Re: Seriously! Marine or Pressure Treated???
sschefer
I just have a question about your statement, not argument, just want it explained.
"Only after the floor blisters sufficiently" I don't think I've ever seen a floor blister in a way that would allow water to penetrate it and it's rare to see a floor blister in the first place. What was this based on? It's true that before any water gets to the wood it needs to get passed the F/G laminate and there are two common ways it get through. The first is a very poor laminate, normally just chop applied unevenly and very resin rich, this forms a week barrier that cracks easily and allows water through. The second points of failure are any holes made in the floor, screws, hatches, seams, etc that aren't sealed correctly.
Gluvit is just epoxy, nothing more, epoxy needs glass to form a long term tough protective layer or it will eventually fail over wood.
The floor in an aluminum boat is fairly easy to replace and can be made even easier if you want, so there's a couple ways to approach it. One way is to do everything possible to prevent rot, which means no wood, my floor is Honeycomb, so rot isn't an issue. There are other products that will work well also, aluminum with truck bed liner works great, without the bed liner aluminum can be very slippery and reflective, so alone it's not the best. You can find other products also.
The other way to do it is use an "OK" grade of plywood, paint it well and then just plan on replacing it when it gets bad, this might be 5 years or 15, you just never know. To make it easy to replace, don't anchor it with as many screws and don't run it under difficult to remove items, you want to be able to pull it out and replace it in couple of hours and for very little money.
Any method in between these works also, some just last longer than others.
Anything that's used over a floor made with wood that can trap water may speed it's demise, this means vinyl, carpet, floor mats, etc.
