rifleman_maynard
Seaman Apprentice
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2006
- Messages
- 33
Questions:
There is a check valve under the main crank bearing housing in the block. It looks like a brass, 4 finger retainer and a "bisket" of some kind. Should this come out before I send it to the machinist? If so, how do I get it out. I could pry at it with a knife point or a little screwdriver but I don't want to booger up the block. Should I just order a replacement and do it when the block comes back?
I have cobbled together a shipping box consisting of an inner box lined with a couple of extra layers of cardboard to surround and cushion the block, and an outer box spaced about 1" from the inner box with chunks of foam I have trimmed to shape. The crank side and exhaust cover side are spaced from the outer box by three layers of cardboard. I wrapped the block in 10 mil plastic first.
Does this sound like adaquate packaging?
I have not weighed the boxed block but I think it is light enough to send UPS or DHL.
This motor came apart easily, no broken bolts. Some of the exhaust cover bolts were pretty ratty and corroded. I don't think I will reuse the ratty ones.
When I got this torn down (see earlier postings) it was pretty clear where the compression had gone. I do not think the previous ower had ever heard of Ring Free. The bottom rings were stuck on all four pistons and the top rings were only sort of free. Severe carbon stains on all the pistons from the blow by and a little actual skirt material smeared into the #3 cylinder wall. Only the #3 hole was scored and all the rings were intact.
Depending on what the machinist tells me, I think 4 new pistons (and rings, pins, bearings, etc), rod bolts, and a gasket kit and I am good to go. I may test the thermostats instead of replacing them. I will replace the impeller.
My local resource, a long time Yamaha tech had a nearly identical list of stuff to do and replace as the list that rodbolt has posted. Two small differences: The local guy says to retard the timing by a couple of degrees and inspect the bottom main bearing for any staining, roughness or play and reuse it if it looks good. I think that the fact that he doesn't see many (if any) saltwater motors in West Central Missouri may have something to do with that.
It makes it easier for us non-experts when the experts agree so closely.
There is a check valve under the main crank bearing housing in the block. It looks like a brass, 4 finger retainer and a "bisket" of some kind. Should this come out before I send it to the machinist? If so, how do I get it out. I could pry at it with a knife point or a little screwdriver but I don't want to booger up the block. Should I just order a replacement and do it when the block comes back?
I have cobbled together a shipping box consisting of an inner box lined with a couple of extra layers of cardboard to surround and cushion the block, and an outer box spaced about 1" from the inner box with chunks of foam I have trimmed to shape. The crank side and exhaust cover side are spaced from the outer box by three layers of cardboard. I wrapped the block in 10 mil plastic first.
Does this sound like adaquate packaging?
I have not weighed the boxed block but I think it is light enough to send UPS or DHL.
This motor came apart easily, no broken bolts. Some of the exhaust cover bolts were pretty ratty and corroded. I don't think I will reuse the ratty ones.
When I got this torn down (see earlier postings) it was pretty clear where the compression had gone. I do not think the previous ower had ever heard of Ring Free. The bottom rings were stuck on all four pistons and the top rings were only sort of free. Severe carbon stains on all the pistons from the blow by and a little actual skirt material smeared into the #3 cylinder wall. Only the #3 hole was scored and all the rings were intact.
Depending on what the machinist tells me, I think 4 new pistons (and rings, pins, bearings, etc), rod bolts, and a gasket kit and I am good to go. I may test the thermostats instead of replacing them. I will replace the impeller.
My local resource, a long time Yamaha tech had a nearly identical list of stuff to do and replace as the list that rodbolt has posted. Two small differences: The local guy says to retard the timing by a couple of degrees and inspect the bottom main bearing for any staining, roughness or play and reuse it if it looks good. I think that the fact that he doesn't see many (if any) saltwater motors in West Central Missouri may have something to do with that.
It makes it easier for us non-experts when the experts agree so closely.