Wiring Question!

[Piedog]

I have a 1985 Challenger Sport Fisher Pro that I am doing a little restore work on. my question is at the bow of the boat I have some controls on a plate . 1 is the plug for the trolling motor which I think is either 12/24 volt and 3 switches 2. from right to left there are 3 switches . First one is easy its the tilt/ trim switch , I do need to know how it needs to be wired though, the second switch is a toggle switch abobe the switch it says 2-12 charge, below the switch it says 12/24 run and to the left side of the switch it says 12v, care to tell me what this switch actually does and the last switch I really think someone added to the control board but not for sure, it has 3 positions and 3 connections on the back of it.

would someone please advise me on these , thanks

oh yeah the boat has a 75 hp Mercury OB

 

[Piedog]

Re: Wiring Question!

Hey anybody on here tonight got any answers for me!

Thanks Dog

 

[Don S]

Re: Wiring Question!

Relax Piedog, it's only been an hour since your original post. Allow time for those that may be able to answer your question to read it. They may not be online at the moment.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Wiring Question!

Your boat is apparently wired for a dual voltage (12 and 24 volt) motor meaning it can operate from 12 volts or 24. Obviously if you have that type of motor you need two 12 volt deep cycle batteries to make 24 volts. If you do, the mystery switches work like this.

2-12 charge: For 24 volt operation the two batteries are wired in series via the switch panel you are talking about. To charge two 12 volt batteries in series you would need a dual output charger OR since there likely were few to none of these when your boat was built, the switch was used to "break" the series connection and essentially parallel the two batteries so they could both be charged simultaneously through the trolling motor receptacle or by connecting a single charger to just one of the batteries.

12/24 RUN: Placing the switch in this position allowed the batteries to be used for either 12 or 24 volt operation depending on what you had selected on the foot pedal.

The unlabeled switch is a mystery since you provide no clue as to where the wires go and since we can't see your boat and you feel the switch was added after the fact, it makes it even more difficult to tell. It perhaps was used to operate a locator, a light of some kind, or some other device. Follow the wires to see where they go. Since we also have no idea what engine you have on this boat, the trim wiring shall also remain a mystery until that is known. Trim systems are not all wired the same.

 

[Piedog]

Re: Wiring Question!

Thanks Silvertip, very helpful info. the boat has a 1985 75hp Mercury outboard on it!

so what your saying on the 2-12 Charge/12/24 Run switch is that since there are 4 termial connectors on the back of it where 2 red and 2 black go . I have traced them to the back of the boat and yes they do go to the trolling batteries. Only think is they have put both red and both blacks to the same battery. Which I will put new ends on each wire to fix that issue.

now i am sure after your reply that someone did a few blotched up jobs on the wiring. so since my trolling motor receptacle is a 3 wire Red . White amd Black , I can charge both batteries at the same time right!

As for the Mystery switch looks like they tried to fix one problem with another, gonna remove it.

But care to still help me out on the trim switch theyactually llok like there all 3 black from age or paint! but switch is broke and I bought a new one the trim/tilt switch works in the handle but the one on the transom doesnt work either. pretty sure the wires on the switch located back by the motor are green , blue and purple!

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Wiring Question!

Whoa back son! You say you have two pairs of wires going to the batteries but both pairs go the same battery! Next question: Do you actually have a 12/24 volt trolling motor? Next Question: Do you have two trolling motor batteries or one deep cycle for the troller and one for the engine - or do you have three batteries (one for the engine and two for the troller). Three terminals on the troller plug is correct. What colors are the wires going to the batteries (should be red & black or Red & white) so which is it. At the receptacle, if you measure red to ground (ground will be white or black depending on what you tell us the wire colors are going to the batteries) you should measure 24 volts. That of course is provided both pairs of wires go to separate batteries. You cannot get 24 volts from a single 12 volt battery. Either the white or black wire will be for 12 volt operation -- again depending on whether the pair of wires going to the batteries uses the black or white wire for ground. I cannot help you with the tilt switch wiring as I cannot see your boat, the switch or the wiring and it appears this wiring has been mucked with.

 

[Piedog]

Re: Wiring Question!

Your so rigth about that , mucked with is an understatement , I have only one deep cycle battery rigth now in the boat for the trolling motor, someone not me , changed the 24v system to 12v . why they put both red and both blacks to the one battery makes no sense to me. but the boat does have 2 reds and 2 blacks going from the from of the boat back to where i am sure there where 2 batteries located at one time. The receptacle is bad so I will have to replace it.

Let me ask you this I only have the tilt/trim ability on the handle of the controls then how would I go about putting a switch in the front and back of the boat for tilt/trim ? 1985 Mercury 75 hp.

Oh and Thanks so much for all the help!

 

[Bondo]

Re: Wiring Question!

Let me ask you this I only have the tilt/trim ability on the handle of the controls then how would I go about putting a switch in the front and back of the boat for tilt/trim ?

Ayuh,... You can wire in as many trim/ tilt switches as you'd like, by wiring 'em in parallel with the original switch...

 

[seabob4]

Re: Wiring Question!

I've worked on Trackers that had a harness made for them that basically was a splice into the trim/tilt harness that continued the red/green/blue wires forward to a second trim/tilt switch at the bow. Red goes to the center position of the switch, blue on the bottom, green on top. Check to condition of your wiring for corrosion (black wire).

If you're comfortable with a multimeter, set the meter to continuity, then hold one probe on the center position of the switch, the other probe on the bottom position, then press the switch for "up". You should have continuity. Same with the bottom position. If you do, check for voltage at the center position. The ignition key may have to be in the "run" position, but probably not.