Winch

nightowl66

Cadet
Joined
Jan 16, 2010
Messages
18
I have a 1993 18.5' Lund that weighs around 2000# when fully loaded. It sits on the original K-Dee trailer it came with with carpeted bunks and a 1700# winch. It is a drive on trailer, but when I am at a place where you can't power load, I can hardly crank the winch to get it loaded. The 1700# winch should be plenty, but I am thinking of getting a larger one. It took all i had to get it cranked on the trailer this past weekend. Not too fun after being on the water all day. Does anyone have any ideas that might help?
 

haulnazz15

Captain
Joined
Mar 9, 2009
Messages
3,720
Re: Winch

The 1700# winch should be more than sufficient. Back the trailer in another inch or two deeper and your problem likely disappears. Or, you can put some silicone spray or cooking spray on the bunks before you load the boat back on. It will make the bunks a bit more slippery which will make winching easier.
 

nightowl66

Cadet
Joined
Jan 16, 2010
Messages
18
Re: Winch

thanks, i'll give the spray a try. Even when I am able to drive it on, just winching the last foot or so is hard. My 21' fiberglass boat I had winched on better than the smaller boat.
 

WIMUSKY

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 26, 2009
Messages
20,045
Re: Winch

I'm thinking your 21' had a 2 speed winch.................. I use to winch my 24' cuddy, but I had a roller trailer too.......
 
Last edited:

haulnazz15

Captain
Joined
Mar 9, 2009
Messages
3,720
Re: Winch

thanks, i'll give the spray a try. Even when I am able to drive it on, just winching the last foot or so is hard. My 21' fiberglass boat I had winched on better than the smaller boat.

Are you not able to back the trailer in another foot or two to get the bunks slightly deeper?
 

Hal Ray

Cadet
Joined
Aug 22, 2010
Messages
12
Re: Winch

Had a similar issue. After much trial and error found the bunks were higher in front than back. In effect was winching up an incline. Once this was corrected winching became much easier.
 

Jake007

Seaman
Joined
Jan 8, 2011
Messages
73
Re: Winch

Had a similar issue. After much trial and error found the bunks were higher in front than back. In effect was winching up an incline. Once this was corrected winching became much easier.

I am just starting to look a little harder at my trailer setup since I am at the age of repair. So you are saying that the proper trailer setup should have the bunks level front to back as measured from the "trailer"? ground? I have never checked mine, I think I will this weekend.
 

haulnazz15

Captain
Joined
Mar 9, 2009
Messages
3,720
Re: Winch

You want the boat level on the trailer for towing purposes. The bunks may or may not be level depending on the shape of the hull.
 

smokeonthewater

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
9,838
Re: Winch

just use silicone spray lube on the bunks... make sure they are DRY before spraying and again dry before putting it in the water...... after applying you will have a whole new trailer experience... make sure that you DO NOT unhook the winch before backing into the water or you will likely see your boat slide off onto the ramp.
 

Home Cookin'

Fleet Admiral
Joined
May 26, 2009
Messages
9,715
Re: Winch

I am just starting to look a little harder at my trailer setup since I am at the age of repair. So you are saying that the proper trailer setup should have the bunks level front to back as measured from the "trailer"? ground? I have never checked mine, I think I will this weekend.

The conflict is that more slant is good for launching and bad for retrieving (which is a function of tilt trailers). Too steep a slant can in some cases cause your transom to hit the ramp on launching if you launch "dry."

If the bunks are level on flat ground they will generally be slanted correctly at the ramp. But there is no harm in having the bunks slanted to the rear some; that slant will be increased at the ramp. So if you regularly use a particularly steep ramp, you could compensate some by flattening the bunks.

What is crucial is that when the boat is stored on the trailer, the slant is enough to drain the entire hull--this is enhanced with the tongue jack. If your jack won't do this, you may need to add some slant in the bunks. This might also be a factor if you regularly park on a down slanted surface, such as backed into a short driveway.

Driving, the trailer should be level and balanced correctly; I don't see how bunk slant would matter any.

All this also applies to roller set-up.
 
Top