sprintst
Commander
- Joined
- Apr 18, 2009
- Messages
- 2,066
Here's my plan and a bit of history.
My boat has been winterized for the last however many years with rv coolant in the system by the small shop that does the work. Over here in the oil driven economy with fogging, change engine oil, change stern drive oil, etc it around 400.
My plan is to accomplish the same thing at a fraction of the cost with any luck. I'm looking at running on the muffs to warm everything up and shut her down. Drain the manifold of any water, lower the leg into a cut rain barrel filled with rv coolant. Run the engine until it comes up to temperature, fog till she dies, change engine oil and stern drive oil, etc. Raise the leg, drain rv coolant back into jugs and and ready till next year.
I've stowed the boat both ways so far, one with rv coolant and the other just air. I know that air doesn't freeze but didn't like the rust that came out after running after the air storage as iron/air is not usually a good mix. My thought is that everything will be well up to temperature so any water in any nook or cranny will be driven out and rv coolant will take it's place.
Many schools of thought on the subject. I have looked and have seen people do the winterize with adapters full of jug fed rv coolant and wondered how they know for sure the thermostat was open when they switched over. I've also seen too many posts of cracked blocks and manifolds from not clearing the drain with a piece of wire so there was water still in there and people do nothing at all and hope for the best with a light bulb under the block.
Am I crazy for my overkill method, I can give anyone a run for the money on that one, or is it sound but a bit overboard.
My boat has been winterized for the last however many years with rv coolant in the system by the small shop that does the work. Over here in the oil driven economy with fogging, change engine oil, change stern drive oil, etc it around 400.
My plan is to accomplish the same thing at a fraction of the cost with any luck. I'm looking at running on the muffs to warm everything up and shut her down. Drain the manifold of any water, lower the leg into a cut rain barrel filled with rv coolant. Run the engine until it comes up to temperature, fog till she dies, change engine oil and stern drive oil, etc. Raise the leg, drain rv coolant back into jugs and and ready till next year.
I've stowed the boat both ways so far, one with rv coolant and the other just air. I know that air doesn't freeze but didn't like the rust that came out after running after the air storage as iron/air is not usually a good mix. My thought is that everything will be well up to temperature so any water in any nook or cranny will be driven out and rv coolant will take it's place.
Many schools of thought on the subject. I have looked and have seen people do the winterize with adapters full of jug fed rv coolant and wondered how they know for sure the thermostat was open when they switched over. I've also seen too many posts of cracked blocks and manifolds from not clearing the drain with a piece of wire so there was water still in there and people do nothing at all and hope for the best with a light bulb under the block.
Am I crazy for my overkill method, I can give anyone a run for the money on that one, or is it sound but a bit overboard.