197+ late model 1150 issues

[sonicgarden]

hey all,

I have a 1150 inline 6 late 70's distributor model thats having issues.

It took forever to start, when it did get started, i let it warm up for about 5-10 minutes...we boated around the lake for a while at 70% throttle then she began to lurch until finally we lost all power, it choked and died.

I have a generic manual for the inline 6 and have started work on it but still have some questions that the manual doesnt answer...hopefully y'all can!

1) The primary timing is supposed to be set at 4-6 BTDC as is stamped on the sticker on the mount but how do you adjust it?! where is the screw or "tang"? I know how to set the max spark advance with the screw for 21 degrees BTDC, but how do you set the primary timing?

2) there is a little blue electical do-hickey that seems to have one wire coming from the distributor connected to it, which in turn is connected to the ignition/electical panel and then there is another wire coming outthe end that seems to be a ground wire because itas just screwed into motor frame. Any ideas on what that is? One of the wires is severally compromised and it seems you have to replace the whole unit, but i dont know what it is?!

3) on the boat i have, there is a little rubber hose that comes our of the spedometer mounted up front...where do I connect this hose on my motor so that my spedometer works?

4) I think i have identified the fuel pump, but what it the fuel filter? is it that white cylindrical container about 2-3 inches long? If i get a new one, do I replace that whole thing or something inside of it?

Here's hoping you all can help!

 

[Chris1956]

Re: 197+ late model 1150 issues

Sonic If you post your serial num, we can pin down the year. The blue elec device is a mercury switch that kills the ignition if the motor over tilts.

Do a search for "inline Merc Link and Synch" for procedure to set timing. Primary pickup timing on that motor is set by rotating a collar on the distributor to touch the carb throtle arm. The three screws above the dist on that plate control idle stop, max timing advance, and throttle stop.

The speedo is plumed to a standard pitot, not the motor

Depending on the year, the fuel filter sits on top of the fuel pump, and is held on by a single phillips screw.

 

[sonicgarden]

Re: 197+ late model 1150 issues

Hey Chris,

First and foremost, thanks for your post!!

The serial number is 711226 and the last number is worn off but i think its a 6, 3 or 8. Im pretty sure its a 78 because it has the fixed timing pointer...and the year on this sticker looks like a 78:

http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j212/Sonicgarden_2006/?action=view&current=stamp.jpg

Here is a pic of the switch i am talking about.

http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j212/Sonicgarden_2006/?action=view&current=switch.jpg

Will i need a new switch? Can the motor function without it? Should I take it off?

I have posted a couple of pics on the distributor setup:

http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j212/Sonicgarden_2006/?action=view&current=distributor2.jpg
http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j212/Sonicgarden_2006/?action=view&current=distributor.jpg

any idea which collar I have to adjust? In the pic you can see to adjustment screws with red ends on them. The top one seems to adjust the carb arm and the bottom is the idel stop (which as you can see...serves no purpose right now...it doesnt interact with the distributor at all!). how do I set the top one and what does it actually do?

hm...plumed to a standard pitot you say?....ahem...whats a 'standard pitot' my good man?!

Here is the fuel pump. I think i am pointing to the fuel filter with the screwdriver correct?

http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j212/Sonicgarden_2006/?action=view&current=fuel2.jpg

If so, should there be a filter of some sort in there? I took it off and all i see is a metal plate with two holes and a column that allows you to fix the cover....no filter of any kind?! perhaps mines missing? Would that cause my motor to stop though?

http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j212/Sonicgarden_2006/?action=view&current=fuel.jpg

In the picture above, whats the white cylindrical thing that is connected to the fuel filter?

Cheers and thanks alot ...again!

 

[diaric]

Re: 197+ late model 1150 issues

its a 1978. the motor can run without the kill switch. white cylindrical thing looks like an inline filter. this is the lync and sync procedure. http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=168855
check this site, it will give you a parts breakdown for you motor till you get a manual
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show...8&bnbr=9&bdesc=CARBURETOR+AND+ENRICHNER+VALVE

 

[sonicgarden]

Re: 197+ late model 1150 issues

Hey Diaric,

Thanks for that. I have that info, but this is where i have issues...

Timing Event One - throttle pickup.
As the throttle is advanced, the spark timing advances toward TDC and then to before TDC. As the timing is just passing TDC the 1st (minor)throttle pickup should hit and start to open the carbs. Use the timing light. Adjust the tang or trigger screw to make this a reality. All of them are speced different, but if the 1st pickup hits at 3-4 degrees BTDC advance - you win. Use the timing light with a friend cranking it to complete this setting.

Whats the tang or trigger screw?

Cheers!

 

[AMD Rules]

Re: 197+ late model 1150 issues

White cylinder is the fuel filter. Make sure to install the new one with fuel flowing in the direction shown by the arrow marked on the outside.

Screwdriver was pointed at the fuel pump assembly.

Attached below, is a pic of the tang/trigger screw on a the distributer. Second pic show the throttle pickup, aka timing event #1.

 

[Chris1956]

Re: 197+ late model 1150 issues

Sonic, Your screwdriver is pointed at the fuel pump filter screen cover. The white inline fuel filter is likely an add on by prev owner. I never had any luck with those, BTW, they always restricted fuel flow too much.

Your motor is pre 1979, but you can look up the exact year with your partial serial number at maxrules.com

Make sure you set the timing pointer accurately. It should be set to the .464 mark on the flywheel, after you have set the piston to .464.

 

[sonicgarden]

Re: 197+ late model 1150 issues

Thanks Chris and AMD!

Guys...if the white inline fuel filter has inherent issues, what can I replace it with?

Can you get those inline jobbies at Napa? Any idea what the part number would be?

Chris, i will definitely double check the accuracy of the pointer.

So to reiterate and simplify:

All I have to do to set the primary timing is pull the plugs except for #1, start manually cranking it over, and move the throttle into foward gear. Then check the timing and it should read 4-6 BTDC. If not, adust the trigger screw on the tang until it does?

Is that correct? I'm sorry if this is painful, but Im a newbie mechanic to anything!

Thanks 10 fold!

 

[jimg984]

Re: 197+ late model 1150 issues

1. Remove all plugs, and install dial indicator into #1 hole2. Turn flywheel CW until TDC and reset "0" on the indicator.3. Turn flywheel CCW until indicator needle is approx 1/4 turn past .464".4. Turn flywheel CW until dial indicator reads .464"5. Reposition timing pointer (if necessary) so that timing pointer is aligned with the .464 mark on the flywheel timing decal.Thats it for confirming the timing pointer position is correct.__________________

 

[AMD Rules]

Re: 197+ late model 1150 issues

So to reiterate and simplify:
All I have to do to set the primary timing is pull the plugs except for #1, start manually cranking it over, and move the throttle into foward gear. Then check the timing and it should read 4-6 BTDC. If not, adust the trigger screw on the tang until it does?

The white fuel filters are available at almost any marine store. If you change is seasonally, and inspect it periodically it should work fine.

You don't move the throttle to forward gear, for timing.

Confirm the pointer accuracy as per previous post.

First timing event is the primary pickup. Disconnect the throttle cable from the motor, then move the throttle arm on the motor by hand until the primary pickup is just touching the carb butterfly (see the image I posted earlier). That is exactly when you will want to see 4 to 6? BTDC when cranking the engine over (all plugs removed but #1).

Second timing event is maximum advance, when the throttle is moved to wide open (cable is still disconnected). Crank it again, and aim for 20? max.

There is a few other checkto make along the way. Consider purchasing a factory service manual and refer to Clams condensed notes on the timing procedure for clarification. They can be found here:

Timing and Sync of Merc Inlines (to 1988) - by Clams Canino

 

[Chris1956]

Re: 197+ late model 1150 issues

Sinic, To set the primary pickup, you may need to move the distributor "finger" that opens the carb thorttle plate. This "finger" is attached to a brass plate the is bolted to the rotating part of the dist. body, buy two 1/4" or 5/16" hex screws. These are loosened and the plate they hold is rotated to touch the carb throttle yoke, at the time the dissy just reaches 3-4 degrees BTDC.

The max dist. advance is easier. Open the throttle and crank it (#2-6 Plugs out and grounded), and observe the max advance. Now crank down the "Max adv" screw until it reads 21 degres BTDC and tighten the locknut.

 

[adesoto]

Re: 197+ late model 1150 issues

Let me ask a question, let say if these are factory set or if you take it to a mechanic and they have set these, what is the likely that they would move and if they move then how often would you need to do this?

Or is there somethig that deems for a time and sync tune up?
Thanks in advance for the info,

 

[diaric]

Re: 197+ late model 1150 issues

parts will wear, so timing may get a little out over time. the previous owner may have played with things and it also might not be correct. most mechanics i've seen tuning up a boat moter haven't touched the timing, but instead play with the carbs by ear till it seems right. the timing part of the link and sync just ensures its right, so that the carb adjustments will make the motor run its best. if the timing were out a little, no carb adjustment is going to make it run its best. the carb adjustments are fairly extensive in this and will get your motor running at its best.
when i used to tune up vehicles, timing was always one of the first checks and more often than not, it was a little out every time.

 

[Yepblaze]

Re: 197+ late model 1150 issues

I think you may have gone the wrong direction toward repairs from your issue.

Generally speaking, timing issues will not make it fall on it's face in the middle of the lake. (unless it's too far advanced and "holes" a piston, in which case it will limp around for a bit while it self destructs)

It would be my belief that you should put your energies more toward fuel system service.

A fuel pump kit, (perhaps one with check valves)
Carb removal and cleaning.
Probably remove that fuel filter and use the one in the pump kit instead.

From personal experience I can say that that type fuel pump can sometimes become problematic and to make sure when tightening it back together you tighten the (more) centered screw first to avoid case distortion and consequent leakage around the diaphragms.


These items can be had fairly cheaply and will help (if done properly) eliminate fuel starvation as the problem.

Tha's not to say that it couldn't be ignition related, just that's where I'd start.