1979 Chrysler - not run in a while

[Scuda11]

Hi all, first time over in the Chrysler section, usually in the Johnny/Evinrude neck of the woods.<br /><br />Have this old Chrysler, on a 1976 Flare. Model number of engine is 457H9K, I think it is also 1976.<br /><br />It has sat for about 2 years, not sure how well it was winterized but it ran well before that I know.<br /><br />Hooked up a fresh battery just to see if it will turn over, and so I can run my other tests. It just clicked. starter spindle didn't move at all. I know the battery is strong and connections all look fine. I know this is a general question, but can someone tell me where to look first?<br /><br />Thanks in advance.<br /><br />Also, can you let me know if I am correct in my diagram? I have a manual but is a Clymer, 1966-1984, 3.5-140hp, so pretty general. <br /><br />

 

[novicetech]

Re: 1979 Chrysler - not run in a while

I belive that is a 1979 model, and yes those are the coils. What i would do is remove the connections and clean them with sandpaper. Do one at a time so you dont get any thing mixed up. The click you are hearing means that you are getting power to soleniod but you should still remove and clean all battery and ignition switch. If you get it started and it runs good fill those coil cracks with liquid electrical tape.

 

[eurolarva]

Re: 1979 Chrysler - not run in a while

To test the solinoid disconnect both fat wires (probably both red) for the solinoid. Set a meter to ohms and connect the leads to the lugs you removed the wires from on the solinoid. Have someone turn the key to the start position and the meter should go from infinate ohms to zero ohms. If so the solinoid is good.<br /><br />Chances are your starter is gummed up and needs to be taken apart and cleaned. Take it apart and do it in an area so that if the two brush springs fly off you can find them. Wipe all the carbon dust off and clean everything out with WD40 and rags and Qtips. Make sure when you are done that you get everything dry. If the brushes look really pitted or slightly elongated lightly sand them so they have a slight curve. Clean the commutator brass end till it is clean. Brasso works well however you probably wont need that. Wiping it down with WD40 and a rag should clean it up pretty good. hold the brushes in place with the springs in place using mono filiment fishing line. Put the thing back together and cut the fishing line. Use a light weight oil on the bendix. Do not oil any internal part of the starter. Then retest the starter.

 

[Scuda11]

Re: 1979 Chrysler - not run in a while

thanks guys, awesome.<br /><br />I plan on doing it tomorrow and will report back.

 

[Scuda11]

Re: 1979 Chrysler - not run in a while

delete

 

[Scuda11]

Re: 1979 Chrysler - not run in a while

Ok, just checked a few things.<br /><br />With Ignition on, measured the following: <br /><br />

<br /><br />and:<br /><br /><br />

<br /><br />First, is that my solinoid? and if so, does this test show that it is bad? I forgot to say that I am getting no voltage at the pos terminal on my starter.<br /><br />Thanks!

 

[eurolarva]

Re: 1979 Chrysler - not run in a while

On the bottom picture that is the starter solinoid. The small yellow wire on top goes to 12 volts when the key is turned to start. That creates a short to the two fat wires forward and aft of the solinoid while the key is in the start position. In case you are not aware of it by pushing the key in the choke will engage.(lots of new chrysler owners including myself did not know this)<br /><br />The top picture looks like a rectifier so you must have an alternator on that motor. I am not sure how you will be able to test it without the motor running. If motor was running you could test the battery to see if voltage goes up when it is running. Should get a minimum of 13 volts when motor is running.

 

[Scuda11]

Re: 1979 Chrysler - not run in a while

thanks very much, appreciate the info.<br /><br />So should I be getting 12 volts on the red wire on the right when the key is on? If not, does it mean a bad solinoid?<br /><br />Thanks again, appreciate all the help!

 

[eurolarva]

Re: 1979 Chrysler - not run in a while

No. You will not get 12 volts on the right side when the key is in the on position. The key should be spring loaded when you turn it clockwise. All the way to the right is the start postition. When you let go of the key it should spring back to the on position. When you have the key switch turned all the way to the start postion you should have 12 volts on the right leg of the solinoid. However if your starter is bad the volts could drop real low and even to zero volts. <br /><br />Here is the best way to test the solinoid. Disconnect the lead on the right (This should go to the starter). connect your meter to ground and to the post on the solinoid the wire was connected to. Have someone turn the key switch all the way to the right to the start position. Now you should have 12 volts on the right post of the solinoid. If you dont verify the shifter is in neutral. There is a neutral interlock switch on the starboard side of the motor. The small wire on top of the starter solinoid will go to that switch. If that switch is not engaged power wont go to the solinoid and the starter can not be engaged. Hope this helps

 

[Scuda11]

Re: 1979 Chrysler - not run in a while

It definitely does, thanks! I will test those tonight when I get home from this temporary distraction from fishing called work.

 

[Jcrain]

Re: 1979 Chrysler - not run in a while

Hi Scuda, First off, that's a fine engine you got. I got it's twin, all the way down to the cracked coils and start problem. On mine, I turn the key to "start" and it will just click. Same as yours. If I try it three or four times, it will spin the starter about a half of a turn and it'll start right up. The problem with MY 45 is that I used a automotive solinoid (cheap, made in Mexico) and it won't last in the wet/damp environment of lakes more than one season. You can get by this season with a cheapo made in mexico or go for a real marine type and go for a few seasons, it's up to you and your budget. But, IMHO you got a bad solinoid.<br />Later dude, Jack

 

[Scuda11]

Re: 1979 Chrysler - not run in a while

Thanks Jack! Appreciate the info!! Do you have any good online places for parts?

 

[eurolarva]

Re: 1979 Chrysler - not run in a while

Your motor is 1979. Here is a blow up of the starter. Starter Blowup <br />I only see Two screws holding the starter together on the blowup. Chances are they are corroded. PB Blaster and some heat are your best options however if corrosion has taken its toll you may have to cut the screws and get new ones. My starter is 1967 and is slighly different then yours. The two screws holding the starter together also hold it to the mounting bracket.<br /><br />When you get it all cleaned out and back together you can probably bench test it with a 10 amp battery charger but you will want to make sure that it is held down in a vise or something so when it powers up it dont take off on you.

 

[Scuda11]

Re: 1979 Chrysler - not run in a while

Hi guys. I have the starter off and in my shop. I have 4 screws on the housing that need to come out to take off the commutator cap. They do NOT want to come out. Applied some PB Blaster and let it soak, nothing.<br /><br />Any ideas? Also, how can you "bench" test the starter?<br /><br />thanks

 

[Jcrain]

Re: 1979 Chrysler - not run in a while

Yeah, ditto on what Euro said about holding it. They got a LOT of torque and will spin around on the becnh on you.

 

[Scuda11]

Re: 1979 Chrysler - not run in a while

cool advice <br /><br />Do I just ground it to anything and put pos to pos?

 

[eurolarva]

Re: 1979 Chrysler - not run in a while

I would connect the mounting bracket if you can. Find bare metal that is not painted and use that for the ground.

 

[Scuda11]

Re: 1979 Chrysler - not run in a while

Good tip.<br /><br />Question for you guys. This is what I have:<br /><br />

<br /><br />I tried soldering the wire back into the brush, no joy. Is there a starter rebuild kit? or when you get new brushes do they come with this wire?<br /><br />Thanks allot!

 

[eurolarva]

Re: 1979 Chrysler - not run in a while

Merc site shows the brush kit is no longer availible. A new starter is about 170 dollars but there may be a couple on Ebay. Look around locally for places that sell starters. They may have a brush kit that will work for you. On my starter there are access holes on the side to disconnect the brush wires. Does your have this? From the picture it looks like the starter saw an awful lot of heat. How much of the brushes were left? When you got the starter apart did the brushes shoot out or were they stuck in place?<br /><br />look at item 24 HERE <br /><br />Maybe print this out and see if someone who works on starters or alternators has these parts

 

[eurolarva]

Re: 1979 Chrysler - not run in a while

I found this starter on the internet. Looks like it would work<br /><br /> Starter