Saved From the Garbage Man

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

I also found that the bolt on the lower right of the carb is stripped. I am thinking about drilling it out and re-tapping it.

What are you thoughts on that vs using a helicoil?

I'm not sure which bolt you're talking about. Is it one of the mounting bolts? If so I would re-tap it. The hole is so shallow that I'd worry about the helicoil coming out. I wouldn't base your decision on my opinion though.

Grab a feeler gauge and let's see some pictures of your motor running!

BOB

 

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

Yesterday I received the ignition parts for this motor, so today I was determined to install them after work. I'd never messed with an outboard's magneto before so I was pretty intimidated, but after taking my time on the first side the other half was a breeze. I was lucky that my magneto is exactly the same as the one that Max Wawrzniak III works on in his book Cheap Outboards. I have a feeling my '57 Johnson 10hp will have the same one too.

Here's the magneto off of the motor with all the new parts next to it.

The underside showing the tabs that had to be moved. The throttle handle and the metal "stopper " had to be removed as well to gain acces to the old spark plug wires.

As suggested in the book I did one side at a time using the other as a reference. I cleaned the magneto as I went. 1/2 old - 1/2 new.

Here's the whole assembly cleaned with new coils, spark plug wires, points and condensers. I was also able to reuse the metal tab that identifies the upper spark plug wire too.

I installed the new impeller in the water pump too. It was a real tight fit, but it's in there. Sure hope she pumps good water...

BOB

 

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

Now for a few questions:

This one is pretty dumb, but hey, I want to make sure to do it right. Can I use a regular pair of scissors to cut the new spark plug wires to the length I need?

Once they are the correct length, what's the best way to install the boot on the end? I know, this one's pretty dumb too.

Does anyone know if there is a new replacement recoil spring available for this motor? If so, do you know the part number?The ends on my spring look different than the ones in the parts list. You can't tell in the picture, but mine is rusty, all bent up, and doesn't have much "memory" left. I did measure it and it's about 6' long.

Thanks in advance - BOB

 

[ohm116]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

Heres your recoil spring http://www.boatingsolutions.com/Johnson-Evinrude-OMC-3-35HP-P7273C1846.aspx It looks like it broke on the previous owner and they just bent the ends over and hooked them on the posts. I was able to get one from my SeaKing 12 at a local Evenrude dealer, Bombardier is selling new ones now too, as well as coils and points, they just want $29 for the coils

Your new ignition looks good, just be sure to set the points to 0.020" when you get installed on the engine again, I'm sure you have already read this though The best thing for cutting the wire and stripping them is to get a good pair of wire cutters/strippers, they are a good tool to have around anyway.

Can you measure the diameter of the hole in the center of the impeller, just for reference. Should pump good volumes of water now.

 

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

Thanks ohm116 - I'm looking forward to seeing that video of your 12hp Sea King running.

About the recoil spring, I'm still not sure the one you found is the right one. I looked at where the spring attaches to the starter mechanism and it doesn't look like it would attach correctly. I took some pictures - the rust you see is the residue from the old spring, I will clean it before putting a new spring in.

The center attachment point should work fine since it's a shaft the end of the spring will fit over it (red arrow).

The outside attachment point is a tab though (red arrow) and needs a U shaped attachment like the old spring has. Maybe I can cut the loop off the new spring and bend it into a U shape. What do you think?

I also cleaned off the rust residue the old reed valves left on the intake passages on the manifold. This is what it looked like when I took the carb off:

And what it looks like now:

I got a little carried away with the cleaning and got most of the gunk off the port side. I'm going to clean the rest and give it a shot of silver paint before reassembly.

BOB

 

[ohm116]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

Yeah that is a little different, the post in the pulley well work just fine but the tab is a bit different, they probably went to a post at both ends later on because I can see there being issues with the tab, the post seems more secure.

 

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

The parts manual has the starter spring listed as part #276510. The diagram is pretty crummy though and I can't tell if it's the same one I have. I found a place online that has one that's NOS for $35 +s/h, but again there's no diagram. I'm going to go ahead and buy it and hope for the best.

The same place has the pawl springs, but you'd think they made them out of gold with what they're charging for them. I was able to put new springs in for $1.27 each. Here are some pictures if it helps.

Out of the three original springs only one was good. One was stretched out and the other was missing.

I went to the two BIG BOX hardware stores and after wandering around for a 1/2 hour I found that they had no small springs. I went to a "Mom & Pop" store and they had a pretty good selection. I picked the two that were closest in size. The short one ended up being too thick and was rubbing the spacer. I decided to shorten the skinny ones. (original spring is on top)

Here's the shortened new spring. (original on the bottom)

Here are the three new springs installed. They have a little more tension than the originals, but I don't think it will cause any issues.

Hopefully this will help someone save a few bucks.

BOB

 

[cr2k]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

Reed valves...If you can not find any, try taking the old ones to your local motorcycle parts shop. There you may be able to find some that are either close enough to work or slightly larger that you can modify to fit.

 

[ohm116]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

I think he got a good set with the carb he bought.

 

[asdasc]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

I am working on the exact same motor right now. Here are the pics of the carb I promised. I put it all together, and the carb base seals up ok without the one bolt being too solid, so I will just keep an eye on it.

I put it on the boat and started it up. I have some minor issues to resolve, but it ran!

1) There is a little fuel leak coming out of the fuel tank connector, so I need to replace the compression fittings - easy.

2) It seemed to get hot fairly quickly, so I need to go thru the cooling plumbing to make sure it is hooked up right. (Impeller is good)

3) Re-coil rubs on the flywheel when tightened down. See my other post on this. Might be easy to fix.

I can confirm that I have good spark, though! I can't wait to get more time with it to finalize things, and then start adjusting the carb.

 

[asdasc]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

Hi FreddyRay, is there any way I can talk you into posting page 20? I am looking at page 19, and it refers you to page 20 on about half the parts.

Thanks!

 

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

asdasc - That carb is SPOTLESS!! What did you soak it in? Do you end up re-doping your float?

Also, I think page 20 is the last page that FreddyRay scanned in, it just doesn't have a page number. The different models used different parts numbers so that page is for clarification I think.

BOB

 

[asdasc]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

I sprayed it good with SeaFoam, then wiped it down good. Then I disassembled it and soaked it in a 1 gallon bucket of carb cleaner that I got at the autoparts store. It really does a nice job on Aluminum parts, I have found. Then I sprayed out all the little holes with carb cleaner real good.

One last hint, on motors I am working on and not using every day, I ALWAYS mix some Stabil with the gas for the first run. That way if I have issues and don't get to run it again for months while I look for parts or time, at least I know I won't have to clean the carb again.

I didn't reseal the float, and so far never have on any engines. They seem to work ok. It is easy to get at if ever I have a problem. One thing I do want to do is make a fuel line with a filter in it for initial use to make sure I am not getting trash from the gas tank into the carb. I never have confidence that I cleaned them out enough, no mater what I do to them.

 

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

OK - So I finally received the recoil starter spring...AND...it's the wrong spring! But, I think I can make it work.

Here's the (wrong) recoil spring I received.

It will fit the inside post, but the outside post (red arrow) just won't work.

I'm thinking of filing the post down to accept the loop on the outside mount of the spring. The problem is, once I do this there's no turning back. I don't know if there is such a thing as a Gale purist, but does anyone see a reason why I shouldn't try this? This part cost some $$$, and I'd like to use it if I can.

Bob

 

[ohm116]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

That is the same coil I showed you before. I think if you file that down it might not be strong enough as it is a casting.

 

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

I was thinking the same thing. Do you think I could cut the "eye" off of the spring and bend the end into a "c" shape to accept the post?

BOB

 

[ohm116]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

I think you could probably do that, just don't make it a shape bend if you can manage it as it is spring steel and it would probably crack at the bend. You might also try heating the spot where you are bending it with a torch to help soften it up, just put a vise grip pliers or clamp on the spring, as a heat sink, a couple of inches away so you don't loose the temper on the rest of the spring.

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

You can do the heat and bend thing, just watch the heat...too much will weaken the spring. Use caution installing those springs, they bite when wound up.

 

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

Well, I'm officially addicted!

I recently posted a link to a 5hp Atlas Royal I've been checking out on craigslist in boomer2's thread. The seller was asking for $350 for it originally, but I emailed him an offer of $125 and explained that it could take $100+ to get her back in running condition. With that explanation and a couple of pictures of the one I'm working on he agreed to the price. Turns out he had a sentimental attachment to it and was happy to hear it would be repaired and run. So after work yesterday I drove to Annapolis and here it is:

It has a COOL side cowling that my other one doesn't have. The front has the carburetor needle rich/lean adjustment.

More to follow:

 

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

Continued:

At some point in it's life someone thought it would be a good idea to paint the hood and the top of the side cowls. I can't quite put my finger on the color, but it looks like band-aid mixed with a little pepto bismol pink.

It was originally red like my other one judging by the red over spray inside the cowls. The Royal branding has also been sanded off both sides.

Everything underneath seems to be in it's place.

And here it is next to it's "ready to be reassembled" twin.

Sorry for hijacking my own thread , but I thought you guys would get a kick out of it. Now I'll get back to the original Gale that started this whole sickness! MAN I LOVE THESE THINGS!!

BOB