Here are some comments on Seacast..

Saperry

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 13, 2001
Messages
99
Re: Here are some comments on Seacast..

I don't know, I've never finished anything...<br /><br />Good Luck with your project
 

Franki

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Feb 16, 2002
Messages
1,059
Re: Here are some comments on Seacast..

Ditto... (I hope yours goes well too.)<br /><br />I will be taking lots of photos if I use seacast, so I'll post a page address once I am done, and I'll be happy to apply any test you guys might want to the final product. (anything that won't damage the boat glass anyway..)<br /><br />rgds<br /><br />Frank
 

Franki

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Feb 16, 2002
Messages
1,059
Re: Here are some comments on Seacast..

Hi guys, I emailed a link to this topic to seacast, and someone called seacast1 posted to the seacast topic in the motors forum... (and they suggested photos, and sending samples and stuff.. and they were a new poster)<br /><br />so maybe we have a seacast employee on the list now...<br /><br />might be a good time to ask questions if any of you have them.<br /><br />rgds<br /><br />Frank
 

evin300

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 4, 2001
Messages
384
Re: Here are some comments on Seacast..

Franki, I thought you were the Seacast employee? LOL, just kidding. Gosh, I couldnt help but notice that seacast1 refrained from addressing my particular concerns. I will be curious to see how your transom goes, I hope it works well.<br /><br />As far as time goes, 8 hours? for this job? count me as VERY sceptical. Just some words of experience: You are going to remove the transom without removing the deck? (add lots of time)<br /><br />You plan on saving the inner Transom fiberglass? forgitaboutit, In most cases it is just a single layer or two of glass and resin. The time spent saving it is lost by having to work around it.<br /><br />I personally, did not remove the outer Hull glass, why ruin the looks of your boat? A chainsaw works great to remove the wood and preserve the glass, It should be the first tool of choice, I had no intention of saving the inner glass, as it is only for looks IMHO, and would have greatly impaired the removal of the rotten wood.<br /><br />Question: When you finally get below the finished floor surface, how well will the Seacast bond to the end of the wet stringers? Oh ya, odds are, your stringers are wet also. Dont mean too sound so negative, but this happens more often than not.<br /><br />At this point a decision must be made, tear up the floor and replace the stringers? Ouch, time to buy all of the materials and tools required for fiberglass and WOOD bonding, In hindsight, you would have saved time and money by just planning on replacing all of the wood in the first place.<br /><br />Been there an done that, however, never tried Seacast, I hope that you will take the time to give a full account of your experience with Seacast, so that we can all learn from it, I really do hope it goes well for you.<br /><br />And finally, I live in the Pacific Northwest and fungus grows on live and dead trees all of the time, dont sweat it.<br /><br />P.S. Just for giggles, click on my profile, my particular motor is mounted to ONE layer of 3/4" plywood, there is enough horsepower on this boat to lift it completely into the air at 10mph over a 2' wave. Not one spider web crack! 21 foot boat, Motor: 300hp, 565 lbs, set 17" back from transom, the key in my case, is 1/2" aluminum 90 deg. angle brackets bolted through the floor stringers and transom, (2 reqd.) installed from factory. The stringers are approx. 2x6 lumber encased in glass. The angles are approx 24" x 24" x 3" x 1/2" thick.<br /><br />Regards, Mike
 

Franki

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Messages
1,059
Re: Here are some comments on Seacast..

Hi Evin...<br /><br />As I said, the above example is my boat, others would no doubt be differnet..<br /><br />my inner skin is worth saving. for one thing I have a huge full lengh spashwell joined to it, for another, I have not found any piece of fibreglass on the boat that isn't over 5mm thick.. everything.. its like the boat was build by someone that seriously underestimated the strength of fibreglass... so the inner and outer transom walls are both very think... I would endevour to keep both.. (I think I could remove all the wood, and it would still hold the motor, thats how thick his stuff is.)<br /><br />next question.. the stringers.. well, if they were rotten, I'll pull them out and replace them with seacast or some other composite as well...<br />then you know you'll get a bond..<br /><br />if they are not rotten, I'd dry them out with heat lamp and/or gun.. and yes, I'd probably put resin over them to inprove the stick...<br /><br />doing that small amount is very different to the whole thing... <br /><br />Still as I said before, to each his own.. for me it stops me having to cut the back out.. and the front is not an option due to the well and support structures.. so this is all I really can use. (though what this will look like with the deck off I don't know, its completly unbolted, but still stuck fast.. I think it was glassed on)<br /><br />I'd take it on a case by case basis I think..<br /><br />regards<br /><br />frank
 

terryc

Seaman
Joined
Aug 18, 2001
Messages
56
Re: Here are some comments on Seacast..

I replaced my transom from the outside with layers of fibreglass, what a major job it turned out to be. i've ended up with a strong transom, but it was a time consuming, dirty, dusty & smelly job which dragged on and even upset the neighbours. i reckon the pourable transom idea sounds great, quick and easy with minimum mess, and no cosmetics to worry about. By the way i have been advised in time past that it is fresh water that causes the rot, not salt water. <br />If you can sell that product in australia, i think it would be extremely popular. Good luck!
 

crab bait

Captain
Joined
Feb 5, 2002
Messages
3,831
Re: Here are some comments on Seacast..

you are absolutely right !! if it rained saltwater there would not be much rot..also if the wood just stayed wet with fresh water,,, it would take alot longer for rot to develope.... the presents of water molecues causes rot spores an that happends for-the-most-part when wet wood drys out... hense DRY ROT...
 

outonbizniz

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 12, 2002
Messages
128
Re: Here are some comments on Seacast..

Frank...When i removed the rub rail to lift the lid off my hull there were several places where the lid was glassed to the hull. Usually just some light weight roving. There were 2 spots (port and starboard) forward as well as the entire lenght of the transom. I used a rotary saw and a very steady hand to cut these joints.
 

Saperry

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 13, 2001
Messages
99
Re: Here are some comments on Seacast..

Mine was only glassed at the motor well on the front side of the transom. I broke the bond with a cold chisel and a hammer.
 

Franki

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Messages
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Re: Here are some comments on Seacast..

outonbizniz , <br /><br />I can't see where mine is bonded.. it is probably at the very back and the very front from the look of it.. but I want to make sure it helps before I go doing it.. this is a half cabin, so it will be alot more of a pain as a result.. If I don't have to, I don't want to...<br /><br />thanks for the tip though..<br /><br />rgds<br /><br />Frank
 

outonbizniz

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 12, 2002
Messages
128
Re: Here are some comments on Seacast..

SA..guess you're more of a brute force kind of guy. I usually switch to that method after method one doesn't work and a walk around the boat 2 or 3 times cursing.
 

Saperry

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 13, 2001
Messages
99
Re: Here are some comments on Seacast..

The transom was rotten to the core. It was only glassed at the top center. About 18" across and 6"deep. And not glassed very well. It took maybe 45 min and no more than one beer. Then I put a small floor jack on the floor of the boat under the top cap up against the transom. It popped right up. I did not try to pick it up in my garage untill I knew it was completly free.
 

evin300

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 4, 2001
Messages
384
Re: Here are some comments on Seacast..

Your plan sounds good too me Franki. I would like to see you get the top off, especially since its un-bolted, maybe a long putty knife with a hammer or a thin long wood chisel as suggested. The bond from the splashwell to the transom also adds strength, be sure to repeat this bond. With a little effort I am sure you can break the bond. <br /><br />The stringers, if they are soaked, could take month(s) to dry as the water in the wood and foam will continuosly wick to the end where the heat lamp is. <br /><br />Consider taking a metal clothes hanger and cut off the longest straight piece, then sharpen the end similar to a chisel, (no precision reqd.) Chuck it up to a drill and run it through the floor and into the foam, see if it comes out wet. You could even run it into the stringers for the same test. It really works well!<br /><br />It is much easier to plan a project like this if you know the scope of it beforehand. Good Luck
 

terryc

Seaman
Joined
Aug 18, 2001
Messages
56
Re: Here are some comments on Seacast..

For what it's worth, Instead of lifting off the whole top deck, some people cut through both side decks a couple of feet from the transom and then only lift off the rear section of the deck. Of course the seperation on both sides will finally have to be repaired, but seems a lot easier than lifting off the whole half cab.
 

Saperry

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 13, 2001
Messages
99
Re: Here are some comments on Seacast..

I have seen people lift off just the rear deck but I think it is a mistake. The rear is where most of the bond from upper to lower hull is. Once you have separated it at the rear, it is not much more work to free the front. If you cut the rear deck to leave the front inplace, you will leave "scars" in the finish where they were cut.<br />The time and money invested in repairing the cut would have been less in just removing the whole top.<br /><br />I have heard that on a Ranger boat cutting out the rear deck is the only way to go because the two decks are glassed together all the way around. I don't know this for a fact, just something I was told by a repair shop that replaces alot of transoms.
 

Franki

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Feb 16, 2002
Messages
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Re: Here are some comments on Seacast..

Hi guys, <br /><br />Sorry didn't answer sooner, had to install winXP on my pc since win2000 was causing probs.. if it wasn't for my scanner and burner (USB) I'd use linux totally. :) at least the winblows box has a linux server between it and the internet.. :) <br /><br />Anyway, evin, my rear underfloor has no foam at all, I removed it years ago when I pulled up the floor (which shows no sign of rot.) I pulled it up to put the two massive jarrah beams in there, but while I had it up, I soaked the stringers in undustrial paint.. (they were dry to the bone.)<br />as for pulling the cabin and rear cover off. that is going to be a he!! of a job if I decide to do it.. its big, its solid and very heavy...<br /><br />I might try and unbond it from the hull and just rope the back up in the air above the hull for work, then I can just lower it down later..<br />but to be honest I was hoping to avoid that altogher... I'd rather cut the rear floor out. (the last 2 feet is fiberglass under the splash well) so I can get to the very rear of the transom and see what needs doing.. my stringers are actually pretty easy to get to.. my whole floor is treated 3/4 marine ply bolted down. so the only place they are hard to get to is under the cabin floor, and last time I checked, they were fine up that end.. but I'll worry about that some other time..<br /><br />I think I will replace only the rear 6 foot of the stringers.. since they are bolted to the two jarrah beams under the floor.. I can replace the rear of the strings with seacast or something.. and leave the front as is.. and bolt the seacast every 4 inchs to the jarrah beams (2x6inch they are) that way the support will still be there and probably stronger then it ever was.. (good bit heaver to.. :)<br /><br />with the design of my hull, (clinker style) the thickness of my fibreglass and the seacast/jarrah stringers.. I should have more strength then that boat will ever need.<br /><br />I just don't want anything rotten in there, it annoys me. :)<br /><br />guess speculation is pointless.. I never end up doing what I speculated, I always end up doing something different once I am in there and working..<br /><br />rgds<br /><br />Frank
 

crab bait

Captain
Joined
Feb 5, 2002
Messages
3,831
Re: Here are some comments on Seacast..

holey moley , FRANKI .. why not 'throw-in-the-towel' an just build a boat.. believe me ,, there's nothin' like it.. 100 % YOURS..
 

Franki

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Messages
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Re: Here are some comments on Seacast..

Hi Mr Crab bait...<br /><br />I practically did rebuild the boat..<br /><br />the cabin is mostly my creation as well..<br /><br />I didn't like the old look, was too old fashioned.. since I installed the network at my local window manufacturer.. I decided to make use of them.. I took an angle grinder, and cut most of the front out of the cabin.. then I made some aluminium surounds and redid the front in glass/perspex.. now it looks like the boat is wearing shades.. its all black tint laminated glass or perspex.. and it is unbroken glass all around the front of the cabin, (except for the central walkway I added to the front deck.)<br /><br />looks great and much better then walking around the side to get to the anchor..<br /><br />I rebuilt the trailer,, I changed the floor, I rebuilt the motor, made the dash, installed the new steering and a ton of other things.. except for molding the hull, I practially did build this boat.. and I have more to do yet..<br /><br />Its fun, but I am starting to think I'd rather be fishing.. :)<br /><br />rgds<br /><br />Frank
 

crab bait

Captain
Joined
Feb 5, 2002
Messages
3,831
Re: Here are some comments on Seacast..

i know what you mean... that's a lot of work... can you post a picture... love to see her..i would like to post some pics. of mine,, but i don't have a computor, printer , or dig. cam
 

Franki

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Feb 16, 2002
Messages
1,059
Re: Here are some comments on Seacast..

Hi Crabby..<br /><br />I am putting all my photos into a web page which I will post the links too soon as its ready..<br /><br />I would like to put my seacast experiance in there assuming I have one.. I think there isn't enough info on it available outside their site, if its as good as they say, it should be more popular..<br /><br />rgds<br /><br />Frank
 
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