1985 Johnson Water Pump Job (Photos) Lots. Verified

[kenmyfam]

Just did a service on my water pump and impeller. Tell tale was a little slow but cooling just fine.
Cleaned out all lines, found that the dish the impeller is housed in had rotated about a 1/4" and was stuck solid. It had squashed out some of the plastic in the pump cover therefore restricting the flow. Cleaned the passages with a good and sharp utility knife. The slot in the dish had moved with it as well (obviously) so I extended it with a small hand grinder to where it should be. Cleaned any stuck rubber from the impeller with scotchbrite and re-assembled.
Result is a good tell tale flow and noticeably more flow from the exhaust while on the muffs.
I have taken several photos of the job from start to finish that I will post as I go along. (I am only allowed 5 at a time i believe)
They show the parts, procedure to a point and tools used to get to everything. Did not take the carb's off but got in with a 1/4" knuckle and a few extensions.
Any questions please let me know.
I hope this will assist others doing a similar thing.
Note, I replaced all o-rings for the heck of it.
We are now looking forward to getting out on the lake (weather permitting)

Photos from left to right here.
#1. Cover off and at each end of the upper hose you see the thermostat housings.
#2. Port side thermostat housing has the white tie wrap on it.
#3. Starboard thermostat housing is directly above the 2 spark plugs.
#4. Showing both thermostat housings. Tell tale hoses join at the bottom starboard (right hand side) of the lower housing.
#5. Shows the tell tale hose junction at the lower motor housing exit. Starboard side.

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: 1985 Johnson Water Pump Job (Photos) Lots.

More.
Anyone else have a piano in their garage ??? Picture #3. Come on over and we will have a sing song !!!
Left to right again.
#1. Random hose photo.
#2. Lower unit removed. See later posts on assembly to see photos on how I uncoupled the linkage. Remove the obvious 4 bolts holding the lower unit in place. Put one of them (easiest one to access with a wrench or socket) back in but do not tighten it (finger tight is enough). You will back it off again at a later stage. Mark trim fin for position with a permanent marker then remove it. You will find another bolt under it. Remove that one as well.
At this point your lower unit is being held in place by the bolt you put back in and the shift rod linkage. Now it is time to remove the bolt holding the shift rod in place. There are a couple of ways to do this.
Some folk prefer to remove the carb's to gain access. I would recommend this if you are servicing the carb's as well.....If not then.....
Using the tools you see in the photos when we get to re-connecting the linkage to gain access to the bolt head from the starboard side. I have the gearshift in neutral when I do this.
Once removed you could really use a helper as you remove the last bolt. The lower unit should slide right out, with very gentle persuasion sometimes. The emphasis is on gentle.
#3. Lower unit removed and sitting clamped in the workmate.
#4. Close up on the water pump assembly before teardown.
#5. Exhaust megaphone. Check to condition of all the sealing surfaces while you have the lower unit off.

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: 1985 Johnson Water Pump Job (Photos) Lots.

More Photos from various angles before further tear down.

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: 1985 Johnson Water Pump Job (Photos) Lots.

Left to Right.

#1. Impeller housing removed. Note the impeller drive key. Check for damage before re-assembly or better still replace while you are in there.
#2, #3 and #4. Different angles of #1.
#5. Impeller housing when removed. Note the rubber skid marks on the inside surfaces.

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: 1985 Johnson Water Pump Job (Photos) Lots.

Left to Right.

#1. More rubber skid marks.
#2. Drive key removed and O ring on it's way up the shaft.
#3. Impeller housing plate removed.
#4. Same thing closer.
#5. Same thing with gasket removed.

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: 1985 Johnson Water Pump Job (Photos) Lots.

Left to right again.

#1. More skid marks and you can see that the steel cup has rotated itself about 1/4" counterclockwise.
#2. Closer view of the same thing.
#3. You can see the restriction for the water exiting to the water tube.
#4. Same as 3.
#5. You can see the rotation and restriction and some nasty skidmarks.

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: 1985 Johnson Water Pump Job (Photos) Lots.

Left to Right again.
#1. You can see some of the plastic of the housing that moved when the cup rotated.
#2. Same thing.
#3,4 and 5. Photos of the impeller that came out.

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: 1985 Johnson Water Pump Job (Photos) Lots.

Left to right.
#1. I cross referenced to a Seloc manual to see how good it was. Result, fairly useful, not as good as an OEM but much better than nothing for this application.
#2 thro #5 are just more shots of the restriction.

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: 1985 Johnson Water Pump Job (Photos) Lots.

#1 to #3. Cup cleaned up with scotchbrite. Small carbide burr used to open up the cup restriction found earlier after it rotated and the squashed plastic areas and channels cleared with my favorite modelling knife.
#4 and #5. Impeller in place, rubber gasket in place and my favorite gasket goop applied.
GENERAL NOTE ON THIS.
I tried the above modifications as an experiment. I had a new water pump assembly on hand in case it did not work out.

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: 1985 Johnson Water Pump Job (Photos) Lots.

Housing plate back on.

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: 1985 Johnson Water Pump Job (Photos) Lots.

Left to Right again.
#1. What I used to get to the shift linkage. 3/8" drive reduced to 1/4" drive with enough extensions to get you clear of the motor and a swivel joint on the end with the socket. Note the length of 1/4" square key stock next to it. This can be used as an alternative drive if you do not have enough reach with the extensions available. I have never attempted this with 3/8" or bigger drives as to me the more room you have the better.
#2. Same again with my old trusty snap on screwdriver. (Never travel without it)
#3. Lower unit back in place. If it does not slide up fairly easily then it is not aligned properly. DO NOT FORCE IT BACK !!! cannot stress this enough. make sure the water tube goes back in place though. This is a good 2 person operation. I never do this alone unless I want to get frustrated or there is nobody else available at the time !!. Smaller motors maybe but not the bigger ones.
#4 and #5. There are the extensions and swivels in action. Put teflon tape around the bolt head to hold it in place in the socket till it is in place.
To align the shift rod with the coupler you are in reality needing a helper again. My son has it down to a fine art now. Using a long blade screwdriver to guide the shift rod into the slot you need to have your helper at the control box. Give them the instruction as to ease it either into forward or reverse as needed. While they do this you will see the linkage move up or down. Co-ordinate this with guiding it over the shift rod until the bolt holes align. Access is on the port side remember and a flashlight can be useful. The linkage is only threaded on the starboard side of it so this can not be done from both sides.
When everything is aligned gently and properly you WILL be in the correct gear. You will only have issues if things are forced or bent.
Put the bolt in on the end of your extensions but do not put the ratchet on it yet. Gently "feel" for the bolt starting in the threads so as not to cross thread or strip the threads.
The more you do this the easier it becomes.

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: 1985 Johnson Water Pump Job (Photos) Lots.

Left to Right.
#1,2 and 3. Showing the extension equipment in place.
#4. Air box off giving access for a screwdriver underneath to help align the shift rod and linkage.
#5. Screwdriver access to help the alignment.

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: 1985 Johnson Water Pump Job (Photos) Lots.

Left to Right again.
#1. Prop back on.
#2. My prop socket (never leave the dock without it) and my taped up hosepipe !!!
#3,4 and 5. Mark the fin before removing it in a couple of places. That way it is in the same orientation when you put it back on.

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: 1985 Johnson Water Pump Job (Photos) Lots.

Left to Right again.
#1 and 2. Fin orientation again
#3. Assembly complete.
#4. Fired up on muffs and all is well. Pumping fine, head temperatures right on. Ah, the great smell of 2 stroke.

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: 1985 Johnson Water Pump Job (Photos) Lots.

Here is the link to the movie. (No Sound)

http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l220/kenmyfam/?action=view&current=MOV02334.flv
Motor is a Johnson 140HP Looper 1985.

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: 1985 Johnson Water Pump Job (Photos) Lots.

Bump for the member who asked about water pump replacement.

 

[tal]

Re: 1985 Johnson Water Pump Job (Photos) Lots.

I use the extension and wobbly too when I drop the foot. Then I tape the bolt to the socket and stick it in.

It seems the only way the cup can move in the housing is if it's worn. Is that he original plastic housing?

I'm curious to see what your tell tale looks like at idle. My 85 120 doesn't pee very strong but it is a thick stream. I just did the water pump since I resealed the gearcase. I actually had to remove the pump a few times to go back into the case and recheck work, but upon assembly each time the pee stream was the same. I'm waiting to check out the video.

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: 1985 Johnson Water Pump Job (Photos) Lots.

I use the extension and wobbly too when I drop the foot. Then I tape the bolt to the socket and stick it in.

It seems the only way the cup can move in the housing is if it's worn. Is that he original plastic housing?

I'm curious to see what your tell tale looks like at idle. My 85 120 doesn't pee very strong but it is a thick stream. I just did the water pump since I resealed the gearcase. I actually had to remove the pump a few times to go back into the case and recheck work, but upon assembly each time the pee stream was the same. I'm waiting to check out the video.

They are not the strongest of streams from what I have seen. The outlet is a larger bore size so less strength of stream. Best thing you can do to be certain is to check the head temperatures. That way you know if enough is getting through. I think the water control valve diverts the flow more to the block as the RPM's rise and takes away from the tell tale stream. (I am prepared to be educated further on this one though) My head temperatures are just fine at all speeds so I know enough is going through and that the stat's are working. Does your tell tale stream increase noticeably as you back off the throttle to idle from cruising RPM ??? and then diminish again ??
I am going to do a short write up on each post with the photos to explain a little more. I will also get around to linking the video as well.

Ken.

 

[tal]

Re: 1985 Johnson Water Pump Job (Photos) Lots.

I think you're right on the water diverter valve. Looks like it's connected to the linkage so as the throttle is increased more flow is increased. You know, I haven't examined the stream that close while coming off plane. Everytime I look back is to make sure the water doesn't roll over the back of my little boat with the big motor.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1985 Johnson Water Pump Job (Photos) Lots.

if you have a question, please post it in the Johnson / Evinrude forum.