Re: Cleaning / waxing boat
I am new to the forum and have a couple of questions.
I just bought a 1990 Maxum Cruiser that is need of a good cleaning and waxing.
Thanks for the support and answers
Vinegar and water actually works pretty well with lake water and trailering as it cuts the calcium prior to its "setting up" assuming its used while the boat is still just off the ramp and still wet. It does seem to eliminate "spotting" from mineral deposits, but it of no use as a product that will restore faded gel coat.
Cleaning gel coat that is in relatively good condition, even if faded is pretty straightforward.
First is to get the gel coat glossy by using the least destructive products first - starting with gel coat cleaner ala Collinite 920 liquid gel coat cleaner - a non abrasive chemical cleaner designed to yield a clean surface - and a glossy one. I suspect that your black specs will come off easily with a good non abrasive cleaner. If you need more shine, then the next least damaging process is mild polishes and compounds. I use 3M and you can buy a compounding/polishing kit that contains 3M Boat Compound and finishing polish. They are best applied with a rotary buffer - such as Makita or comparable using wool pads. Wool pads are usually best because you need some heat for polishes to work and wool is pretty safe on a boat because gel coat is thicker than paint on a car. Gel coat is bedded on top of resin which spreads heat rather than generating hot spots as can be done on a car finish. You apply the compound or polish until the surface is shiny covering about 2 -3 square feet at a time at a relatively slow speed as recommended on the product's label. You can check the temperature of the wool pad and surface any time to verify that you have mild heat and not hot surface or pad. As the polish breaks down, you can observe the shine develop and heighten. It is almost impossible to generate enough heat by hand or with an an orbital polisher to activate the polish and thats why gel coat polishing requires a rotary for best results. Concerns about burnishing are minimal on gel coat using good wool pads such as Makita or Maguires. Just check temperature periodically as you work and don't rush. You cover a lot of ground quickly with a rotary even if it seems slow at first.
The last process if polishing fails is wet sanding starting with 500-800 grit using finer and finer sandpaper finishing up with 1500-2000 grit before entering the polishing phase just described. Wet sanding is usually done by hand using a small block since you can easily remove too much gel coat using a machine polisher. The same basic 2-3 square foot section approach is best and going slowly and carefully is important.
The objective of polishing is to get a clean and shiny surface that can then be maintained using a lasting surface protection. Keeping it sealed and shiny depends primarily on a weather proof sealer with good UV protection plus a COVER. LSP's help but a cover is best and keeping your boat covered and out of direct sunlight is always desirable. Its the same reason that garaging a car is best to protect its finish.
There are several good waxes that do a fair to good job. Collinite ranks well, but will not protect you for a whole season in hot climates and must be reapplied. I like Collinite and use it on areas of the boat that I can reach and reapply easily. Better alternatives include the polymer sealants and waxes which CAN last a whole season. Some people Use Klasse, some Zaino, often topped with Collinite hoping to yield a durable UV protecting layer. I suggest Kare 1000P - a polymer "wax" that is all synthetic and sublimates only above 250 degrees. It gives a Florida or Arizona boat a fighting chance since never does the hull get to 250 degrees. Its cheap at around $20 a tin which should do an entire boat with two coats. And it layers well. A couple of coats will get you through a several months and it looks as good as Collinite.
Waxes can easily be applied by hand as they don't require much effort. They can be applied by machine - usually a random orbital polisher which works well. I apply wax by hand on my colored sections and by random orbital on the long flat white sections including the bottom which I get lying on my back under the trailer. The places I can't reach I finish up by hand. Wiping is done by hand and you can final buff your hull and topsides with a rotary polishing wool bonnet if you really want shine. Buffing usually shows the flaws and you can then hit the flaws with an additional coat of wax to make the final finish perfect.
Next year, all you need to do is use the cleaner to get a clean surface and reapply the wax. I usually find some spots that need polishing, but most of the boat is just fine with cleaner only. Its also easy to apply more wax during the season assuming the boat is clean. I usually hit top sides as it needs it based on water beading. Keeping it shiny is a lot easier than getting it there the first time.
Another final choice short of refinishing if chalking has gone too far is a product called Polyglow - I have no personal experience, but it appears to work well on surfaces above the waterline and can be an option for some. Below the waterline, it may be problematical based on user comments that I have read. That aside, people seem pretty happy with it on older boats. A Google search will yield some personal experiences using that product.
Regards from Arizona,
Cole
