WHY DECARB IMPROVE CYLINDER PSI?

[CARLOS]

I´VE HEARD, THAT, 2-STROKE ENGINES MUST TO DECARB EVERY 300 HOURS OF ENGINE OPERATIONS.<br />MY QUESTIONS ARE:<br />1-DECARB IMPROVE CYLINDER COMPRESION? WHY?<br />I´VE A 1990 275 3.4L MARINER WITH ONLY 350 HOURS.<br />2-THIS MOTOR NEED TO DECARB? WHEN? WHY? IF MY ENGINE CONTINUE RUNNING LIKE BRAND NEW...!<br />3-IF I NEVER MADE IT, WHAT WILL HAPPEN TO MY ENGINE AFTER 800-1000 HOURS OF USE?<br /><br />THANKS<br /><br />CARLOS<br /><br />SALUDOS DESDE VENEZUELA

 

[dkondelik]

Re: WHY DECARB IMPROVE CYLINDER PSI?

'Afternoon Carlos Eduardo,<br /><br />durring combustion, carbon residu results. After prolonged periods, Carbon deposits can build up on the different surfaces in the cobustion chamber including: piston domes, head, rings,....<br />After prolonged carbon build-up there is risk of HOT-Spots on the piston and head as well as possabiliity of of carbon build-up on Rings causing them to stick. <br /><br />Carbon build-up on head and pistons can cause detonation/pre-ignition which can result in serious engine damage.<br /><br />Build-up on the rings, resulting in stuck rings can easily cause loss of compression. As well, buid-up can get a ring caught-and SNAP! big probleem.<br /><br />Different motors, oils, environments, running conditions,.... influence the buildup of carbon.<br /><br />From what I understand, it can't hurt the motor to de-carb, even if it doesn't need it. <br /><br />On the other hand, if it is suffering from carbon build-up and you take care of it,.....<br /><br />I think that the general concensus is, "better to be safe then sorry". One rule of thumb is to perform a decarb at least once per year.<br /><br />I'm sure others can offer more on the subject.<br /><br />Good Luck<br />HAVE FUN!

 

[Kenny Bush]

Re: WHY DECARB IMPROVE CYLINDER PSI?

Carlos, Decarboning cleans carbon buildup in the internal combustion chamber. I run decarbonizer through my fuel tank every 100 hours. You see young lad, the cylinders are conical in construction. As the piston goes down the cylinder gets smaller/tighter thus compressing the rings on every stroke. When carbon builds up in these rings(and other components) they stick compressed, which when the piston moves up it is loose and blow by occurs resulting in lost compression.....This is easily heard by loud rattling of the upper powerhead, which is the piston wobbeling a little. Decarbon every 100 hours with a fuel additive (I use SeaFoam) to keep your motor clean.... Especially on that 3.4 L ......Goodluck.BushCat

 

[gss036]

Re: WHY DECARB IMPROVE CYLINDER PSI?

Carlos, I picked this artice up on a forum and I did it to my engine this week and it works and not a lot of work.<br />here's an excelent article a friend had published on decarb<br /><br />Tip for the Week <br />Do-It-Yourself Engine Tip; A Simple and Cost Effective Way to De-Carbon an Outboard <br />By Capt. Bob Dunkelberger dunk75@comcast.net <br />This works for Carbed, EFI, Ficht, HPDI, Opti-max and even 4-strokes... and should be administered after every 50-60 hours of use. <br />First you need a separate small fuel tank. One of those 3-gallon red Tempos works well or an empty gallon milk jug in a pinch, but it might be a bit messier. <br />I use Seafoam over the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) stuff like OMC Engine Tuner or Mercury Power Tune. Note: in the last few years they changed the formula and you have to let them sit up 12 hours. Who's got time for that? Seafoam does the job in 15 minutes and can be purchased from NAPA, Car Quest or other auto stores. <br />You'll need 3/4 gallon of gasoline and one 16oz can of Seafoam for each engine. Don't forget to add 3oz of oil if you are pre-mixing in a carbed engine. Use a 3 ft piece of fuel hose off the small tank. Connect this tank to your engine by pulling off the main tank fuel hose from the intake side of your water separating fuel filter and plug the hose off the small tank onto that fitting. Or you can separate the fuel line on the tank side primer ball, so you can still use your primer. If your engine has a fuel plug then you will also need a fuel plug on the smaller tank's hose. <br />Start the engine, let it warm up and start pulling the mix into the engine. You may have to increase the idle to keep it running once she gets loaded with the Seafoam. Run the engine 15 minutes at the dock or just cruising around under 2500 rpm's. Then shut it down and let it sit for another 15 minutes. <br />Restart the engine; the smoke you see is the carbon burning off. Do the whole thing again and let her sit again for 15 more minutes. If she smokes after the second time do it again. <br />I've never seen one still smoke after three doses. (I bought a Bronco two years ago that had 95,000 miles on it. When I used Seafoam on it I had the neighbors hanging out of their front doors looking for where the fire was after I started it the first time there so much smoke) <br />The gallon mix should be just enough to do this 3 times. You don't need a wide-open throttle and you don't need to change the plugs. The plugs are cleaned at the same time as the combustion chambers. My suggestion is that every 50-60hrs is the optimal time to change plugs in most engines. <br />I cleaned an antique Evinrude once that had a 1/4" of solid carbon on the exhaust chamber walls by running a 1/2 gal of the aforementioned mix through it. Seafoam, a great product, has been around since the 1930's and it's what they used when they were burning straight 4 stroke 40SAE oils in outboards. <br />For you guys with the 4 stroke outboards? Those engines work 10 times as hard as any auto engine ever will and they too will carbon up. Too many are under the assumption that it's totally the 2 stroke oil that causes the carbon, Wrong... it's also the additives they put in the fuels today. The carbon inhibitors in 2-stroke oil are there for this reason also. Remember when gasoline used to smell like gasoline, today it smells more like bad cologne. <br />For those guys that like to work the carbon treatment by spraying it down the carbs, Seafoam also comes in spray can called Deep Creep. It's the same stuff under pressure and notes on the can, "Oxygen Sensor Safe". After that, if your engine manufacturer recommends a daily additive treatment then do so. The tank and hose are a one-time purchase and the Seafoam is only costs $5-6.00 per can. <br />Note: Capt Bob Dunkelberger is a Marine Surveyor in New Jersey. Please feel free to contact him at dunk75@comcast.net with any questions