Gas leaking, interesting post with pictures, help

[oldpontoon]

I have a 1983, 90 HP Johnson Seahorse hooked up to a 28 ft JC pontoon.
Gas is leaking. I found that is dripping significantly from one screw at a particular place. I'm new to this so I don't know all the parts of the motor..so I took pics for you to help me 1) identify the parts 2) give me a clue where the gas is coming from (broken seal) 3) is this a big job?

I took picture in sequence that zoom in, a placed an arrow pointing to the screw where the gas is coming from. It's at the bottom, really close to where the two parts that are circled (one is gray and one is tan) are bolted together. It's dripping quite bit, about a drop every 3 to 5 seconds when the motor is running. Is there a gasket between these two parts that could be dried out? is this a big job if thta is the case?

What is the gray part called? I apologize for being ignorant
Thanks for the read and the help.

 

[F_R]

Re: Gas leaking, interesting post with pictures, help

First, the "gray" (unpainted) parts are the carburetors. You are pointing to one of the screws that hold the float bowl on. Yes, there are gaskets for both the float bowl and where the carburetor bolts onto the intake manifold.

To fix would take buying a carb repair kit (takes one for each carb) and taking them apart and replacing the stuff that comes in the kit. Linkage will have to be adjusted when reassembling.

If you plan to tackle such a job yourself, by all means get a factory service manual first.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Gas leaking, interesting post with pictures, help

factory service manuals can be gotten here, well worth the price. outboardbooks.com

 

[reload]

Re: Gas leaking, interesting post with pictures, help

Looked like it was pointing to the fuel pump to me, need to get my eyes checked.

 

[oldpontoon]

Re: Gas leaking, interesting post with pictures, help

One of the arrow was pointing to the area below the fuel pump. But it did look confusing.

OK so those are the carbs.........finally found them HaHa!

Bought a service manual and started reading.

How specific are the pieces for these rebuild parts........in other words.......how can I find the good parts for this and do they change a lot form one year to the next?

Thanks for your help. I'm learning tons form this forum. I'm new but not stupid This boat is huge and I can't take it out of the water all the time. I need to learn how to do thses things.

Thanks again
Marc

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Gas leaking, interesting post with pictures, help

get the Johnson kit for your engine, not one of the aftermarket kits, they may have parts for 4 different carbs in them. with the manual, and directions in the kit, and help here, not a hard job. start making your special tool #317002 which is about $20. screw driver to remove the fixed jets. made mine with the belt sander. here's info:

to get the core plugs out i have a small short ice pick i puncture them and pry them out. then use a small dowel and hammer it install the new ones.

 

[oldpontoon]

Re: Gas leaking, interesting post with pictures, help

Where can I buy this tool you mention?
Would Sierra be an aftermaket brand? Or would it be described as made by Johnson?

Thanks
M

 

[72Glastron]

Re: Gas leaking, interesting post with pictures, help

has anyone mentioned maybe if you try tightening the screws/nuts, they could be just loose a little and causing the leak.

just an idea

 

[oldpontoon]

Re: Gas leaking, interesting post with pictures, help

No I did not think of tightening the screws...........DOH! I'll try that. I did find OMC carb rebuild kits today and bought them. I'll refrain from tearing this thing apart until I see what tightening the screws does. My feeling is that it won't change but I would love to be surprised.

 

[iwombat]

Re: Gas leaking, interesting post with pictures, help

Tightening the screws would just relieve the symptom anyway. That it's leaking there indicates the float needle isn't closing up properly. No way gas should be up to the top of the float bowl. At the very least you need to set the float level. Might as well do a full rebuild while you've got it all apart.

 

[oldpontoon]

Re: Gas leaking, interesting post with pictures, help

OK guys, I hope you will stick by me here.........the destruction.......euh!....dismantling has begun. Never touched a motor in my life.....hope I don't kill it. Let's see how good you guys are at guiding a totally green mechanic through this

Following the book. Taking lots of pics to make sure I reassemble this puppy correctly. Made it to the carbs and almost removed the top one......I don't have the right wrench to get into the tight areas and the last nut is stipping. Here are the questions

1)once I get this bolt off, I'm going to have to replace it. Are these nuts galvanized or something since there are exposed to water and such? Aside from size to fit? Anything special?

2) What in God's green earth is this thing that I have circled? Part of the fuel system delivery? Look at the pic.

3) I of course had to detach some tubes here and there. Some of them did not have any zip ties around them to secure them fully. I plan on putting some on when I reattach them. DO I need any special zip ties? Tension wise?

4) One of you mention "linkage" what does that mean?

5)It seems like I need to soak these carbs to clean them up. Can you tell me EXACTLY what to get?

6) I need to know where I can buy this special tool you mention. Right now.....I have no clue what it's for but I'm learning as I go here........don't cringe guys I can do it...I hope......tooo late now I don't have much time to create my own. This boat needs to be working by the 11th of August.

7) WHEN I SAY I HAVE NO CLUE..........I REALLY DON'T

I appreciate all you support. I'm having fun with this even if it is nerve racking.
Marc

 

[oldpontoon]

Re: Gas leaking, interesting post with pictures, help

OK I have on carb in my hand.
I'm looking at the SELOC book and trying to follow the steps.but the carbs in the book has one chamber and mine has two.
The book mentions removing a high speed orifice from the float bowl......mine does not have one.

are the low speed plugs inside the chambers...ion the upper part?

How do you remove the float hinge pin? Does it screw in? I want to make sure I do it the right way.

Also the kit came with a bag that is called the sub assembly kit. there are quite a few washer in that bag. This is separate from the inlet needed bag.
There are two brass looking plates also in that bag. Where do they go?

Please LMK about the questions above also.
Thanks

 

[iwombat]

Re: Gas leaking, interesting post with pictures, help

I can answer some, but not all of your questions. So, here goes.

1) All the fasteners are stainless. You should be able to get replacements at your local hardware store.

2) Heckif I know. I have a decent idea, but not sure. If no one chimes in I can go look at the parts diagram and find out for you.

3) Regular old zip ties try and find some close to the same thickness.

4) Linkage - mechanical doo dads that flip all the levers, shafts and rollers in connection with the controls.

5) Go to your local auto parts store and look for a gallon can of carb cleaner chemical bath. All kinds of brands, choose the cheapest. It'll be right with the aerosol carb cleaners and looks just like a paint can.

6) I think everyone just pretty much makes their own. You got a bench grinder, or a good file and a cheap screwdriver? Johnyrude store might have one.

. . .

on to the next posting

If you could take a picture of what you're working with we can point to the correct parts. You can also look at the exploded diagrams on the bombardier site and find what's what.

The float pin just pushes out. A small jeweler's screwdriver will push it out. So will a sturdy toothpick.

If you look on your carb you'll find two disks similar to the ones in your kit on the top side of the float bowl near the engine size of the carb. You'll need to pop those out, clean out the idle circuit jets and put the new one back in. Save that for last. It's the only real technical operation on this carb rebuild. Let's get the rest out of the way before we tackle this one. If you're not comfortable with performing that procedure you _may_ be able to get by with just the soaking.

EDIT: By "top side of float bowl" I mean on the carb body sitting above the float bowl. Not, on the top of the bowl itself (the removeable part called the float bowl). Maybe I should have said top of the float bowl area. Anyway, hope you get the idea.

 

[oldpontoon]

Re: Gas leaking, interesting post with pictures, help

First thank you for the reference to the Bombardier website where I found the diagrams and where I can at least give a name to what I'm looking at and see how they come together.

I'll still put these pics up to see if I'm thinking straight.

1) first pic..........core plugs are indicate by the red "1" and red "2" right? Puncture and remove? If puncture what is the best way to do it? The new ones would snap in?

2) Look at the first pic again.......what is marked as red "3" is the roller,cam followed. Can this be removed and how? I'm reading that plastic parts should not be dipped in the cleaner.

2) second pic do you see the orifices? need to be removed? Or not?

BTW I ordered the special screwdriver. Trying to reduce the error margin as much as I can.

Thank you again, this site has been great help.
Marc

 

[iwombat]

Re: Gas leaking, interesting post with pictures, help

1 & 2 are the core plugs. I drill them and pry out with a small punch or jeweler's screwdriver. They can be stubborn. Careful when drilling. Drill slow and if you don't feel any resistance anymore STOP. There's about 1/8" air gap behind the plug before you hit the goods. The new ones will set on top and will need to be punched in place. Dome side out, find a flat punch and drive in until flat. The manual calls for gasket compound around the edge. I usually put them in dry. I'll let you figure out which way you want to go.

I'm not familiar enough with your carb to suggest how to remove the roller cam. I think you can probably set the rest of the carb in the goo while hanging that piece above the goo-line. Even if not, a couple hours won't hurt it. The plastic parts you really need to watch out for are o-rings and washers inside the carb body.

Those fixed jets (orifices) should be removed and cleaned separately if they're slotted and you can get the tool on them (Again, never worked on this particular carb). Gunk likes to settle in and live right behind them.

Edit: Okay, I cheated and looked at the diagram. Remove those jets and clean in behind.

 

[oldpontoon]

Re: Gas leaking, interesting post with pictures, help

OK I removed the carbs
Took out the core plugs and everything else I could take out.

Seems like I have alot of washers that I can't figure out where they go.

I added some pics. The one with the numbered washers came from the sub assembly kit. The "1" I know are the O-RING,Screw plug but the others....I have yet to see them on the carb. DO they add extra parts? He is the brekdown of the other items on this pic.

2) beats me!
3) beats me!
4) beats me!
5) beats me!
6) beats me! Little white plastic piece with a hole in it.

Also noted on the second pic are the two golden shaft that come through the carburetor. DO they need to be removed or are they fixed?

One carb is on the cleaner right now...... hope I get this right.

Thank you again for all the input.
Marc

 

[clemsonfor]

Re: Gas leaking, interesting post with pictures, help

Good work and great job having the confidence to do this yourself, you will now have more confidence in your skills when a problem arised. I learned to about 2 years ago, i had worked on automotive engines, just never an outboard and never any carbs. I know the feeling of not knowing what to do next. Read your directions and follow them and the parts that are unclear continue to ask like you are and have done! Great job there. keep at it and dont give up!

-Nate

 

[oldpontoon]

Re: Gas leaking, interesting post with pictures, help

OK
Got the carbs back on.
Started it but had to choke it a lot.
It would skip a little like there was maybe a gas delivery problem . It would stall if I let it idle. Had to keep it on high idle.

I look at the area below the lower carb and I still see gas leaking from the float bowl screw........which is what the initial issueswas.gas leaking.

Took the lower carbs off to see if I had done something wrong.

I look under the area where thelower carbs hooks up to the intake manifold and on the intake manifold I see a connection where there should be a tube connected.........I found a tube that was completelyloose so the carburetor gasket may not have been the problem initially.

I connected the tube and put the carb back on.....

Now it won't start......it turns but doesn't go.

One thing I notice is I no longer hear a click sound when I push the key in.
So maybe the choke doesn't work?
Did I burn something electrical?
Is it the fuel pump?

One thing I noted now is that the priming bulb does stay hard where before it never would get hard. Does that mean something? It got hard as soon as I put the cleaned carbs in but before I noticed that that tube was disconnected.

I frustrated.
Please help
Marc

 

[oldpontoon]

Gas was leaking, now won't start, pump? Choke issues?

Gas was leaking, now won't start, pump? Choke issues?

Double post
See above

 

[clemsonfor]

Re: Gas leaking, interesting post with pictures, help

make absolutly sure that the float levels are set correctly, and that your linkages are opening your carb butterflys at the correct time, known as a link n sinc (see ur manual). The click you hear, at least on old motors like mine is the choke solonoid actually pulling the choke butterflys closed!

All i can say is to double chech your floats and all adjustments you made. To check to see if it is not getting gas take some premix gas in a spray bottle and spay down the throat of the carbs and see if it starts if it does it is not getting gas, if it does not may mean its flooded. Also after starting you can pull a spark plug and see if it appears too wet!

-Nate