Stero ground.

dkorzun21

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Mar 22, 2009
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427
where do I ground my stero to the boat? It had a old ground that ran to the fuel over flow out on the inside of the boat.. Plug in the deck worked, with old speaker that I never turned on. Put new speakers in and now cd play flickers on and off then nothing. Went to the back to just test it on the battery and it turn on. What im i doing wrong
 

Bifflefan

Commander
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May 27, 2009
Messages
2,933
Re: Stero ground.

if it a glass boat then you have to go back to the batt.
If its alum, then where ever you want to. as long as the hull is grounded. if not, then the batt.
where are the gauge lights grounded?
 

marlboro180

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Jun 23, 2009
Messages
1,164
Re: Stero ground.

Run a solid ground from the negative side of the battery (black) all the way up to your head unit. Connect neg. side of head unit to there.
 

The Great Escape II

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Mar 9, 2008
Messages
244
Re: Stero ground.

Most boat manufacturers will have bus bars installed in the boat. Typically they look like a row of screws w/nuts with connections from other 12v accessories. That would be a ground connection you can use. Boat grounds are usually a black or yellow wire.
 

dkorzun21

Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 22, 2009
Messages
427
Re: Stero ground.

not sure where the ground is for the gauges. But im just going to run the ground all the way to the battery and then add a swith to power on and off the deck. Does any one know what the best thing is to use to cut the wholes for the speakers. I had a drive with a circle cut out on it not sure what it called and started with that then took the jiz saw to it but it started fraying the would and want that even still have alittle more cutting to do on the one side and the the whole other side. What should I use?
 

dkorzun21

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Mar 22, 2009
Messages
427
Re: Stero ground.

also i used the older front speaker wire that I had for the new speaker the old speaker were from 89 and only 25 watts but the speaker wire was the same size and type that they gave me with the speakers and where already in place. is that ok??? back speaker i need to run wires because there where any in the back.
 

Bifflefan

Commander
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May 27, 2009
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2,933
Re: Stero ground.

jig saw will work. or an air powered saw if you have one. or you can get a really big hole saw at home depot. but that will cost ya.
 

dkorzun21

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Mar 22, 2009
Messages
427
Re: Stero ground.

jig saw will work. or an air powered saw if you have one. or you can get a really big hole saw at home depot. but that will cost ya.

yeah i had a hole saw but it was like 2 inch small and then try cutting with the jig say and the spot it in its tearing up the wood so i just stop plus it was getting dark.
 

marlboro180

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Jun 23, 2009
Messages
1,164
Re: Stero ground.

not sure where the ground is for the gauges. But im just going to run the ground all the way to the battery and then add a swith to power on and off the deck. Does any one know what the best thing is to use to cut the wholes for the speakers. I had a drive with a circle cut out on it not sure what it called and started with that then took the jiz saw to it but it started fraying the would and want that even still have alittle more cutting to do on the one side and the the whole other side. What should I use?

First if you want a switch in the circuit ,the POSITIVE side is the place to put it, not the ground.. The continuous ground is the way to go.

If you are fraying the wood , one of many ways: Tape the area to be cut, trace it out and cut it with a jigsaw. Use a router. Back to jigsaw- blades are also made in a reverse cut so they cut in the down or away motion which virtually eliminates tear out or the "fraying" of the wood on the desired finish side. This works well for a rough cut speaker hole that needs only be rough anyway as the "grill" will cover the rest if it is close.


Don't worry about the exg. wires - 25 W is not that much. Can run that through zip cord.Just make sure the connections are clean. I'd cut an inch off the ends and re- strip to make clean.
 
Last edited:

dkorzun21

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Mar 22, 2009
Messages
427
Re: Stero ground.

yeah def going to add it to the positve side, I will try the tape tommorw on the back side of the wood. Hope fully tommorw I can find someone with a hole saw that will work. My step pops has tons of them but i find some to small and then ones that are huge.
 

dkorzun21

Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 22, 2009
Messages
427
Re: Stero ground.

also it looks like there no glue from the wood to the carpet or very little should i put some on or doesnt really matter? And if so what kind should I use.
 

marlboro180

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Jun 23, 2009
Messages
1,164
Re: Stero ground.

yeah def going to add it to the positve side, I will try the tape tommorw on the back side of the wood. Hope fully tommorw I can find someone with a hole saw that will work. My step pops has tons of them but i find some to small and then ones that are huge.

Problem is now that the hole saw center is now gone. I've been a wood butcher for quite a few years..... The hole saw really wants a center to work w/o wandering. They usually have a 1/4" pilot bit to keep the saw from wandering about.IF the center is gone and one is trying to cut a 5-6" hole, it is very difficult to keep to hole saw from wandering. A jig made from a scrap piece of plywood with the desired hole cut in it , then affixed to the area to be drilled can be used with some success if one is careful. Personally I'd go with a reverse tooth blade in a jig-saw and a steady hand.
 

marlboro180

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Joined
Jun 23, 2009
Messages
1,164
Re: Stero ground.

also it looks like there no glue from the wood to the carpet or very little should i put some on or doesnt really matter? And if so what kind should I use.

Sorry , missed that while typing - we must be on at the same time....

Some 3M super 77 should do the trick. I use it for headliners, carpet etc. REALLY sticky spray goo.:D
 

Knot Waiting

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Jun 23, 2006
Messages
761
Re: Stero ground.

I would not ground the head unit to the battery. There is a big chance you will get feedback or electrical pop through the speakers. I/O's ground out through the outdrive, hence the anodes on the lower unit and gimball. Ground it to a solid and not overly populated spot on the engine block, this will carry the current out through the drive. Or better yet install a Buss bar. I have 3 amps, 2 subs, and 4 crossovers all grounded individually through a buss bar (nothing to the battery ground) then ran out through the block, no problems.
 

Splat

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Jul 20, 2008
Messages
1,366
Re: Stero ground.

Lots of bad information being posted here.

if it a glass boat then you have to go back to the batt.
If its alum, then where ever you want to. as long as the hull is grounded. if not, then the batt.
where are the gauge lights grounded?

NEVER ground to the aluminum hull. You'll cause galvanic corrosion and it will eat away at your hull little by little! You need to have a ground block that run all the way back to the battery.

knot waiting said:
I would not ground the head unit to the battery. There is a big chance you will get feedback or electrical pop through the speakers. I/O's ground out through the outdrive, hence the anodes on the lower unit and gimball. Ground it to a solid and not overly populated spot on the engine block, this will carry the current out through the drive. Or better yet install a Buss bar. I have 3 amps, 2 subs, and 4 crossovers all grounded individually through a buss bar (nothing to the battery ground) then ran out through the block, no problems.

HUH!?!?!?
Nothing grounds out into the water. And just where do you think the engine and the starter are grounded too. There is no electrical connection from the boats electrical system to to the water through the lower unit. The sacrificial anodes are there because when you have dissimilar metals in close quarters in and electrolite(like salt water) you will get electric galvanization, which will eat away at the softer metal. Essentially electroplating. The anodes don't transfer energy or make a connection to anything.

Bill
 

dkorzun21

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 22, 2009
Messages
427
Re: Stero ground.

Lots of bad information being posted here.



NEVER ground to the aluminum hull. You'll cause galvanic corrosion and it will eat away at your hull little by little! You need to have a ground block that run all the way back to the battery.



HUH!?!?!?
Nothing grounds out into the water. And just where do you think the engine and the starter are grounded too. There is no electrical connection from the boats electrical system to to the water through the lower unit. The sacrificial anodes are there because when you have dissimilar metals in close quarters in and electrolite(like salt water) you will get electric galvanization, which will eat away at the softer metal. Essentially electroplating. The anodes don't transfer energy or make a connection to anything.

Bill

To the battery it is thanks for clearing that up..
 
Joined
Aug 6, 2009
Messages
9
Re: Stero ground.

I'm having an issue where my GPS/Fish finder turns off when I start the engine of my Sea Ray 175. The stereo turns off too. I connected the GPS to a hot wire that goes through a fuse directly to the battery and I'm using a buss bar under the dash for the ground. Today I'm planning on connecting a ground wire directly to the battery too but short of that, what should I look at to fix this problem. Thank you for any help you may have.

David
 

Tubingluvr

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 23, 2007
Messages
426
Re: Stero ground.

I have always used a Roto Zip for cutting large round holes, you can also get a circle cutting attachment for it.
 

Big Keepers

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 13, 2007
Messages
293
Re: Stero ground.

I use a Dremel to cut the holes in wood or fiberglass. Make a template out of thin plywood and use that to cut nice perfect circles.
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,581
Re: Stero ground.

I would not ground the head unit to the battery. There is a big chance you will get feedback or electrical pop through the speakers. I/O's ground out through the outdrive, hence the anodes on the lower unit and gimball. Ground it to a solid and not overly populated spot on the engine block, this will carry the current out through the drive. Or better yet install a Buss bar. I have 3 amps, 2 subs, and 4 crossovers all grounded individually through a buss bar (nothing to the battery ground) then ran out through the block, no problems.

LOL. The block is directly connected the battery with an extremely low impedance ground. They are both essentially the same ground. No high frequency ground loops going to happen here.
 
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