merc specialty tools

[ziggy]

hi, gettin ready to do me up some ujoints....guess i need some more special tools......i was gonna get the serria version of c-91-38378 bearing retainer wrench and the ujoint adaptor for starts.....thems special tools are pretty expensive.....is the quality satisfactory of these tools.....got some glm tools for the bellow replacement and i think there all right, but generally, so far i ain't impressed with glm so thought i'd try serria from iboats or my local dealer has them too i'd reckon......anybody got any input one way or the other...oem would be great but i don't think i can swing the bread, it's already short.....hope i don't need it but may have to get shimming tool c-91-60523 if i got bad parts inside too. is the serria version of the shim tools satisfactory to get the deed done too.....

man, doin ujoints looks like it could get involved real fast if parts are bad.....

what kinda special mercruiser tools are you useing....oem, serria, glm, other?

 

[achris]

Re: merc specialty tools

I use the OEM, but I used to be a dealer so I got them at cost, which wasn't very expensive at all. Here's the thing, the dealers sell them to the public at extraordinarily inflated prices because they don't want people doing their own work. The dealer cost for the shim tools is about $60 each. Mercury WANT the dealers to have the tools, so make them dirt cheap. The dealers will sell them to you, Joe Public, for about $400.... They want you to bring the work to them, and be able to charge you for it.

Chris..............

 

[achris]

Re: merc specialty tools

I use the OEM, but I used to be a dealer so I got them at cost, which wasn't very expensive at all. Here's the thing, the dealers sell them to the public at extraordinarily inflated prices because they don't want people doing their own work. The dealer cost for the shim tools is about $60 each. Mercury WANT the dealers to have the tools, so make them dirt cheap. The dealers will sell them to you, Joe Public, for about $400.... They want you to bring the work to them, and be able to charge you for it.

One place you could try for the tools is http://www.mercruiserparts.com

Chris..............

 

[ziggy]

Re: merc specialty tools

hi achris. i'm hip. went to my dealer when i got my boat a bit ago. ask if i could borrow or rent tools. he said....... No........ that was easy....said he'd sell me some tools though......i ain't got none there, yet. i was just wondering about the quaility of the aftermarket ones. i'm just a backyardboatmech wannabe. but i still gots to have some tools. and like i said. i ain't so far totally impressed with glm. wondering if sierra is any better......maybe it don't make any difference......it don't seem i can go to work w/o some kinda tools....

very wierd. just went up to the kwikie mart to get some beverages. on the way home i was thinking of achris and your original help ya gave me a long time ago with my waterpocket cover. when i had about 1 or 2 posts..it did work out too..........very wierd......good to hear from ya man....... thanks for the bam. i ain't seen that one for a while and didn't have it bookmarked. i'll check it out............

 

[QC]

Re: merc specialty tools

Cool!! An achris sighting ^^^^^^^

 

[achris]

Re: merc specialty tools

Cool!! An achris sighting ^^^^^^^

 

[rodbolt]

Re: merc specialty tools

for just u-joints why do you need a bearing retainer wrench?
if input bearing carrier dissasembly is required for seal replacement you will also need a new pinion nut and tension washer and possibly an inch pounds torque wrench depending on bearing design.
if you have bad parts in the upper case you may need a lot more tools than a shimming tool.

 

[ziggy]

Re: merc specialty tools

if input bearing carrier dissasembly is required for seal replacement you will also need a new pinion nut and tension washer and possibly an inch pounds torque wrench depending on bearing design.

that's what i'm up to. i got the rustys on the ujoints..... i think i should have a look at the seal and brgs i guess. stop me if i'm wrong. i'd just soon not go that far. but understand it to be the correct thing to do for what i'm looking at in the pic. i've not got any parts yet as i don't know what i need to get yet. right now i'm stopped because i think i need to remove that brg retainer to get to the back u-joint. i do have a inch pound torque wrench. though it only goes down to 10 inch pounds....click type. hopeing to get away with clickin down to under 10 and hope its accurate.....w/o looking at the bible. seem like i remember reading needing aound 6....

 

[rodbolt]

Re: merc specialty tools

looking at that picture? yep dissasembly is gonna be required for yoke inspection and seal replacement.
depending on the unit you will either tighten the NEW pinion nutand NEW tension washer to a rolling torque,need a dial inch pound wrench, or a specific torque.
looking at the corrosion in the shift slide pocket you need to inspect the shift cable and the upper shift shaft seal very carefully.
if its not been done before it is possible to reposition a new seal in the bearing carrier. cut a shim sligtly smaller than the seal od, place it inside the carrier bore, press the new seal into the seal carrier. this will insure the seal is square in the carrier bore and move it back about .045" to.060". this can be done once without any interference issues and save ya about 90 dollars or so.

 

[ziggy]

Re: merc specialty tools

depending on the unit you will either tighten the NEW pinion nutand NEW tension washer to a rolling torque,need a dial inch pound wrench, or a specific torque.

the way i'm reading it in service manual #2 is for reassembly is to place the washer concave side faceing the drive gear then the nut. being sure that the preload spacer is centered and don't proturde past the brg. cups. then torque to 85 ft lbs while turning brgs.

looking at the corrosion in the shift slide pocket you need to inspect the shift cable and the upper shift shaft seal very carefully.

yes, that's where most of the rust seemed to start at. the shift shaft, shift shaft lever, shift shaft upper seal (used the new style double seal) shift cable and bellows were replaced. gimble brg. replaced. main bellows replaced. and the nasty a** waterhose too....

if its not been done before it is possible to reposition a new seal in the bearing carrier. cut a shim sligtly smaller than the seal od, place it inside the carrier bore, press the new seal into the seal carrier. this will insure the seal is square in the carrier bore and move it back about .045" to.060". this can be done once without any interference issues and save ya about 90 dollars or so.

interesting idea. this is the oil seal pressed into the oil seal carrier yer talking about?

hopeing i've caught this soon enough to not have horrible rust damage. gear oil looked ok at end of season, no metal particals i could tell. was a little foamy but by next morn the foam looked like highperformance gear lub only.

i need to get a wrench...... guess i'll just order up whatever and get on with it........

 

[JustJason]

Re: merc specialty tools

Quote:
if its not been done before it is possible to reposition a new seal in the bearing carrier. cut a shim sligtly smaller than the seal od, place it inside the carrier bore, press the new seal into the seal carrier. this will insure the seal is square in the carrier bore and move it back about .045" to.060". this can be done once without any interference issues and save ya about 90 dollars or so.

interesting idea. this is the oil seal pressed into the oil seal carrier yer talking about?

hopeing i've caught this soon enough to not have horrible rust damage. gear oil looked ok at end of season, no metal particals i could tell. was a little foamy but by next morn the foam looked like highperformance gear lub only.

i need to get a wrench...... guess i'll just order up whatever and get on with it........

Its the upper seal/yoke. the upper doesn't see much oil as it is and when the drive is run down on lube it is the first to go. what happens is the seal wears a groove in the yoke and the machined surface on the yoke will no longer provide a sealing surface.
If you shim the seal out a couple thou you are pushing the seal up unto the uneffected (and hopefully still good) part of the machined surface of the yoke.
If your doing the job for somebody else, don't mess around and replace the yoke. if your doing the job for yourself, it can be done but you'll want to pressure test the drive afterwards. (which should always be done)
if you don't pressure test it... then the yoke's on you!

 

[rodbolt]

Re: merc specialty tools

like I said, depending on the design of the bearing assy. one design uses the rolling torque method and the other a straight torque.
only way to tell is by looking at it after dissasembly.
the tension washer is marked for the nut side.
the manual will give the procedure for both,if your using a merc manual. dunno about an aftermarket as I have never used one.
pay attention to the manual and you will see where it says to use a hose clamp to keep the two outer races and the spacer inline. if ya dont odds are high the assy wont go back in the case bore.
pay close attention to the spacer and shims behind the aft outer bearing race and carrier bore as well. note the orintation for reassembly

 

[ziggy]

Re: merc specialty tools

if you don't pressure test it... then the yoke's on you!

thanks cj. i will pressure test when done. i think i have a ways to go before i get to it though... yep the jobs for me....time will tell when i see what i got to deal with weather i attempt to move the seal fwd....

the manual will give the procedure for both,if your using a merc manual.

yep, it's a mercruiser manual. though i aint sure if i see the rolling torque method.....when i get there hopefully things will clear up a bit for me. i also don't see the note regaurding the hose clamp in the oem book. i did see a pic of it over on mercstuff.com though.

it says to use a hose clamp to keep the two outer races and the spacer inline. if ya dont odds are high the assy wont go back in the case bore.

i will keep this in mind when i get back to that point....

pay close attention to the spacer and shims behind the aft outer bearing race and carrier bore as well. note the orintation for reassembly

i will try to do this as well.....

like i say this looks like it could get complicated. but i got my trusty oem service manual + my friends at iboats......

a serriea spanner wrench just went on order.......i can't do anything till i see what i got...... three days for delivery alledgedly

thanks for the help guys.........i'm sure i will have questions regaurding the procedure even though i got the bible.......... i'll start a new thread for that......