70 HP Evinrude VRO Information

rickdb1boat

Supreme Mariner
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Jan 23, 2002
Messages
11,195
Re: 70 HP Evinrude VRO Information

Filter in blue circle for reference:

Picture-225-1.jpg
 

NealLauderman

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 12, 2007
Messages
191
Re: 70 HP Evinrude VRO Information

Alright Rick... you keep it up and your gonna have to start billing me :) thanks again bud.
 

NealLauderman

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 12, 2007
Messages
191
Re: 70 HP Evinrude VRO Information

So with it being upside down like that... does it hurt anything?
 

Ginder75

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 18, 2004
Messages
106
Re: 70 HP Evinrude VRO Information

I am interested in the fuel filter issue as well. My 1990 50 hp has a similar set up as pictured.

I have noticed that my fuel filter does not fill all the way, I get half way full but that is it.

My motor runs fine at idle, but I lose power at full throttle. I have replaced the fuel pump, because constant pressure on the fuel bulb corrected the problem. And everything else checked out (fuel line, carbs, tank, ...)

The location of this little filter would not be the cause of my problems would it?

I hate to hijack a thread, but this just hit me and it goes along with the conversation.

Can anyone help Neal and myself out with the PROPER location of the fuel filter and its relation to the other fuel lines.

Thanks,

Ginder75
 

NealLauderman

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 12, 2007
Messages
191
Re: 70 HP Evinrude VRO Information

Hey Ginder,

Dont consider it hijacking, your right... were already on the topic and this could be an issue I might see as well if I put her in the water.
 

rickdb1boat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
11,195
Re: 70 HP Evinrude VRO Information

It's basically just a screen inside the filter...Looks right to me....

convert
 

NealLauderman

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 12, 2007
Messages
191
Re: 70 HP Evinrude VRO Information

Ok Rick, now ya confused me :) That looks like a layout of the VRO to me. I also see the fuel filter over to the right. According to that diagram it looks like the fuel filer isn't upside down as it looks just like the diagram does.

Is it upside down or no?
 

iwombat

Captain
Joined
Jul 12, 2006
Messages
3,767
Re: 70 HP Evinrude VRO Information

If the guy that sold you the motor cranked it up for you w/o any water, even for a second, how many times do you think that happened with other potential buyers?

I'd be replacing that impeller reeeaal quicklike.
 

NealLauderman

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 12, 2007
Messages
191
Re: 70 HP Evinrude VRO Information

Sounds good. I can do that. I just need to wait for the book to come in so I can see what the impeller is :) lol

Hopefully it aint expensive. On a good note... I think I was the only one that went and saw the boat. The rest of the people stood him up.
 

NealLauderman

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 12, 2007
Messages
191
Re: 70 HP Evinrude VRO Information

Okay so let me get this right... the impeller and the water pump are the same thing?

Sorry for not knowing the terms. Is the impeller and the water pump both in that link that rick posted? Because I know it has been said that I need to replace both of them but the way its sounding is that they are the same thing or that the impeller is just a part within the water pump.
 

rickdb1boat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
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11,195
Re: 70 HP Evinrude VRO Information

The impeller normally referred to as the water pump. But when you replace it, it's good practice to also replace the other parts as well. That is a complete water pump "Kit"....
 

NealLauderman

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 12, 2007
Messages
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Re: 70 HP Evinrude VRO Information

Thanks Rick. I just got the boat home today so now I can start getting the parts and all that good stuff for her. Below is a list of things I am going to buying/replacing. Tell me if you think I should add anything to the list. The only thing we really know is that the engine will fire up. We are not sure how she runs in the water or any of that yet. But to prevent any damage that could happen, I am looking to fix the below.

* Ignition key.
* Lanyard for automatic kill if for some reason the driver was ejected :)
* Fuel Filter.
* 2-Stroke Oil.
* Lower unit lube.
* Water pump repair kit with housing.
* Service manual is on the way.
* Flush muffs.
* Spark plugs.

I have looked at most the wires and none of them really seem dry rotted so they should be good. Once I get these parts I plan to do the following.

1- Drain the oil from the oil tank.
2- Drain the gas from the gas tank.
3- Drain the oil from the lower unit.
4- Remove the spark plugs and replace them.
5- Install the water pump kit and housing.
6- Replace the oil in the lower unit.
7- Add two stroke oil to the oil tank and mark the level.
8- Add a gas/oil mixture to the tank at a 50:1 ratio.
9- Put the muffs on, crank the water on and fire her up... and hopefully she will fire right up and run fine. If all is well at that point. I think I might take her to the water and make sure the boat floats and all that good stuff :)


Does that sound about right or am I missing a few things? How should I know if I need to do anything to the carbs? The guy I got it from said that if I run her slow and what not... the carbs will clean themselves out, is this the case? I also read about people spraying something in the carbs while the motors running and it will clean them up but it smokes like all get out! What do you recommend I do?

Thanks again.
 

Ginder75

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 18, 2004
Messages
106
Re: 70 HP Evinrude VRO Information

Mix a can of fuel additive like Seafom in with that first tank of gas. It will smoke, but it will help decarb the motor and will aid in clearing the carbs.

Nothing you put in the gas will truely clean gummed up carbs, but a good additive seems to help loosen all that stuff up, so when you finally get around to tearing them apart. A few cans of carb cleaner, a carb rebuild kit, a little wire, and some compressed air will get them good as new.

Depending on how she runs, a compression test may be in order. It is a good way to check the mechanical condition of the cylinders. A stuck ring, or a blown head gasket can wreck havoc on a motor.

So far, you have seemed to listen well, and catch on pretty quickly. I lesson I learned the hard way, ask questions first. I minute of patience is a whole lot cheaper than a second of OOPPS!

Have a good time playing with the new rig of yours.

Ginder75
 

NealLauderman

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 12, 2007
Messages
191
Re: 70 HP Evinrude VRO Information

Ill tell you what... two days ago I knew close to nothing about these motors. I honestly feel like I know quite a bit about them now from reading these threads on here and asking questions.

I dont know how to do a compression test but I have seen others talk about doing them so I will have to look into it. I think that would be a good idea!

I am kind of on the fritz when it comes to doing the carbs myself. I am thinking I may have to pay someone to do that. I reckon ill wait till I get the manual and see if it seems as hard as I am making it out to be. I would definitely like to do it myself.
 

Ginder75

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 18, 2004
Messages
106
Re: 70 HP Evinrude VRO Information

I was with you on tearing the carbs apart. Hesitant, would be an understatement.

Here is what I did:
1. Remove all the parts that are in the way. (breather assembly/Air box (black box on front of the carbs), fuel pump, and as many of the associated hoses as you can remove.
2. You may want to take pictures, or note the position of throttle linkage, before you disassemble any further.
3. Pull both carbs as an assembly, do not worry about unhooking the linkage. Just be careful not to bend any of the linkage bars.
4. Lay the assembly on a clean towel on your work bench. There will be gas, oil, grime everywhere at this point. I would not do this on the kitchen table unless you like living on the boat.
5. Seperate the two carbs. Mine was a slip pin, that allowed the linkage to free itself and I could work on only carb at a time.
6. Following a good parts break down, remove all screws and gaskets. I usually start on the fuel bowl (bottom of the carb). As you disassemble, spray all passages with carb cleaner. I usually run a copper wire through these passages to make sure they are open. The carb cleaner will not open a clogged passage, but it will clean a gummed up on.
Tip - if you have any adjustable valves (air to fuel mix). They usaully are a screw with spring on them. I screw them down and count the number of turns it takes to lightly seat the valve. That way at reassembly, I have a good starting point for my motor. The book gives you a general range, but every motor has its quirks.
7. A model specific carb kit, works a great guide. If you find the cooresponding parts in the kit as you dissassemble you will know how far to take the carb down.
8. Clean everything, I speck of vanish can clog some of the small vents and that is all it takes to slow the motor down.
9. A good shot of compress air really helps clear all those small passages.
10. Reassemble in reverse order with new parts.

My manual did not go into great detail with respect to rebuilding the carbs. But some quality exploded parts diagrams made all the difference.

Pay attention to how the fuel flows through the card. It typically comes in through a fuel nipple and down a passage into the bowl. There a float, rises to close the needle valve and stop fuel flow until the motor needs more. The fuel exits the bowl through a tube that goes from the bottom of the bowl up into the body of the carb. There maybe several valves or orifices along the way that control how the fuel mixes with air as it enters the motor.

So, keep these passages clean and clear and the carb will preform like new.

Sorry for being long winded, but this information was given to me and I wanted to share with another boater in need.

Ginder75
 

iwombat

Captain
Joined
Jul 12, 2006
Messages
3,767
Re: 70 HP Evinrude VRO Information

When you go buy your lower unit lube get a screw-in lube pump and buy it in the quart size. Those little tubes will just drive you mad and the screw-in gizmo will save you a lot of grief. The pump screws into the drain plug hole and then screws onto the quart bottle.

You'll also need some washers for the lower unit drain plugs. They're cheap, so get at least 1/2 dozen so you don't need to go back to the dealer every time you want to change the LU lube.
 

iwombat

Captain
Joined
Jul 12, 2006
Messages
3,767
Re: 70 HP Evinrude VRO Information

As for the carb rebuild. I'd recommend that as the first mildly complicated procedure that a person with ANY ability with a wrench can do.

Read through the entire procedure in front of the engine before taking out any tools. Ask questions here on anything that isn't clear.

Take your time.

Take out a digital camera and take a picture or two before, and during disassembly.

Read carefully and follow the instructions.

If you do all of that you're 90% on your way to success already.
 
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