Re: Winterizing
Winterizing Your Boat <br /> <br />Winterizing your boat, it's a chore but one that can save you so much trouble next spring when you want ole Bessie to work properly. Here are a few guidelines that I follow when doing this task after my last trip of the year and while packing her away in the garage for the winter. <br />1. Clean out boat thoroughly, I usually wash it and steam clean the carpets, I empty out all compartments and leave the hatch doors slightly ajar to allow for drying and ventilation. <br /><br />2. Fill up your gas tank and add a proper fuel stabilizer additive is best for smaller tanks of fuel but many debates have not proven it the best or worst for larger volumes of fuel. With a larger boat and larger fuel tank I now run my fuel tank pretty low then I add a sufficient quantity of stabilizer for the remaining fuel. As a matter of fact, if in doubt I will add just a little extra fuel stabilizer as it is far better safe than sorry. (When you begin the new season you can then fill the tank up to the top making sure the fuel from the previous fall is mixed with a much larger volume of fresh fuel.) Next I will run the motor with this treated gas for about 15 to 20 minutes then I unplug the fuel line to let the engine finish burning the fuel out of the carburetors. - Don't forget to use your water hose adaptor. If your motor is not a 'carb'ed' unit then you will need to do a few extra things, for EFI's and DFI's just treat the gas as above, unplug line and allow engine to die. This does pretty the much the same thing as burning fuel out of carburetors. If your motor is like mine and has no quick connect for the fuel line, then you can gently pinch off the fuel line with vice-grips or proper fuel line pinching pliers available at most auto parts stores. <br /><br />3. Next, take out all of the plugs, check them over and note any problems, I will spray some fogging oil Can be found at any local Napa or atomotive store for about $3.00) in each plug hole and put the plugs back in. With the run switch off (you can unplug kill switch for same effect) I will crank the engine a few revolutions to evenly distribute the fogging oil around all the moving parts inside the combustion chamber and engine assembly. * note: to save on plugs I will use the same set each winter, I mark them by painting them black, when I run the motor in the spring I use my winter' plugs to burn out the oils then I will put in new plugs for better performance for the new season. <br /><br />4. Drain the lower unit and look for any water problems signaling a bad gasket, using a pump kit I will refill my lower unit from the bottom hole in order to push out any other contaminants. Once full replace both plugs and clean off lower unit. If needed, now would be a great time to also check and replace the impeller, this often overlooked item can become easily damaged... even in normal use! I replace it every 100 hours or two seasons, whichever comes first. <br /><br />5. Jack up the trailer to prevent tire flat spotting during the lay up season from the boat weight. <br /><br />6. Remove all batteries and properly check the charge on each one. Store them in your basement on a wooden shelf, a cement floor can harm your battery. Don't forget to check the charge on those batteries at least twice during the winter as well. <br /><br />7. Remove all electronics from the boat and store them as well in your basement or house. <br /><br />8. Take off the prop and make any repairs if needed, lube up the shaft, look for line or other items around the seals and put it back on. I will also lube up the motor joints and steering cables. Lubing now ensures good grease but also pushes out any moisture. <br /><br />9. Blow out the water hoses. From the console end I will take off the speedo and water pressure hoses, then I will blow them out with air to remove any water in those lines. Do not forget to mark them if they are the same color, size or in the same general area, could save on confusion next season. <br /><br />10. Undo the winch strap from the bow, it can only help to have all that pressure relieved from the bow hook and the strap itself. <br /><br />11. Open all valves and remote drains to drain out the water but should some remained trapped, open valves do allow for expansion of ice. You can use compressed air to blow out these drain lines or even pour some 'non-toxic' antifreeze in there. <br /><br />12. Store the motor straight up, this will allow any moisture to drain off completely. I will also raise the trim up and down two or three times, this action will let any water trapped in the pockets of the system to be moved around, this then allows it a better chance of coming down the drain when the motor is left in the straight up position. <br /><br />13. Completely disinfect the livewell and make sure that it has been properly rinsed and toweled dry. Also do the bilge in the same manner. <br /><br />14. Put some dielectric compound on the trailer electrical and light connectors. I also take an old mated end as well and plug it on the trailer connector to prevent exposure, I will do this as well to my truck if needed. <br /><br />15. I take the extra time now to look for last minute fiberglass damage or leaking rivets. <br /><br />Just a few other quick tips and things that you may or may not want to do. <br /><br />- I will always put everything from my boat in one area of the basement or garage so that I am not looking everywhere in the spring for a few important items. <br />- I take off my trailer tires altogether. <br />- In the spring I wax my boat to help protect it. <br />- I check my boat regularly in the winter to make sure it has not become a home for mice or similar. <br /><br />As mentioned above, some water systems may require some plumbing antifreeze to prevent damage in them so you may need to perform that task as well. <br /><br />In the spring, after you do the initial running and plug change, it may also be a good idea to get your boat tuned up just to make sure that it is at it's performance optimum for the upcoming season. Also, now is a great time to decarbonize your motor, this will make sure that it is starting the year out on the right foot. <br /><br />If you do not have a garage then make sure that your boat cover is on tightly but also allows vital air flow through the boat, consider a good boat wrap with installed vents. If your boat is smaller and stored outside then flip it over, store it on 6 x 6 blocks, do not let the snow and ice build up too heavily. <br /><br />Lastly, if you cannot or do not feel comfortable doing any of this then make sure you get your rig to a qualified dealer in your area and have them winterize your rig for you. You will be glad that you done so in the spring when your boat is purring along and your neighbor is cursing theirs for not running properly after not packing it away improperly last fall. <br /> I hope this helps yah out.
<br /><br />I would like permission to move it to the Engine FAQ section. <br /><br />May I?