Which resin to finish floor?

nextboat1

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 17, 2013
Messages
82
Hello,
I’m currently restoring a 1971 Slickcraft. All stingers, bulkheads and the transom have been fully replaced and glassed, and I am now ready to install and glass the new decking. As of now only west system epoxy has been used. I’m wondering if I can finish out the floor with polyester resin, or if I should stick with the epoxy. I left about two inches of the old fiberglass around the perimeter of the hull and would like to tab into that. Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!AAE27A12-07B3-4938-A40E-488FFED41D09.jpeg
 

76SeaRay

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Aug 24, 2017
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1,071
I am no expert and just getting ready to lay deck in my boat. From what I have read on here (search the threads), it depends upon the type of "wear and tear" your deck will see and if you can afford the amount of epoxy. In my case, I had to use polyester through out including the stringers and transom due to the amount of resin I need for a 22ft boat and the cost of epoxy versus polyester. I plan to use polyester resin on the deck with a layer of CSM on the underside. I plan to use one layer of 1708 then one layer of CSM over the 1708 on top of the deck. I haven't decided yet but I may gelcoat the deck over the fiberglass and go with snap in carpet. My boat will be covered most of the time and I will be more of a fair weather sailor so the boat shouldn't see much water on the inside. It will also just be me and my girlfriend using the boat for cruising.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
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50,276
You started with epoxy, you should finish with epoxy.

Epoxy sticks to poly
Epoxy sticks to eooxy

Poly sticks to poly

Poly does not stick to epoxy
 

76SeaRay

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Aug 24, 2017
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1,071
I should add that I used epoxy in my hardtops where I had to replace rotted wood in those (see profile pic). I wanted the extra strength in that area. I also am using marine grade plywood everywhere.
 

zool

Captain
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
3,432
If U want to use poly for the deck up, that's fine, just try to grind out any tabbed area that are epoxy based and not original hull material.

I've seen poly tabbed over epoxy with no problem, i've seen gel applied over un-blushed epoxy with no problem...

BTW, If you explore other epoxy sources, besides the name brands, you may find the cost variance is not that great...look to USC.

I would only choose a poly or vinyl-ester deck if using gel as a finish.

also, vinyl-ester resin over epoxy reduces the risk of delamination, and me be a cost avenue for you.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,099
Just sand and wipe the existing fiberglass with acetone, and you can use whatever resin you want to finish the deck. Make sure to use enough glass matting or cloth (I like mat) to give the plywood decking protection from the elements after a beating from shoes and feet.
 

nextboat1

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 17, 2013
Messages
82
Thanks for all of the replies. I think I’m going to stick with the epoxy for the deck. I was a bit hesitant due to the added cost moving forward, but I guess I’ve already made it this far. How many gallons of epoxy would you estimate to finish the deck? The large open void in the picture is for the fuel tank which is then covered with a teak insert. Also, what mat/fiberglass would you recommend? I know the floor ties the stringers/bulkheads/hull together and don’t want to skimp here. Thanks again for all your insight!
 

zool

Captain
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
3,432
I could do that deck with a 1 gallon kit.....you have to keep in mind that less is more with epoxy, over wetting is just waste. The exclusion of csm is where the resin savings are most prevalent. 10 oz eglass or 17oz cloth, 2 layers will do it.
 
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