1962 5.5hp Evinrude

[Pony]

Hey Guys,

As some of you know I have recently restored this motor. When I got it from my uncle a few years ago, he insisted the carb was clean because he went through it. I could run this motor in a bucket, but always had to be adjusting the mixture nobs and the choke to keep it running. I finally got sick of this and decided to rebuild the carberator. I bought the kit from here at iboats and THEN when out and started disassembling the linkages etc. I was really surprised when I found a cork float in there, which leads me to believe my uncle did not rebuild this carb. In fact the high and low speed needs are absolutely coated in varnish......as is much of the carb. All the o-rings etc are eaten away........its a wonder it ran at all. I have the whole thing apart now and soaking in some carb cleaner......waiting to be blown out with the air compressor.

I ordered the kit before realizing the float needs to be replaced as well. What part number is the float? Can it be boat seperately?.....or am I looking at buying a different kit from somewhere else. I have seen a few kits but it isnt specific as to whether a float comes with it. Any help would be much appreciated.

Here are a few pics so you all know what this carb looks like.....

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1962 5.5hp Evinrude

Float part number is 396514.

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

(Carburetor Float Setting)
(J. Reeves)

With the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly higher (just ever so slightly off level) than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not cocked.

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 1962 5.5hp Evinrude

I have a '61 5.5hp and rebuilt the carb last year. Mine was still cork also. They are very easy to rebuild. (took longer to re and re the carb!) I bought my kit from my local OMC dealer and it came with the float. From what I understand you can easily get the floats seperately.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1962 5.5hp Evinrude

Pony, just checked laingsoutboards.com he has them the same float apparently fits 3-20hp 54-68 8.95 and he'll charge 5.00 shipping. call him and it will go right out.

 

[Pony]

Re: 1962 5.5hp Evinrude

Pony, just checked laingsoutboards.com he has them the same float apparently fits 3-20hp 54-68 8.95 and he'll charge 5.00 shipping. call him and it will go right out.

Thanks Tash. I had never been to that site before. I ordered a float from him.

Joe, Thanks for those settings. Right after I posted I was doing a search for them, so you saved me some trouble. Can't wait to get the parts so I can get this little guy humming again.


Is there a way to tighten the throttle on this motor. The throttle doesnt like to stay in one place, so if I put the handle in start and pull the cord, it will slide back into the shift/slow area. If I let go of the throttle at all it will turn itself back that far. Makes it a pain to start since you have to have one hand on the throttle constantly.

I have looked at it a bit, just cant figure out what to adjust.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1962 5.5hp Evinrude

The throttle friction is a tapered plug and spring inside the twist grip. However, I would say that somebody has had the coils out of your magneto and didn't adjust the gap between them and the flywheel magnets when reinstalling. The coils are dragging on the magnets which rotates the armture plate as the flywheel turns.

Adjust the gap by placing the ends of the coil laminations exactly flush with the machined posts of the armature plate where they sit.

 

[Pony]

Re: 1962 5.5hp Evinrude

Thanks F R. I will definately take a look at that. When I got the motor, I also got a box full of points, condesors, and coils.....along with a complete timer base for this motor. It wouldnt shock me at all if what you say is true

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1962 5.5hp Evinrude

(Magneto Coil Alignment)
(J. Reeves)

To align the coils properly, have the metal vertical portion of the coil yokes aligned with the inside edge of the bevel that exists on the top portion of the aluminum seat upon which the coils sit. This creates the proper distance between the coils and the flywheel magnets. Faulty alignment creats friction and the yokes of the coils heat up, turn blue and expand.

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store

 

[F_R]

Re: 1962 5.5hp Evinrude

Inside edge? Sounds like you are advocating a bit of cheating to make up for sloppy armature plate mounting? That's all right, I do that too. Of course, if one were to use the coil locating ring tool, it would align with the verticle edge.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1962 5.5hp Evinrude

FR..... Not everyone has the alignment coil locating tool that we technicians have, hence the alternative alignment procedure provided by OMC. However, pertaining to your mention of a common problem, should anyone encounter a loose fitting wobbly armature plate, see the following.

(Magneto Armature Plate)
(J. Reeves)

If the armature plate has a a loose fitting, wobbling motion (the plate that the points, coils etc are attached to), it is usually caused by a slightly worn support ring. This allows the point setting to change erratically as the armature plate turns.

The cure is to remove the armature plate so that the support which is attached to the powerhead with 4 screws is visible. Then, with a screwdriver and hammer, or some tool of your choosing, and looking straight down at the support ring, make an indentation at what would be called the 12, 3, 6, and 9 O'clock positions. Install the armature plate and check for a smooth turning wobble free movement.

You may need to do that procedure a few times to obtain the proper fit (not too tight, not too loose), but it's worth the effort.

 

[Pony]

Re: 1962 5.5hp Evinrude

As long as I am doing maintainance, I want to replace the impellor. I have no idea when it was replaced last, and it worries me a bit. I am fairly positive that the powerhead has to be removed to do this. Is this true, and how "undressed" do I have to get the powerhead to remove it?

I have both Seloc and Clymers manuals for this motor. I have yet to find a factory service manual for it, but have change the waterpump etc etc on my 88' 25hp before.

 

[Pony]

Re: 1962 5.5hp Evinrude (Tune up help)

Re: 1962 5.5hp Evinrude (Tune up help)

I have the flywheel off now, and am checking the ignition components. The coils seem to be in okay shape, and if I need to replace them I can.....I have al least a dozen coils laying around.

As far as the coil positioning on the stator plate in regards to this issue I explained earlier, is there anything noticeable in this picture? Its a thumbnail to a full size pic.

Does it look like the coil is spaced correctly? I assume the spacing tool you guys are speaking of is to gauge the distance between the coil yoke and the crank.....

 

[F_R]

Re: 1962 5.5hp Evinrude

I can see at least one was rubbing, probably both. We are talking about them rubbing on the flywheel magnets.

 

[Pony]

Re: 1962 5.5hp Evinrude

I can see at least one was rubbing, probably both. We are talking about them rubbing on the flywheel magnets.

Yup those two spots are the first things I noticed when I got the flywheel off.

I was just trying to mentally figure out how a spacing tool would work.........not that it matters, I certainly dont have one.

Thanks F R. I'll have to go back and re read Joes post and adjust them.

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 1962 5.5hp Evinrude

Pony, to change the impeller you do have to remove the powerhead but it is very easy. There's 6-7 screws underneath that need to be removed. Nothing has to come off the power head, just remove the fuel lines is all that I recall. The whole thing comes off as 1 unit.

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 1962 5.5hp Evinrude

Oh, and I would replace the base gasket if you're removing the powerhead. Otherwise it'll probably leak water and cool the engine less.

 

[Pony]

Re: 1962 5.5hp Evinrude

Oh, and I would replace the base gasket if you're removing the powerhead. Otherwise it'll probably leak water and cool the engine less.

LOL I just spent a ton of time trying to find that gasket and finally did.

This started with a carb rebuild, and now I have a powerhead sitting on my workbench LOL. I started by removing the thermostat housing. When I discovered how bad the thermostat was, I decided that I MUST replace the impeller no matter what. I have always wondered why so much oily sludge was in the pan with this motor. I think that the gasket between the powerhead and the exhaust chamber was eaten away some time ago.

When I first got the powerhead off I was surprised at just how much carbon buildup there was in the exhaust manifold. I litterally scraped out pea sized chunks. I think that once I get the powerehead itself cleaned off, I am going to soak the cylinders with sea foam. I can see my piston tops have some build up through the spark plug hole. I bought a head gasket too, so I will probably remove that too and really clean this pup out.

Next step is a waiting game for parts. I ordered from 4 different online stores so its a race to see which part I get first. I will spend my free time cleaning this powerhead and the pan. Hopefully then the carb kit will come so I can begin getting that put back together. PICS ARE THUMBNAILS>>>>>>GET TO CLICKING!

 

[Xcusme]

Re: 1962 5.5hp Evinrude

Align surfaces A & B until flush....

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 1962 5.5hp Evinrude

Looks a tad dirty in there. Nothing a good cleaning wont fix. Yep, the project got a tad larger in scope but look at the great lil engine you'll have afterwards. And it really is quite easy working on the 5.5. Good luck

 

[Pony]

Re: 1962 5.5hp Evinrude

Xcusme thanks for the reference pic.......mine look like that now.

Yeah it is a very dirty crankcase, but truthfully I can wait to get to cleaning it out. I am working on it as we speak

This is a chance to get this motor to run like it looks.