Doctur]

flat top and square plate makes me think it the MR
New to you with no service history then start by pulling the drive for inspection ,& fluid change,
If you raise it above its trim limit your damaging the U joints

 

[WalleyeSniper]

Oh, ok. That makes sense I figured I'd pull it, check it out, and see how it's looking. It operates fine for the most part, but I wasn't aware of the trim limit (I don't ever use the motor trim, only when pulling it back up on the trailer, and back down when I put it in the water or when it's going to be sitting at home). I always just assumed the hydraulic arms wouldn't allow it to go up or down past past a healthy point, but I guess I learned something new.

Is there a good general rule of thumb to go off of, to determine a good trim limit?

Oh yeah, thanks for the guidance too, It is greatly appreciated!

 

[nola mike]

2 flavors of alpha 1, a gen 1 1986-1990, and gen 2, 1991+. R is '83-84. MR was 85 and I think identical to the alpha 1, BT doctor? . Not sure how you tell the R from the later drives externally either

 

[Scott06]

This is a decent I'd site http://www.mercstuff.com/drive_id.htm

 

[achris]

Up to 1983 is MC1, rounded anti cav-plate and lifting eye on the top. Externally the R, MR and Alpha One (technically, there was never a 'gen 1', people just started calling them that when the Gen II came along) look the same. Once you split the drive you can tell what you have. The R has a preload pin in the top of the lower driveshaft. The MR and Alpha One are almost indistinguishable, even when the drive is split. But here's the 'problem'. All those drive uppers and lowers are interchangeable. So you could have an MR upper on an R lower, or an Alpha One lower under an MC1 upper. Hope this helps. One last thing. We hear the term 'pre-alpha'... no such thing! It's either an MC1, R, MR or Alpha One, or combination of those, but NEVER a pre-alpha.

 

[wellcraft-classic210]

I noticed the Skeg is not lower than the prop as seen in the picture -- Is that the original shape and normal ?


I am thinking Gen2 is lower -- and the one in the pic offers less protection


Good reason to raise the trim in shallow waters.


I added a skeggard with a built in skid plate to mine but still raise the trim when running in 10 foot or less to lower any risk. I have had it bottom out a few times at slow speed & not damage the prop so it seems to help.

 

[achris]

Gen II lower will not fit on MC1, R, MR or Alpha One uppers, and vis-versa.... That is not a gen II lower.

 

[Bt Doctur]

From the drive all the way down untill it stops at the up limit is 21 3/4 inches measures from mounting pin on transom to mounting pin on drive, "mounting pin " where the cylinders attach

 

[wellcraft-classic210]

To clarify --

I was just asking if a gen 2 skeg offers added protection through longer skeg over an alhpa 1 -- Not suggesting the pic was a gen2

The Originator commented
(I don't ever use the motor trim, only when pulling it back up on the trailer, and back down when I put it in the water or when it's going to be sitting at home).

I was hoping to lead into a discussion on the benefits of using the trim to raise and protect the prop. in shallow or unknown waters.

 

[Bondo]

I was just asking if a gen 2 skeg offers added protection through longer skeg over an alhpa 1 --

Nope,.... Not really,..... Skegs offer very limited prop protection,.....

I was hoping to lead into a discussion on the benefits of using the trim to raise and protect the prop. in shallow or unknown waters.

Absolutely,..... Perfectly safe up to the trim limit,......
Doable in extreme circumstances at idle speeds above the trim limit into the tilt range,.....

Not usin' the trim makes for very inefficent boat rides, usually with lots of spray,....
Timmin' up lifts the hull outa the water, ya go faster, with less power,....

 

[achris]

....Not usin' the trim makes for very inefficient boat rides, usually with lots of spray,....
Timmin' up lifts the hull outa the water, ya go faster, with less power,....

This ^^^^....


I use the trim switch as much as the throttle lever. Most changes of speed require a trim move, and a turn to a different direction on the weather certainly requires a trim change. Heading with the weather (following sea) needs a 'nose up' attitude to reduce the likelihood of a broach, and into the sea, slow down, trim in.... It's not just for running in shallow water... That said, I have run, at idle at full TILT up crossing river mouth sand bars.... Bit hairy running back in as the full UP position doesn't give much steerage, so you have to be on the ball to avoid getting flicked sideways.

Cheers and good luck with it.

Chris...............

 

[WalleyeSniper]

For my trim, I typically rely on (and use) my trim tab system exclusively, unless in 15' or shallower waters (which is very rare, as I run exclusively on Lake Erie.)

But, this discussion leads me to think I should be using my drive trim much more than I do. Is it more efficient to use my trim tabs or my outdrive trim, and/or a slight combo of both?

The other thing I'm really trying to learn about and practice in fair days, is tips and tricks for when heavier waves roll in and sneak up on me (3-5' waves, as I currently only navigate out in fair weather with 2' or under). It's only happened once to me so far, but I wasn't very confident trying to navigate back in with 4'ers rolling with me/from behind.

Note: Forgive me if these are novice questions, but this is only my second year piloting my own boat. For years I rode as a passenger with my more experienced people for all of our Lake Erie walleye days.

 

[achris]

Trim tabs can only work to push the bow down. Once you lift the tabs beyond 'level with the hull', they are ineffectual. Raising the drive slightly allows you to 'drive' the bow UP (by pushing the stern down), allowing the boat to plane on less surface area of the hull, thus making the boat more efficient. The combination of drive trim and trim tabs is ideal. When you have a cross wind, you can use the windward tab to level the boat, something that 'drive trim' alone can't do...

Chris.......

 

[WalleyeSniper]

Then you very much for the info Chris! These are the very things I love learning about (and NEED to learn about to become as efficient, confident, and safe as possible out there). I'm very grateful to gain valuable advice from you guys.

So, just to clarify, when coming in and the weather/seas traveling with (waves coming in from behind and traveling with me as I had to shore) it's best to have a bow-up attitude to avoid broaching? Or, is it best to quarter slowly to avoid swamping?

The reason I ask, is because I got caught in 4-5'ers that sprang up on me quick in a hurry (that's slightly too big for me yet in my comfort zone) and it was freaking me out with the weather/waves going with me. I felt a little uneasy the entire time feeling a little fear that I was gonna get swamped if I did that. So I stated level and quartered them as best as possible while just meandering my way in slowly. But, no matter what I did, I felt as if I was doing it wrong/just didn't feel right. I definitely had a couple near-broaches to where my bow was definitely lower into the wave than it should be and maybe only a foot or less from truly broaching.

Are there any rules of thumb you go by, when dealing with following seas that are a little bigger than the comfortable range? I never have a problem going out against the weather or crawling and handing larger waves going out, but coming back in is a whole other situation for me.