WOT Shift Rod?

[seabird89]

I have an 89 OMC Seadrive 140 that I am trying to revive after 10 years of sitting. I think I am having fuel supply issues, but I want to also make sure it is not something else.

Before taking her out the first time I put and impeller kit on and I had some issues getting the lower unit back on due to the shift rod moving on me and not lining up with the hole. I was pretty sure I got the shift rod back in the correct location without rotating it a full turn, but now I am starting to wonder.

Since day one (this year), I have never been able to get her to run more that about 4000 RPMs. I am wondering if maybe the shift rod is too low and not allowing me to advance the throttle all the way. Is there a way to check that? I measured the distance of travel that the throttle moves both in and out of gear, and it seems to be roughly the same. Could I also just check to see if the throttle plates open up all the way when i have the throttle pushed all the way forward? I know I can take the lower unit off and check the shift rod height, but I would rather leave that as a last resort since it was such a bear to get back together.

PS - in case you couldn't tell, I am a novice at this (to say the least).

 

[racerone]

I think you need to look elsewhere.-------After sitting for 10 years the carburetors MUST be cleaned.----You MUST verify that oil injection is working as designed !----Check for strong spark on all leads.-----Are throttle plates going full open when you have lever at full throttle ?---Is timer base rotating fully ?

 

[seabird89]

Yes, I have actually cleaned the carbs and put a kit in them, they actually weren't that bad. Oil injection was disconnected years ago, currently mixing 50:1. I will check the throttle plates, they just need to be perpendicular to the hole, right? Not sure what the timer base is, or how to check it.

I have one of those spark testers from Harbor Freight, can I use it to test spark? http://www.harborfreight.com/90-inli...ker-69023.html

 

[seabird89]

I found how to check the timer base in another thread, how can I tell if it rotates fully, is there a stop that it should engage when the throttle is at WOT?

 

[hardwater fisherman]

No Title

This spark tester will make the spark jump an open air gap. The one you displayed will only tell you if you have spark, and not the strength of the spark.You can make one with materials you probably have. Google open air spark tester for some examples.

 

[seabird89]

Thanks, I may actually have one of those if I can find it.

 

[boobie]

Do a cylinder drop test on it and see if you find a weak one.

 

[seabird89]

What's the best way to do that? Just pull the the plug wire off of the coil while running like a car?

 

[boobie]

Yes with an insulated pliers pulling the plug wire off of the spark plug. Not the coil. Works good about 2000 rpm.

 

[seabird89]

Am I checking for spark, or a drop in rpm?

 

[boobie]

Both.............

 

[seabird89]

I was able to check a few things last night.

Check for strong spark on all leads - Using an open air spark tester all cylinders jump a 1/2" gap.
Are throttle plates going full open when you have lever at full throttle - Yes
Is timer base rotating fully - The timer base is moving with the throttle from the front stop to the back stop

I will check for RPM drop (drop test) tonight after work. Is there anything else I can check?

 

[racerone]

Flywheel key checked ?

 

[seabird89]

Would it run with a sheared flywheel key?

How do I check this?

 

[boobie]

Remove the plug from # 1 cylinder. Stick a long blade screw driver in the plug hole and rotate the flywheel until the # 1 cylinder is at top dead center. At that time check that the TDC mark on the flywheel lines up with the TDC mark on the block. If they do, the flywheel key is okay. If not, the key is sheared.

 

[seabird89]

I checked for a sheared key, the #1 cylinder lines up with TDC so I guess it is not that.

I tried doing the drop test, but I ended up shocking myself :facepalm:.

I tried just pulling a plug wire off and grounding it, then starting the engine. I am not sure how to interpret the results, or even know if they are valid. When cylinders 2 and 4 were disconnected, the RPMs were 1100-1200 RPMs. Cylinder 1 disconnected was at about 1000 RPM, and with cylinder 3 removed it dropped to about 900 RPM. I hooked everything back up and it was running at 1100 RPM.

The drop test was done on muffs and at idle. I don't know if it is valid since I was not at 2000 RPM like Boobie had asked.