'68- 9.5 evinrude gearcase assembly

Haut Medoc

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I'm gonna reassemble this thing.....
Are there any places that I should put sealant other thanthe water pump gasket & the cap to housing seal?......:confused:
 

iwombat

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Re: '68- 9.5 evinrude gearcase assembly

The spaghetti needs sealant too - wait I guess that's the "cap to housing" seal? I'll go pull my manual and see what it says.
 

Haut Medoc

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Re: '68- 9.5 evinrude gearcase assembly

Both sides of the spaghetti?
Do any of the oil seals need any or they just push in?
The large oring looked like it had perfectseal or something?...:)
 

iwombat

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Re: '68- 9.5 evinrude gearcase assembly

"Wash machined faces of gearcase halves. Apply sealer 1000 to seal groove and lay strip in groove. Cut ends square and allow 1/32 inch to extend beyond the end of the goove . . . Add a little Sealer 1000 to ends of strip seal. Apply a thin line of Sealer 1000 to surface of upper gearcase . . . dip screws in perfect seal #4 . . .

Install new seal in bearing housing on gearcase. Apply Sealer 1000 to bearing housing and position impeller plate over bearing housing. . .

Attach impeller housing to gearcase with screws dipped in Perfect Seal #4 . . .




That's about it for sealants mentioned in the manual.
 

Haut Medoc

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Re: '68- 9.5 evinrude gearcase assembly


Ok, thanks!.......
I'm goin' in..........:D
 

ezeke

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Re: '68- 9.5 evinrude gearcase assembly

You need sealer around the oil seals for the driveshaft and propshaft. You need sealer around the o-ring on the bearing carrier a/k/a gearcase head assy. If you removed the bushing for the shift rod seal, you need sealer there.

The gearcase halves were originally to be sealed with Sealer 1000. Sealer 1000 is now called Adhesive M. It is 3M 847. You can ask your J/E OMC/BRP dealer for part #776964.

Substitutes for 3M-847 are Marprox Sealer 1000, Permatex 51813, or Loctite 518.

*******************

The seals and screws were to be installed with OMC Perfect Seal #4. That is now replaced by OMC/BRP Gasket Sealing Compound, part # 317201.

Substitutes for OMC/BRP Gasket Sealing Compound are Sierra part 18-9070, and Quicksilver Perfect Seal, among others.

http://www.iboats.com/Loctite_Form_A...-view_id.45136
 

Haut Medoc

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Re: '68- 9.5 evinrude gearcase assembly


I guess I should have checked back one more time ......:(
I only put the shift shaft in so not a total loss.....
THANKS!.......:) :)
 

Haut Medoc

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Re: '68- 9.5 evinrude gearcase assembly

I did put the one on the prop in......:mad:
Is the sealer mandatory?.....
I will probably waste the seal getting it back out.....
Please advise.....:(
 

iwombat

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Re: '68- 9.5 evinrude gearcase assembly

I always put seals in dry unless they're prone to pop out. Then they get red loctite. Anyway, mine went in dry and my LU is tight.
 

Haut Medoc

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Re: '68- 9.5 evinrude gearcase assembly


Mine went in tight , too.....
I'll put the sealer on the rest......
They did not appear to have any on them initially.....
I'll give it a shot.....
If I try to pull the seal it will be toast, & Seaway is closed today.....
If I have to redo it, I'll zip through it next time.....
Thanks!.......:)
 

ezeke

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Re: '68- 9.5 evinrude gearcase assembly

The factory service manual says to do those with the sealer. If the seal holds and doesn't leak, I don't see a problem. The seal on the propshaft is subject to quite a bit of stress, so checking it from time to time is a good idea.
 

iwombat

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Re: '68- 9.5 evinrude gearcase assembly

My '67 factory service manual makes no mention of using sealer on those. ezeke, what year manual are you using? I wonder if the recommendation changed at some point.
 

Haut Medoc

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Re: '68- 9.5 evinrude gearcase assembly

Well, got it together....
Just in time for the dumptruck to show up with the ten yards of beauty bark the admiral ordered....
So.....
After shoveling all that, I figgered I'd see if it would start....
It did!.....:)
I only cleaned the old plugs off & ran a little emory cloth over the electodes to shine 'em....
Anyway, it did run rough I thought....
I have no idea where to set the idle mix....
I would idle, but then it would die....
But would restart when the primer bulb was pumped....
It seemed like it needed choke to start, but would run with the choke off once it warmed up.....
I'll check the compression tomorrow, & check both cylinders for spark as well....
I'd like to say THANK YOU to Iwombat & Ezeke for your help......
I'm sure I'll have a bunch more new questions about how to get the liitle beast purring....
Thanks again!.........:)
The fuel line for the tank is old & had a teeny leak at the primer bulb so I'll fix that tomorrow as well....
What is the initial setting for the idle mix?....
I'd hate to run it too lean.....​
 

ezeke

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Re: '68- 9.5 evinrude gearcase assembly

To iwombat: 1968 through 1973 seal kits are the same 1964-1967 are the same.

The manuals get better as the series of 9.5HP mortors matures, but my working notes are in the 1971 Service manual, so here is a copy of page 6-8. from 1971 part # 4747:
 

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iwombat

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Re: '68- 9.5 evinrude gearcase assembly

Basically the same as my '67 manual with the addition of the sealant. Interesting.
 

Carbkid

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Re: '68- 9.5 evinrude gearcase assembly

What's the reason for putting sealer#4 on the screw threads? Is this to hold them in because of vibration?
 

ezeke

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Re: '68- 9.5 evinrude gearcase assembly

They leak gear oil sometimes.
 

iwombat

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Re: '68- 9.5 evinrude gearcase assembly

It also doubles as a corrosion preventative between the stainless and the aluminum.
 

Haut Medoc

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Re: '68- 9.5 evinrude gearcase assembly


Iwombat, what kind of compression #'s do you have?
Do you let it warm up & test like a fourstroke, just pulling out one plug at a time with the throttle wide open?.......:)
 

iwombat

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Re: '68- 9.5 evinrude gearcase assembly

Y'know I've never tested compression on mine since I put in a replacement powerhead last year. I _was_ getting 60psi before I decided it was time to rebuild/replace. In reality, I don't worry about the numbers much anymore. Just make sure they're even. If the motor has a hard time keeping an idle with everything else working correctly it's probably time to consider pulling a head and inspecting the bores.
 
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